Best way to raise handlebars for more comfort?
#1
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Best way to raise handlebars for more comfort?
I think that my Giant TCX Cyclocross bike would probably be more comfortable for longer rides if the handlebars were a bit higher.
Currently there is about a 6cm drop, and I've gone crazy playing around with saddle position to try to take some pressure off my hands so that I feel more neutrally balanced in the saddle.
I know that moving the saddle isn't the recommended way to solve reach issues, and in any case, I think it's more a question of height rather than reach.
On my other bike (Trek Crossrip) I only have about 15-20mm handlebar drop, and I feel much more comfortable - I can easily take the weight of my hands without tipping forward.
So, I'm looking was ways to raise the bars. I've already used all of the spacers under the stem, so from my limited research, I think this leaves either:
1) A more acutely angled stem, say 17 degrees or greater (flipped upwards), maybe slightly longer than my current one (which is only 90mm). This could gain about 30mm in height.
2) A stem riser that fits onto my current steerer tube and gives a vertical height increase (probably 40-80mm, depending on model). However, I'm not sure if this is going to work with a composite steerer.
Which of these two is likely to be the best option for me? (or something else entirely!)
Thanks for any advice,
John.
Currently there is about a 6cm drop, and I've gone crazy playing around with saddle position to try to take some pressure off my hands so that I feel more neutrally balanced in the saddle.
I know that moving the saddle isn't the recommended way to solve reach issues, and in any case, I think it's more a question of height rather than reach.
On my other bike (Trek Crossrip) I only have about 15-20mm handlebar drop, and I feel much more comfortable - I can easily take the weight of my hands without tipping forward.
So, I'm looking was ways to raise the bars. I've already used all of the spacers under the stem, so from my limited research, I think this leaves either:
1) A more acutely angled stem, say 17 degrees or greater (flipped upwards), maybe slightly longer than my current one (which is only 90mm). This could gain about 30mm in height.
2) A stem riser that fits onto my current steerer tube and gives a vertical height increase (probably 40-80mm, depending on model). However, I'm not sure if this is going to work with a composite steerer.
Which of these two is likely to be the best option for me? (or something else entirely!)
Thanks for any advice,
John.
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I think that my Giant TCX Cyclocross bike would probably be more comfortable for longer rides if the handlebars were a bit higher. ... I think this leaves either:
1) A more acutely angled stem, say 17 degrees or greater (flipped upwards), maybe slightly longer than my current one (which is only 90mm). This could gain about 30mm in height.
1) A more acutely angled stem, say 17 degrees or greater (flipped upwards), maybe slightly longer than my current one (which is only 90mm). This could gain about 30mm in height.
A riser stem, is a simple fix - if it gives you enough height. They're common enough.
There are no immediate issues with fitting a wraparound, clamp-type extender.
However, I've seen forks with a listed max spacer stack height.
If your fork has one of those, a wraparound steerer tube extender will void any warranties immediately.
How much of an issue going past the max stack recommendation actually is I have no idea.
Might work just fine. Might not.
3rd option is to replace the fork with an uncut fork w/o spacer stack limitations.
#3
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Last year I swapped the stock 6* stem with a 17* stem on my Giant Defy and it eliminated my back and shoulder pain immediately. It's worth a shot.
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Bigger positive angle should need a shorter stem, otherwise you're increasing reach. Your shoulders move back as you sit up. Longer stem would pull your shoulders forward and really not solve anything; you're just causing other wrist issues.
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Yup, riser stem is the least expensive and adjustable option. There are calculators you can use, plug in the two #s and see how high and forward/backward a specific stem takes you. That is what I just did on two diff bikes...used the calculator and bought new stems. They are much more comfy now.
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you can always increase the amount or height of your stem spacers.
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No.
The stem has to clamp around the steerer tube. So the length of the steerer decides how many spacers you can use at a particular fork.
And the OP has already used up all adjustability offered by the spacers.
The stem has to clamp around the steerer tube. So the length of the steerer decides how many spacers you can use at a particular fork.
And the OP has already used up all adjustability offered by the spacers.
#9
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My main concern was hand pressure rather than back pain, and I this would seem to depend on overall weight distribution on the bike, which may be improved by stretching out more. This obviously depends on the individual's body (e.g. leg to torso length ratio etc.), so I may need a bit of experimentation.
I'll be going in for a professional bike bit before I commit to any drastic changes. My gut feeling is that I'd like my hands to a bit higher *and* further away, in which case a slightly longer riser stem might be the solution I'm looking for.
Thanks!
John.
