I recently swapped everything over to my 2009 carbon kuota kharma frame from my “2007 alloy cannondale synapse”, IT'S ALL ULTEGRA 10 SPEED GROUPO. I’m now getting chain skip, (one tooth each skip) and it happens when I put down the hammer. The only thing I’ve done is I didn’t use a shimano “master link pin”, instead I bought this: “wipperman connex connector link”.

1. Direction of chain - (CHECKED AND CORRECT)
2. Direction of Wipperman master link
3. Check for stiff/kinked links
4. Check for a bent tooth
5. Also turn the crank CCW will most likely identify stiff link more readily.

Thanks for the help guys!!
Marty

Is it an old chain on a new cassette or new chain on old cassette? Either of those combinations can cause skipping under power due to wear.

Also it may be that some Ultegra and Dura Ace chains are directional, so make sure if yours is that you install it in the proper direction.

Edited to add: I always use a quick link to connect my chains too but usually the KMC link. The Wipperman link may also be directional, check it closely to see if that's so.

Check the rear derailleur hanger alignment.

Thanks I will add that to my check list. (It is a different hanger obviously and was on the frame when I bought it 2 weeks ago).

hold the bicycle still and rotate the cranks counter clock wise ... is there a teeth that jumps every time that it hits the cassette? this might be a case of a crooked chain link. Make sure the connection pin is done correctly and bend the chain in a Z-formation to ease it up?

Try spinning the cranks CCW again and maybe that will work.

Will do, thanks for the help!!

Did you put the chain on backwards?

This is the one thing I thought to check and it's correct. (Writing facing out). Thanks!!

For clarification purposes... chains should have the writing face out right?

My shimano chain came with a sticker that said chains should have writing facing out.

According to this the Shimano writing does face out. Not sure about the other manufacturers.

That only works if he's on the drive side of the bike...

There are actually four possible chain configurations. If you label the chain faces A and B and the ends 1 and 2, then you can have facing outward and pointing forward when on top of the run A1, A2, B1 or B2. Whether any chains require only one of these four configurations to work properly I have no idea. I know KMCs don't have any directional preference.

Did you happen to have the cassette off or swap wheels? I ask because I recently bought some wheels and swapped my cassette to and from several sets before making a decision. During that process I figured out that some 11 speed wheels require an additional spacer for use with a 10 speed cassette in addition to the one spacer that came with the wheels. With one of the spacers missing the cassette was just loose enough to give me the sensation of a skip every so often, especially under power. Seems strange because all of the literature you read on 10 speed cassettes on 11 speed hubs say only one spacer is required but I needed two. May not be your issue, but you could simply see if your cassette has any play in it by rocking the large cog? Maybe the cassette locknut needs tightening?

Wow that must of took some time to figure out, yikes!! Yes I have to sets of wheels, "Dura Ace C50's" and "Shimano". Dura Ace has an 11-28 cassette, Shimano 11-25. I added 2 extra links to the chain to accommodate the 11-28 cassette.

Are you still having the problem?

+1

check the derailleur alignment.
I recently replaced the cassette and chain (10s Ultegra) and had a chain skip on exactly 1 gear (small chain ring and 17tooth cog). Turned out to be derailleur alignment.

I had a brand new frame with the hanger bent 1 or 2 mm, couldn't even see it with the naked eye. Just that little bit throws off the whole tune. You can check it if you have a spare wheel with a threaded axle end, it screws right into the hole for the rd then you measure the distance between the two rims at the top and bottom. Or a shop can check it in about one minute.

I've seen this happen in the lowest cog due to the limit screw being off just a hair.