Longer stem or setback seatpost?
#126
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 853
Likes: 5
From: Sydney, Australia
i didn't read this whole thing, but here's my take....background; i'm 6'1" and i've got short femurs...kinda long torso and normal arms.
i rode 20,000+ miles on 56.5cm top tube bikes with a 100mm stem, maybe an inch or so of drop and setback seatposts. i got a specialized BG fit done few years ago and i was moved to a zero setback post and a 120mm stem with 10cm of drop. the difference was night and day. rode with my usual group the day after my dot and several people commented on my riding. not only was i more efficient, but i felt altogether stronger. it didn't feel like i was pedaling through mud anymore. i was way too far behind the spindles before and although i was maintaining the same reach, i was just moved 20mm farther forward. it moved my weight forward and made me pedal straight down, instead of pushing "forward" on the pedals as well as down.
i've ridden about 17,000 miles in this setup...rides from around the corner and up to 110 miles and i've not had any major issues. sometimes i'm more
comfortable than others, but usually i'm good to go.
i have recently moved up to 58cm top tubes and 110mm stems, but keep the zero setback seatposts.
i don't understand why anyone would want to, or it's comfortable to pedal behind the pedals instead of straight down.
i rode 20,000+ miles on 56.5cm top tube bikes with a 100mm stem, maybe an inch or so of drop and setback seatposts. i got a specialized BG fit done few years ago and i was moved to a zero setback post and a 120mm stem with 10cm of drop. the difference was night and day. rode with my usual group the day after my dot and several people commented on my riding. not only was i more efficient, but i felt altogether stronger. it didn't feel like i was pedaling through mud anymore. i was way too far behind the spindles before and although i was maintaining the same reach, i was just moved 20mm farther forward. it moved my weight forward and made me pedal straight down, instead of pushing "forward" on the pedals as well as down.
i've ridden about 17,000 miles in this setup...rides from around the corner and up to 110 miles and i've not had any major issues. sometimes i'm more
comfortable than others, but usually i'm good to go.
i have recently moved up to 58cm top tubes and 110mm stems, but keep the zero setback seatposts.
i don't understand why anyone would want to, or it's comfortable to pedal behind the pedals instead of straight down.
What is your saddle set-back now with the zero setback post?
One reason I quite liked a more set-back position (c. 8cm setback - I'm 177cm tall with 87cm inseam) was exactly the "push forward and down" on the pedals that you describe. I found this keeps my position on the back of the saddle to prevent me from sliding forward onto the narrow part of the saddle.
How do you avoid this, or does it not bother you?
On my Fizik Antares saddle, there seems to be a very narrow range of positions where it is comfortable. If I slide forward more than about 1-2cm, then I would really suffer after 50 miles or so. Maybe it's saddle design and angle that's the cause of the problem? I moved my saddle forward 15mm (to a 6cm setback) and find I do have to shuffle back every so often , particularly if I take the pressure of my hands for a bit when riding on the flat.
#127
That's an interesting report, and no-one could argue you haven't spent enough time testing your fit @17,000-20,000 miles!
What is your saddle set-back now with the zero setback post?
One reason I quite liked a more set-back position (c. 8cm setback - I'm 177cm tall with 87cm inseam) was exactly the "push forward and down" on the pedals that you describe. I found this keeps my position on the back of the saddle to prevent me from sliding forward onto the narrow part of the saddle.
How do you avoid this, or does it not bother you?
On my Fizik Antares saddle, there seems to be a very narrow range of positions where it is comfortable. If I slide forward more than about 1-2cm, then I would really suffer after 50 miles or so. Maybe it's saddle design and angle that's the cause of the problem? I moved my saddle forward 15mm (to a 6cm setback) and find I do have to shuffle back every so often , particularly if I take the pressure of my hands for a bit when riding on the flat.
What is your saddle set-back now with the zero setback post?
One reason I quite liked a more set-back position (c. 8cm setback - I'm 177cm tall with 87cm inseam) was exactly the "push forward and down" on the pedals that you describe. I found this keeps my position on the back of the saddle to prevent me from sliding forward onto the narrow part of the saddle.