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Ah I see. I think I skipped that part where he used all his spacers.
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Yup, riser stem is the least expensive and adjustable option. There are calculators you can use, plug in the two #s and see how high and forward/backward a specific stem takes you. That is what I just did on two diff bikes...used the calculator and bought new stems. They are much more comfy now.
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#13
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Yup, riser stem is the least expensive and adjustable option. There are calculators you can use, plug in the two #s and see how high and forward/backward a specific stem takes you. That is what I just did on two diff bikes...used the calculator and bought new stems. They are much more comfy now.
And how did the higher bars affect the handling? Did you find the steering became lighter because there is less weight over the front wheel?
#14
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I'm such a recreational rider that I never paid close attention to the handling. I can't say that I noticed a difference in that regard because I was so happy over the pain relief.
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Perhaps riser bars? Specialized has them as standard equipment on the new Roubaix and IIRC they provide 25mm of rise. However, this would not be the cheap option. Specialized Hover handlebars.
-Shin
-Shin
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I can hardly tell but I also use short (ish) stem on my mountain bike that are 50mm-60mm. I descent quite fast and hit 40-50 on some twisty canyon roads and the short stem doesn't't affect my descending at all. I stay with the fastest riders who are a lot younger. Climbing really steep slow sections...I do notice a touch more wandering but 90% of our steep stuff is under 10% so only above that do I notice the slight wandering...short slow sections. If I stand and climb, the wandering goes away.
#17
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I'm going for a bike fit this afternoon, so let's see what the shop recommends....
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In addition to the chart, this link is really useful: Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
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I hadn't seen this before but you can buy an adjustable stem that allows you to fiddle with the angle until you get one that works best. $14.13 postpaid from overseas from a US seller for $17.20 postpaid MTB Mountain Bike Handlebar Stem Riser Bicycle Downhill Stem Aluminum CNC CS319 | eBay.
#20
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Just had a bike fit - interesting result!
So, before buying new stems, riser bars etc. , I went for my first professional bike fit. The results were interesting.
It was a pretty low-tech affair; just a few measurements to get my inseam, torso & arm length, a couple of laser measurements of my knee tracking, and fair bit of eye-balling from an evidently experienced fitter.
I explained my main concerns (a) uncomfortable hand pressure (b) saddle discomfort and the corrective actions were not what I expected.
1) raised my saddle by a lot! about 25mm. I initially thought this was going to be excessive, but my inseam measurement was actually about 30mm higher than I had estimated by myself (the fitter used a jig to get a more accurate measurement with a horizontal bar pulled up firmly under my crotch).
Instead of suggesting a longer stem, he move my saddle forward about 20mm to match his calculated reach value, which I thought would make the cockpit too short, but it actually felt OK. I had heard that moving the saddle back could (depending on your body type) reduce hand pressure, but in my case getting further forward and higher up had the desired result, which I didn't expect.
The bars were rotated upwards about 5 degrees and the hoods angled inwards, which reduced pressure on my thumbs. There was a 2mm spacer on top of the stem, which was put below, so the total height increase can't have been a lot more than 5mm in total.
However, the overall result felt a lot more comfortable! Sure, I feel higher up on an already tall bike (60mm BB drop),but the hand pressure issue has gone away and my saddle comfort is noticeably better.
I've only ridden about 30km after the fit, but it feels good.
I would not have made these adjustments myself, so I consider the paid fit to have been worth it. A longer ride will tell, and they were quite happy to make further adjustments as needed.
It was a pretty low-tech affair; just a few measurements to get my inseam, torso & arm length, a couple of laser measurements of my knee tracking, and fair bit of eye-balling from an evidently experienced fitter.
I explained my main concerns (a) uncomfortable hand pressure (b) saddle discomfort and the corrective actions were not what I expected.
1) raised my saddle by a lot! about 25mm. I initially thought this was going to be excessive, but my inseam measurement was actually about 30mm higher than I had estimated by myself (the fitter used a jig to get a more accurate measurement with a horizontal bar pulled up firmly under my crotch).
Instead of suggesting a longer stem, he move my saddle forward about 20mm to match his calculated reach value, which I thought would make the cockpit too short, but it actually felt OK. I had heard that moving the saddle back could (depending on your body type) reduce hand pressure, but in my case getting further forward and higher up had the desired result, which I didn't expect.
The bars were rotated upwards about 5 degrees and the hoods angled inwards, which reduced pressure on my thumbs. There was a 2mm spacer on top of the stem, which was put below, so the total height increase can't have been a lot more than 5mm in total.
