Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Best way to raise handlebars for more comfort?

Search
Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Best way to raise handlebars for more comfort?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-27-17, 02:18 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 852
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 471 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Best way to raise handlebars for more comfort?

I think that my Giant TCX Cyclocross bike would probably be more comfortable for longer rides if the handlebars were a bit higher.

Currently there is about a 6cm drop, and I've gone crazy playing around with saddle position to try to take some pressure off my hands so that I feel more neutrally balanced in the saddle.

I know that moving the saddle isn't the recommended way to solve reach issues, and in any case, I think it's more a question of height rather than reach.

On my other bike (Trek Crossrip) I only have about 15-20mm handlebar drop, and I feel much more comfortable - I can easily take the weight of my hands without tipping forward.

So, I'm looking was ways to raise the bars. I've already used all of the spacers under the stem, so from my limited research, I think this leaves either:

1) A more acutely angled stem, say 17 degrees or greater (flipped upwards), maybe slightly longer than my current one (which is only 90mm). This could gain about 30mm in height.

2) A stem riser that fits onto my current steerer tube and gives a vertical height increase (probably 40-80mm, depending on model). However, I'm not sure if this is going to work with a composite steerer.

Which of these two is likely to be the best option for me? (or something else entirely!)

Thanks for any advice,

John.
johngwheeler is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 04:20 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times in 222 Posts
Originally Posted by johngwheeler
I think that my Giant TCX Cyclocross bike would probably be more comfortable for longer rides if the handlebars were a bit higher. ... I think this leaves either:

1) A more acutely angled stem, say 17 degrees or greater (flipped upwards), maybe slightly longer than my current one (which is only 90mm). This could gain about 30mm in height.

A riser stem, is a simple fix - if it gives you enough height. They're common enough.


Originally Posted by johngwheeler
2) A stem riser that fits onto my current steerer tube and gives a vertical height increase (probably 40-80mm, depending on model). However, I'm not sure if this is going to work with a composite steerer.
On a Composite steerer, you can't use the quill-type steerer tube extenders.
There are no immediate issues with fitting a wraparound, clamp-type extender.


However, I've seen forks with a listed max spacer stack height.
If your fork has one of those, a wraparound steerer tube extender will void any warranties immediately.
How much of an issue going past the max stack recommendation actually is I have no idea.
Might work just fine. Might not.


3rd option is to replace the fork with an uncut fork w/o spacer stack limitations.
dabac is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 08:34 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 62

Bikes: 2015 Giant Defy Advanced 2, 1999 Trek 800

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by johngwheeler
1) A more acutely angled stem, say 17 degrees or greater (flipped upwards), maybe slightly longer than my current one (which is only 90mm). This could gain about 30mm in height.
Last year I swapped the stock 6* stem with a 17* stem on my Giant Defy and it eliminated my back and shoulder pain immediately. It's worth a shot.
JamesB722 is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 08:58 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,114

Bikes: 2006 Raleigh Cadent 2.0, 2016 Trek Emonda ALR 6, 2015 Propel Advanced SL 2, 2000 K2 Zed SE

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 115 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bigger positive angle should need a shorter stem, otherwise you're increasing reach. Your shoulders move back as you sit up. Longer stem would pull your shoulders forward and really not solve anything; you're just causing other wrist issues.
kc0bbq is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 09:02 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times in 36 Posts
Riser stem is the standard solution.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 09:58 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803

Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times in 118 Posts
Yup, riser stem is the least expensive and adjustable option. There are calculators you can use, plug in the two #s and see how high and forward/backward a specific stem takes you. That is what I just did on two diff bikes...used the calculator and bought new stems. They are much more comfy now.
Chandne is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 10:22 AM
  #7  
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Sachse, Texas
Posts: 28

Bikes: Aventon Mataro, Orbea Avant H50, Orbea Orca M30

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
you can always increase the amount or height of your stem spacers.
Wheeljack23 is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 01:52 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times in 222 Posts
Originally Posted by Wheeljack23
you can always increase the amount or height of your stem spacers.
No.
The stem has to clamp around the steerer tube. So the length of the steerer decides how many spacers you can use at a particular fork.
And the OP has already used up all adjustability offered by the spacers.
dabac is offline  
Old 06-27-17, 06:13 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 852
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 471 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by kc0bbq
Bigger positive angle should need a shorter stem, otherwise you're increasing reach. Your shoulders move back as you sit up. Longer stem would pull your shoulders forward and really not solve anything; you're just causing other wrist issues.
Good point, but I may need a bit more reach in any case as my top-tube feels a bit short to me (it's about 20mm shorter than my other bike, which also has a 90mm stem, but feels better).

My main concern was hand pressure rather than back pain, and I this would seem to depend on overall weight distribution on the bike, which may be improved by stretching out more. This obviously depends on the individual's body (e.g. leg to torso length ratio etc.), so I may need a bit of experimentation.