How do you avoid this, or does it not bother you?
On my Fizik Antares saddle, there seems to be a very narrow range of positions where it is comfortable. If I slide forward more than about 1-2cm, then I would really suffer after 50 miles or so. Maybe it's saddle design and angle that's the cause of the problem? I moved my saddle forward 15mm (to a 6cm setback) and find I do have to shuffle back every so often , particularly if I take the pressure of my hands for a bit when riding on the flat.
#128
One reason I quite liked a more set-back position (c. 8cm setback - I'm 177cm tall with 87cm inseam) was exactly the "push forward and down" on the pedals that you describe. I found this keeps my position on the back of the saddle to prevent me from sliding forward onto the narrow part of the saddle.
How do you avoid this, or does it not bother you?
On my Fizik Antares saddle, there seems to be a very narrow range of positions where it is comfortable. If I slide forward more than about 1-2cm, then I would really suffer after 50 miles or so. Maybe it's saddle design and angle that's the cause of the problem? I moved my saddle forward 15mm (to a 6cm setback) and find I do have to shuffle back every so often , particularly if I take the pressure of my hands for a bit when riding on the flat.
#130
Want to have a bit more space between my butt and handlebars. The options are longer stem and setback seatpost. What are theoretical advantages/disadvantages of both options?
When pushing, I instinctively try to move back in the saddle, so seatpost seems to be better option for me. Current setup - Trek Emonda ALR 4 54cm with 90mm stem.
P.S. I already moved the saddle all the way back.
When pushing, I instinctively try to move back in the saddle, so seatpost seems to be better option for me. Current setup - Trek Emonda ALR 4 54cm with 90mm stem.
P.S. I already moved the saddle all the way back.
#131
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 853
Likes: 5
From: Sydney, Australia
From the LeMond table, for my inseam (87cm), I should be using 4-6cm, which seems a bit short. I have no idea if these measurements still apply to modern bikes and cycling techniques.
#133
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 28,682
Likes: 63
From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
This point is actually more relevant than the weight distribution, and is what I understand by "balance" - a neutral position that you can maintain without effort and various levels of exertion and body posture. It doesn't necessarily mean that weight is equally distributed between bars, saddle & pedals in some perfect equilibrium. What we're trying to achieve is a stable and comfortable cycling position that *allows* for shifts in weight distribution without upsetting the position or compromising comfort.
My whole investigation into this subject has been based on trying to get comfortable primarily, whilst maintaining reasonable performance.
My whole investigation into this subject has been based on trying to get comfortable primarily, whilst maintaining reasonable performance.
#134
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 87
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From: New York, NY
Bikes: Trek 1.2 2011 => Trek Emonda ALR 4 2017
#136
Pull the seat back and lean forward more, you might have more weight on your hands. Straighten your arms instead, sure you'll have less weight there. Yet how much your core works to hold up the torso weight makes more difference in weight on the hands than the saddle position.
The saddle is also a pivot point, and in that respect reach and torso lean are the operative factors (rather than saddle setback dictating).
I tend to agree with [MENTION=183557]rpenmanparker[/MENTION]'s point: if you're talking about positioning for weight balance, you have to begin with the actual desired weight distribution. If there is no quantification for that, for whatever type of fit is desired, it means that physical weight balance is not what's really being adjusted. Which is fine if a fitter is just using a simplification to explain what he's doing - it doesn't really matter if the explanations are wrong as long as the result is acceptable. But it sure can lead DIY fitters down the wrong path when they take these incorrect physical descriptions literally.
#137
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,495
Likes: 771
From: Chicago North Shore
Bikes: frankenbike based on MKM frame
My experience is that reach is independent of seat position. What I didn't say in my previous post is that I could keep myself from sliding forward by moving the seat forward, but I still ended up with perineal numbness when riding.