However, the overall result felt a lot more comfortable! Sure, I feel higher up on an already tall bike (60mm BB drop),but the hand pressure issue has gone away and my saddle comfort is noticeably better.
I've only ridden about 30km after the fit, but it feels good.
I would not have made these adjustments myself, so I consider the paid fit to have been worth it. A longer ride will tell, and they were quite happy to make further adjustments as needed.
Last edited by johngwheeler; 06-30-17 at 07:56 AM.
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I had a 3D fit done and it helped a lot...no doubt. I eventually did move the saddle back a bit and dropped the stem 5mm. See if this works. My fit was done with that 3D video imaging system plus a thin pad that analyzed the pressure on diff parts of the saddle. It was a pretty comprehensive fit ($250) but done by one fit guy plus the director of the sport med facility...I think he was just there and free, so he helped out. Ride this ay for 200 miles and/or some long rides 40+ miles to see how it works out and see what your body is telling you.
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So, before buying new stems, riser bars etc. , I went for my first professional bike fit. The results were interesting.
It was a pretty low-tech affair; just a few measurements to get my inseam, torso & arm length, a couple of laser measurements of my knee tracking, and fair bit of eye-balling from an evidently experienced fitter.
I explained my main concerns (a) uncomfortable hand pressure (b) saddle discomfort and the corrective actions were not what I expected.
1) raised my saddle by a lot! about 25mm. I initially thought this was going to be excessive, but my inseam measurement was actually about 30mm higher than I had estimated by myself (the fitter used a jig to get a more accurate measurement with a horizontal bar pulled up firmly under my crotch).
Instead of suggesting a longer stem, he move my saddle forward about 20mm to match his calculated reach value, which I thought would make the cockpit too short, but it actually felt OK. I had heard that moving the saddle back could (depending on your body type) reduce hand pressure, but in my case getting further forward and higher up had the desired result, which I didn't expect.
The bars were rotated upwards about 5 degrees and the hoods angled inwards, which reduced pressure on my thumbs. There was a 2mm spacer on top of the stem, which was put below, so the total height increase can't have been a lot more than 5mm in total.
However, the overall result felt a lot more comfortable! Sure, I feel higher up on an already tall bike (60mm BB drop),but the hand pressure issue has gone away and my saddle comfort is noticeably better.
I've only ridden about 30km after the fit, but it feels good.
I would not have made these adjustments myself, so I consider the paid fit to have been worth it. A longer ride will tell, and they were quite happy to make further adjustments as needed.
It was a pretty low-tech affair; just a few measurements to get my inseam, torso & arm length, a couple of laser measurements of my knee tracking, and fair bit of eye-balling from an evidently experienced fitter.
I explained my main concerns (a) uncomfortable hand pressure (b) saddle discomfort and the corrective actions were not what I expected.
1) raised my saddle by a lot! about 25mm. I initially thought this was going to be excessive, but my inseam measurement was actually about 30mm higher than I had estimated by myself (the fitter used a jig to get a more accurate measurement with a horizontal bar pulled up firmly under my crotch).
Instead of suggesting a longer stem, he move my saddle forward about 20mm to match his calculated reach value, which I thought would make the cockpit too short, but it actually felt OK. I had heard that moving the saddle back could (depending on your body type) reduce hand pressure, but in my case getting further forward and higher up had the desired result, which I didn't expect.
The bars were rotated upwards about 5 degrees and the hoods angled inwards, which reduced pressure on my thumbs. There was a 2mm spacer on top of the stem, which was put below, so the total height increase can't have been a lot more than 5mm in total.
However, the overall result felt a lot more comfortable! Sure, I feel higher up on an already tall bike (60mm BB drop),but the hand pressure issue has gone away and my saddle comfort is noticeably better.
I've only ridden about 30km after the fit, but it feels good.
I would not have made these adjustments myself, so I consider the paid fit to have been worth it. A longer ride will tell, and they were quite happy to make further adjustments as needed.
-Shin
__________________
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
Last edited by High Fist Shin; 07-01-17 at 12:33 PM.
#23
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The best bar for comfort riding is a mustache bar.
It puts the brake/shifter set in a more natural position and allows you to ride upright. You'll need to add a stem riser and an adjustable stem to fine tune the fit to a position that works for your build and riding style.
When you get older and your back is less flexible, this is the usual setup for comfort riding on your road bike.
It puts the brake/shifter set in a more natural position and allows you to ride upright. You'll need to add a stem riser and an adjustable stem to fine tune the fit to a position that works for your build and riding style.
When you get older and your back is less flexible, this is the usual setup for comfort riding on your road bike.