I'll be going in for a professional bike bit before I commit to any drastic changes. My gut feeling is that I'd like my hands to a bit higher *and* further away, in which case a slightly longer riser stem might be the solution I'm looking for.

Thanks!

John.
johngwheeler is offline  
Old 06-28-17, 09:55 AM
  #10  
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Sachse, Texas
Posts: 28

Bikes: Aventon Mataro, Orbea Avant H50, Orbea Orca M30

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dabac
No.
The stem has to clamp around the steerer tube. So the length of the steerer decides how many spacers you can use at a particular fork.
And the OP has already used up all adjustability offered by the spacers.

Ah I see. I think I skipped that part where he used all his spacers.
Wheeljack23 is offline  
Old 06-28-17, 10:04 AM
  #11  
pan y agua
 
merlinextraligh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,303

Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1447 Post(s)
Liked 727 Times in 372 Posts
Originally Posted by Chandne
Yup, riser stem is the least expensive and adjustable option. There are calculators you can use, plug in the two #s and see how high and forward/backward a specific stem takes you. That is what I just did on two diff bikes...used the calculator and bought new stems. They are much more comfy now.


__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
merlinextraligh is offline  
Old 06-28-17, 04:46 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 852
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 471 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Thanks for the chart!
johngwheeler is offline  
Old 06-28-17, 06:50 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 852
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 471 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Chandne
Yup, riser stem is the least expensive and adjustable option. There are calculators you can use, plug in the two #s and see how high and forward/backward a specific stem takes you. That is what I just did on two diff bikes...used the calculator and bought new stems. They are much more comfy now.

Originally Posted by JamesB722
Last year I swapped the stock 6* stem with a 17* stem on my Giant Defy and it eliminated my back and shoulder pain immediately. It's worth a shot.
And how did the higher bars affect the handling? Did you find the steering became lighter because there is less weight over the front wheel?
johngwheeler is offline  
Old 06-28-17, 07:05 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 62

Bikes: 2015 Giant Defy Advanced 2, 1999 Trek 800

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by johngwheeler
And how did the higher bars affect the handling? Did you find the steering became lighter because there is less weight over the front wheel?
I'm such a recreational rider that I never paid close attention to the handling. I can't say that I noticed a difference in that regard because I was so happy over the pain relief.
JamesB722 is offline  
Old 06-28-17, 07:10 PM
  #15  
Back In The Saddle
 
High Fist Shin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,318

Bikes: N+1

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 5 Posts
Perhaps riser bars? Specialized has them as standard equipment on the new Roubaix and IIRC they provide 25mm of rise. However, this would not be the cheap option. Specialized Hover handlebars.



-Shin
__________________
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
High Fist Shin is offline  
Old 06-28-17, 07:54 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803

Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times in 118 Posts
Originally Posted by johngwheeler
And how did the higher bars affect the handling? Did you find the steering became lighter because there is less weight over the front wheel?

I can hardly tell but I also use short (ish) stem on my mountain bike that are 50mm-60mm. I descent quite fast and hit 40-50 on some twisty canyon roads and the short stem doesn't't affect my descending at all. I stay with the fastest riders who are a lot younger. Climbing really steep slow sections...I do notice a touch more wandering but 90% of our steep stuff is under 10% so only above that do I notice the slight wandering...short slow sections. If I stand and climb, the wandering goes away.
Chandne is offline  
Old 06-29-17, 12:04 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 852
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 471 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by High Fist Shin
Perhaps riser bars? Specialized has them as standard equipment on the new Roubaix and IIRC they provide 25mm of rise. However, this would not be the cheap option. Specialized Hover handlebars.



-Shin
That's an interesting option that I hadn't thought of!

I'm going for a bike fit this afternoon, so let's see what the shop recommends....
johngwheeler is offline  
Old 06-29-17, 08:32 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
msquared22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 66

Bikes: Salsa Vaya X9

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
In addition to the chart, this link is really useful: Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
msquared22 is offline  
Old 06-29-17, 05:40 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sin City, Nevada
Posts: 2,886

Bikes: Catrike 700, Greenspeed GTO trike, , Linear LWB recumbent, Haluzak Horizon SWB recumbent, Balance 450 MTB, Cannondale SM800 Beast of the East

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 523 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 229 Times in 181 Posts
I hadn't seen this before but you can buy an adjustable stem that allows you to fiddle with the angle until you get one that works best. $14.13 postpaid from overseas
from a US seller for $17.20 postpaid MTB Mountain Bike Handlebar Stem Riser Bicycle Downhill Stem Aluminum CNC CS319 | eBay.
VegasTriker is offline  
Old 06-30-17, 07:24 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 852
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 471 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Just had a bike fit - interesting result!

So, before buying new stems, riser bars etc. , I went for my first professional bike fit. The results were interesting.

It was a pretty low-tech affair; just a few measurements to get my inseam, torso & arm length, a couple of laser measurements of my knee tracking, and fair bit of eye-balling from an evidently experienced fitter.