I eventually bought a Selle SMP TRK. With this saddle, I've ridden 46 miles without numbness (hey, I'm 73 and lucky I can ride 10). If I move my seat backward or forward, I keep moving my butt forward or backward, although that's partly - maybe largely - a function of the saddle design. If I tilt the saddle farther down, I feel as if I'm going to fall off; if I tilt it farther up, I get numb within 10 miles. If I move the saddle up or down, my knees hurt. Since any change in my saddle position increases my discomfort, I'm not about to change it.
But my hands hurt. When I set my bike up in the late '80s, the reco was for the 'bars to obscure the hub when on the drops. That is still what I (don't) see. Competitive Cyclist's tool says 56 cm TT, and that's what I've got.
I think the first sentence may have it backwards. I know the 2nd is problematic - at least for me, straight arms put more stress on hands, arms, and shoulders and more weight on hands.
I'm hoping that's true, and my experience is that, as long as I'm not too tired, the stronger my core is, the more comfortable I am on the bike and the less weight is on my hands.
I do find that pedaling all out seems to take all weight off my hands. I can't pedal all out for long, but I think pedaling effort does effect comfort.
I eventually bought a Selle SMP TRK. With this saddle, I've ridden 46 miles without numbness (hey, I'm 73 and lucky I can ride 10). If I move my seat backward or forward, I keep moving my butt forward or backward, although that's partly - maybe largely - a function of the saddle design. If I tilt the saddle farther down, I feel as if I'm going to fall off; if I tilt it farther up, I get numb within 10 miles. If I move the saddle up or down, my knees hurt. Since any change in my saddle position increases my discomfort, I'm not about to change it.
But my hands hurt. When I set my bike up in the late '80s, the reco was for the 'bars to obscure the hub when on the drops. That is still what I (don't) see. Competitive Cyclist's tool says 56 cm TT, and that's what I've got.
Pull the seat back and lean forward more, you might have more weight on your hands. Straighten your arms instead, sure you'll have less weight there.
Yet how much your core works to hold up the torso weight makes more difference in weight on the hands than the saddle position.
I do find that pedaling all out seems to take all weight off my hands. I can't pedal all out for long, but I think pedaling effort does effect comfort.
#138
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Likes: 235
The bolded part people tend to overlook when talking about "balance" vs setback.
Pull the seat back and lean forward more, you might have more weight on your hands. Straighten your arms instead, sure you'll have less weight there. Yet how much your core works to hold up the torso weight makes more difference in weight on the hands than the saddle position.
The saddle is also a pivot point, and in that respect reach and torso lean are the operative factors (rather than saddle setback dictating).
I tend to agree with [MENTION=183557]rpenmanparker[/MENTION]'s point: if you're talking about positioning for weight balance, you have to begin with the actual desired weight distribution. If there is no quantification for that, for whatever type of fit is desired, it means that physical weight balance is not what's really being adjusted. Which is fine if a fitter is just using a simplification to explain what he's doing - it doesn't really matter if the explanations are wrong as long as the result is acceptable. But it sure can lead DIY fitters down the wrong path when they take these incorrect physical descriptions literally.
Pull the seat back and lean forward more, you might have more weight on your hands. Straighten your arms instead, sure you'll have less weight there. Yet how much your core works to hold up the torso weight makes more difference in weight on the hands than the saddle position.
The saddle is also a pivot point, and in that respect reach and torso lean are the operative factors (rather than saddle setback dictating).
I tend to agree with [MENTION=183557]rpenmanparker[/MENTION]'s point: if you're talking about positioning for weight balance, you have to begin with the actual desired weight distribution. If there is no quantification for that, for whatever type of fit is desired, it means that physical weight balance is not what's really being adjusted. Which is fine if a fitter is just using a simplification to explain what he's doing - it doesn't really matter if the explanations are wrong as long as the result is acceptable. But it sure can lead DIY fitters down the wrong path when they take these incorrect physical descriptions literally.
#139
I'm hoping that's true, and my experience is that, as long as I'm not too tired, the stronger my core is, the more comfortable I am on the bike and the less weight is on my hands.
