What road bike do you have?
06-21-11, 07:12 AM
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Since the late Sheldon Brown has much more cred in this department than I do, here we go:
Originally Posted by Sheldon
Angle
The angle of the saddle should be pretty close to horizontal. Some men prefer the front to be slightly higher than the rear; some women prefer the front slightly lower than the rear, but extreme angles should be avoided.
If the saddle is nosed up too far, it is likely to increase pressure on the soft tissues, and cause all sorts of problems.
If the saddle is tilted down in front, the rider will tend to slide forward onto the narrower part of the saddle. Women who are riding on saddles that were designed for men frequently tilt their saddles down. This will relieve some of the discomfort from the saddle itself, but creates new problems: The downward slope of the saddle causes the rider to tend to slide forward, and this can only be counteracted by pressure on the hands. Thus, poorly-angled saddles often are the cause of wrist, shoulder and neck problems, due to carrying too much of the rider's weight on the hands.
The angle of the saddle should be pretty close to horizontal. Some men prefer the front to be slightly higher than the rear; some women prefer the front slightly lower than the rear, but extreme angles should be avoided.
If the saddle is nosed up too far, it is likely to increase pressure on the soft tissues, and cause all sorts of problems.
If the saddle is tilted down in front, the rider will tend to slide forward onto the narrower part of the saddle. Women who are riding on saddles that were designed for men frequently tilt their saddles down. This will relieve some of the discomfort from the saddle itself, but creates new problems: The downward slope of the saddle causes the rider to tend to slide forward, and this can only be counteracted by pressure on the hands. Thus, poorly-angled saddles often are the cause of wrist, shoulder and neck problems, due to carrying too much of the rider's weight on the hands.
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06-21-11, 07:17 AM
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My Bike....with new Dura Ace 7900/ Ultegra 6700mix.
All the components that came off will be used to build a beater/crit bike....
All the components that came off will be used to build a beater/crit bike....
06-21-11, 08:19 AM
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Yeah, but there's no reason for the angle to be that extreme. I'm not a pro, but if you have your saddle tilted that far there's something wrong with the fit, your saddle choice, or both. That position will actually force you to either 1. slide forward on your saddle, mashing on the taint MORE, or 2. force you to waste energy pushing your body uphill to the sweet spot of the saddle. Might be time to treat yourself to a pro fit.
Since the late Sheldon Brown has much more cred in this department than I do, here we go:
Since the late Sheldon Brown has much more cred in this department than I do, here we go:
06-21-11, 08:23 AM
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There lies your problem...
06-21-11, 08:35 AM
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RedLeg that crankset burns my eyes. Otherwise nice SLC.
06-21-11, 09:25 AM
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06-21-11, 10:16 AM
shedding fat
4 out of 6 bikes in this thread need their steerer tube cut. I see this more and more, especially here in BF, and I am beginning to wonder if it some kinds of new trend. Now, I know some people take pictures and post them right after they build the bike up before they are completely fitted,but the frequency in which I am seeing this makes me wonder. Same going on locally too.
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06-21-11, 11:22 AM
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mine isnt cut because i dont know if thats where i want to keep it or not. since im a beginner i probably will want to upgrade my aluminum bike in a couple of years so i might just never cut it for resell sakes.
06-21-11, 11:36 AM
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
I think this is getting to be a bigger part of the uncut-steerer thing. As much as we tout "you must get the right fit!" around here, people are loathe to cut a steerer too much just in case a future buyer finds it to be too low.
I've cut mine, but only down to the spacers I have available, and with a 1 cm spacer on top of the stem -- just as Easton recommends for their carbon steerer-equipped forks. Some people might think that it's uncut because it isn't slammed down to the headset, but it's still only 2 cm above that.
I've cut mine, but only down to the spacers I have available, and with a 1 cm spacer on top of the stem -- just as Easton recommends for their carbon steerer-equipped forks. Some people might think that it's uncut because it isn't slammed down to the headset, but it's still only 2 cm above that.
06-21-11, 10:03 PM
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Nice, but if you remove just one decal it would probably be <15 pounds. ;-)
06-21-11, 10:30 PM
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Lol...how did I know that was coming?
Believe it or not...all the decals are clear coated. I would have loved to pull some of the wheel logos off.
Believe it or not...all the decals are clear coated. I would have loved to pull some of the wheel logos off.
06-22-11, 12:17 AM
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I <3 Robots, looks nice. I feel like the stem should be black with all-black-bartape on the bars, and the seatpost should be white with a white saddle. It's just the frame colors that tell me that, it would be horribly against the fred-code 
06-22-11, 01:22 AM
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The white post and saddle would be overkill to me. It would remind me of the color matched everything cars of the 80's. I like the contrast of the black and white. 
06-22-11, 01:27 AM
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06-22-11, 04:16 AM
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06-22-11, 08:09 AM
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06-22-11, 10:23 AM
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And about those decals, my brother felt the same way with his 2010 EC90s; so they look like this now.
06-22-11, 11:27 AM
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06-22-11, 11:34 AM
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Those aren't ghost decals; acetone + elbow grease got it done. Once you get a section of the decals beginning to peel, its much easier afterwards. Just continue to rub acetone over the corresponding letters to weaken the clear coat and peel away.