I explained my main concerns (a) uncomfortable hand pressure (b) saddle discomfort and the corrective actions were not what I expected.

1) raised my saddle by a lot! about 25mm. I initially thought this was going to be excessive, but my inseam measurement was actually about 30mm higher than I had estimated by myself (the fitter used a jig to get a more accurate measurement with a horizontal bar pulled up firmly under my crotch).

Instead of suggesting a longer stem, he move my saddle forward about 20mm to match his calculated reach value, which I thought would make the cockpit too short, but it actually felt OK. I had heard that moving the saddle back could (depending on your body type) reduce hand pressure, but in my case getting further forward and higher up had the desired result, which I didn't expect.

The bars were rotated upwards about 5 degrees and the hoods angled inwards, which reduced pressure on my thumbs. There was a 2mm spacer on top of the stem, which was put below, so the total height increase can't have been a lot more than 5mm in total.

However, the overall result felt a lot more comfortable! Sure, I feel higher up on an already tall bike (60mm BB drop),but the hand pressure issue has gone away and my saddle comfort is noticeably better.

I've only ridden about 30km after the fit, but it feels good.

I would not have made these adjustments myself, so I consider the paid fit to have been worth it. A longer ride will tell, and they were quite happy to make further adjustments as needed.

Last edited by johngwheeler; 06-30-17 at 07:56 AM.
johngwheeler is offline  
Old 06-30-17, 07:38 AM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803

Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times in 118 Posts
I had a 3D fit done and it helped a lot...no doubt. I eventually did move the saddle back a bit and dropped the stem 5mm. See if this works. My fit was done with that 3D video imaging system plus a thin pad that analyzed the pressure on diff parts of the saddle. It was a pretty comprehensive fit ($250) but done by one fit guy plus the director of the sport med facility...I think he was just there and free, so he helped out. Ride this ay for 200 miles and/or some long rides 40+ miles to see how it works out and see what your body is telling you.
Chandne is offline  
Old 06-30-17, 01:03 PM
  #22  
Back In The Saddle
 
High Fist Shin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,318

Bikes: N+1

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by johngwheeler
So, before buying new stems, riser bars etc. , I went for my first professional bike fit. The results were interesting.

It was a pretty low-tech affair; just a few measurements to get my inseam, torso & arm length, a couple of laser measurements of my knee tracking, and fair bit of eye-balling from an evidently experienced fitter.

I explained my main concerns (a) uncomfortable hand pressure (b) saddle discomfort and the corrective actions were not what I expected.

1) raised my saddle by a lot! about 25mm. I initially thought this was going to be excessive, but my inseam measurement was actually about 30mm higher than I had estimated by myself (the fitter used a jig to get a more accurate measurement with a horizontal bar pulled up firmly under my crotch).

Instead of suggesting a longer stem, he move my saddle forward about 20mm to match his calculated reach value, which I thought would make the cockpit too short, but it actually felt OK. I had heard that moving the saddle back could (depending on your body type) reduce hand pressure, but in my case getting further forward and higher up had the desired result, which I didn't expect.

The bars were rotated upwards about 5 degrees and the hoods angled inwards, which reduced pressure on my thumbs. There was a 2mm spacer on top of the stem, which was put below, so the total height increase can't have been a lot more than 5mm in total.

However, the overall result felt a lot more comfortable! Sure, I feel higher up on an already tall bike (60mm BB drop),but the hand pressure issue has gone away and my saddle comfort is noticeably better.

I've only ridden about 30km after the fit, but it feels good.

I would not have made these adjustments myself, so I consider the paid fit to have been worth it. A longer ride will tell, and they were quite happy to make further adjustments as needed.
I'm glad the fit worked so well for you. When I got my new Roubaix, a fitting was included. I had similar changes to you. Saddle moved up and forward, and my clip less cleats needed alignment. It was a great adjustment and I am very comfortable for long periods in the saddle. I highly recommend a fitting to anyone that is having comfort issues.

-Shin
__________________
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin

Last edited by High Fist Shin; 07-01-17 at 12:33 PM.
High Fist Shin is offline  
Old 07-01-17, 11:39 AM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,737
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
The best bar for comfort riding is a mustache bar.

It puts the brake/shifter set in a more natural position and allows you to ride upright. You'll need to add a stem riser and an adjustable stem to fine tune the fit to a position that works for your build and riding style.

When you get older and your back is less flexible, this is the usual setup for comfort riding on your road bike.
NormanF is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
johngwheeler
Road Cycling
12
09-01-17 05:46 PM
Trailroaster
Fitting Your Bike
3
09-07-15 07:14 PM
dengidog
Bicycle Mechanics
54
01-05-15 01:08 AM
lineinthewater
Bicycle Mechanics
7
04-27-13 07:32 PM
corwin1968
Bicycle Mechanics
7
07-27-12 09:17 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.