I do find that pedaling all out seems to take all weight off my hands. I can't pedal all out for long, but I think pedaling effort does effect comfort.
I do find that pedaling all out seems to take all weight off my hands. I can't pedal all out for long, but I think pedaling effort does effect comfort.
#140
so...i did a 53 mile ride today and REALLY paid attention to my setback/stem length/leg relationship to KOPS and my thoughts are this:
the zero setback post seems to be perfect for my riding. it puts me in a neutral position when i'm sitting and spinning. when i'm starting to grind, i found that i push myself back in the saddle some...kind of against the tail of the cambium saddle i use. when i get into the "time trial" position, i'm on the nose of the saddle, my hips are rocked backward, my elbows are bent and i'm in the drops or with my hands resting on the outward most part of the hoods. i feel like if i had any more setback, i wouldn't be able to achieve these 3 positions as comfortably and naturally as i'm able to now.
until this thread popped up, i never really gave my fit any thought. after the BG fit, the noticeable difference in performance and efficiency is all i needed to become a believer. i definitely don't wanna start over thinking it, but i must admit this thread has given me some food for thought.
the zero setback post seems to be perfect for my riding. it puts me in a neutral position when i'm sitting and spinning. when i'm starting to grind, i found that i push myself back in the saddle some...kind of against the tail of the cambium saddle i use. when i get into the "time trial" position, i'm on the nose of the saddle, my hips are rocked backward, my elbows are bent and i'm in the drops or with my hands resting on the outward most part of the hoods. i feel like if i had any more setback, i wouldn't be able to achieve these 3 positions as comfortably and naturally as i'm able to now.
until this thread popped up, i never really gave my fit any thought. after the BG fit, the noticeable difference in performance and efficiency is all i needed to become a believer. i definitely don't wanna start over thinking it, but i must admit this thread has given me some food for thought.
#141
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 853
Likes: 5
From: Sydney, Australia
I did one on-line bike fit (don't remember which) and it suggests 11-12cm setback - just seemed crazy (and impossible to achieve on my bike), so I ignored it.
I would say 6-8cm is probably normal for my inseam (c. 87cm / 34"), even though the LeMond table I saw suggested 4-6cm. UCI limit is 5cm I understand, shorter riders would have a problem with LeMond's measurements.
#142
Was overtaken by, & caught a ride with, a fast group yesterday. These guy & gals hammer.
Anyway, I noticed two guys that had mid-foot cleats. rpenmanparker may claim BS, but it is a real thing.
One was pretty tall w/ big feet, & it looked like he would have to watch out for toe overlap with the ground!
Wasn't able to pick up all the details (@ 25 mph) but they had straight seatposts and pretty sure not KOPS.
Anyway, I noticed two guys that had mid-foot cleats. rpenmanparker may claim BS, but it is a real thing.
One was pretty tall w/ big feet, & it looked like he would have to watch out for toe overlap with the ground!
Wasn't able to pick up all the details (@ 25 mph) but they had straight seatposts and pretty sure not KOPS.
#143
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 28,682
Likes: 63
From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Was overtaken by, & caught a ride with, a fast group yesterday. These guy & gals hammer.
Anyway, I noticed two guys that had mid-foot cleats. rpenmanparker may claim BS, but it is a real thing.
One was pretty tall w/ big feet, & it looked like he would have to watch out for toe overlap with the ground!
Wasn't able to pick up all the details (@ 25 mph) but they had straight seatposts and pretty sure not KOPS.
Anyway, I noticed two guys that had mid-foot cleats. rpenmanparker may claim BS, but it is a real thing.
One was pretty tall w/ big feet, & it looked like he would have to watch out for toe overlap with the ground!
Wasn't able to pick up all the details (@ 25 mph) but they had straight seatposts and pretty sure not KOPS.
#144
At the risk of nit-picking,
"I read it. It is total BS. How do you unweight the torso by moving the saddle? The whole thing is absurd."
AFAIK, Hogg is one of the main investigators of mid-food cleat positioning, which does not use KOPS.





