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Originally Posted by celticfrost
(Post 14053859)
Worst Campy hood placement ever.
NOT |
Originally Posted by Cleave
(Post 14041493)
Hi,
Latest views of my training bike... http://www.pbase.com/image/142399191/original.jpg ...and race rig... http://www.pbase.com/cleavel/image/1...0/original.jpg |
Originally Posted by UCIMBZ
(Post 14053874)
I didn't enter this as a contestant but the problem is the handlebar rotation. Hoods are fine. Point well taken though.
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Originally Posted by echotraveler
(Post 14050280)
Heres a really NOT pic of my bike....one of this days...one of this days...i already choose the white door.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77...r/IMG_1906.jpg |
Originally Posted by runningDoc
(Post 14052328)
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Seeing all these beautiful pictures of road bikes makes me feel guilty I put a topeak rack on the back of mine. :( Oh well, hopefully I can get another bike in the future and make it my pretty one.
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Originally Posted by runningDoc
(Post 14052328)
Can a commuter bike be hot?
disclaimer: this was my first bike build...I had a fun day installing and building this one up. I swaped out the 2012 Tiagra (now 10 speed :) ) triple to a SRAM Apex group. I've opted to go with the infamous compact crank + 11-32t cassette... you never know...(dirt, touring, travel, cyclocross.. ect..ect..). http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7245/6...c40752e9_c.jpg |
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Originally Posted by cubex
(Post 14054232)
But otherwise nice bike. |
lol thanks its a one room dorm in college sorry about the mess and thanks for the compliment
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I would also cut your steerer. If it's carbon then you should cut it so the topcap can provide support for the stem to clamp to. You can risk it cracking like that.
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Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
(Post 14054303)
I would also cut your steerer. If it's carbon then you should cut it so the topcap can provide support for the stem to clamp to. You can risk it cracking like that.
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a few updates for the tecno:
keo 2 maz pedals veloflex pave tires eurus wheels (swapped from other bike) http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...4-03183621.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...4-03183701.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...4-03183714.jpg |
Hot.
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Originally Posted by rjones28
(Post 14054763)
Hot.
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Originally Posted by MajorMantra
(Post 14054590)
Not so. It's excessive spacers below the stem that are risky because it creates a length of effectively unsupported steerer. You can have as many as you want on top - the top cap is irrelevant to stem support.
From the specialized manual for carbon steerers: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i....48%2520PM.png |
Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
(Post 14054909)
Excessive spacers below is bad as well. Cannondale specifically states that no spacers are to be installed above the stem for the reason I explained above. Not sure if all manufacturers have the same setup for the topcap.
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its preferable to keep a few spacers above on a carbon steerer.
edit: maybe just one rather. |
I keep a small 5mm spacer above mine too. Just the large amount in the picture I was talking about can be unsafe if the stem is clamping on an unsupported section. If proper torque is used then there prob is not going to be any issues.
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I'm testing where I like the stem will cut once ready
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sounds good.
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Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
(Post 14054909)
From the specialized manual for carbon steerers:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i....48%2520PM.png |
Originally Posted by UCIMBZ
(Post 14054935)
No matter what they say, but for safety's sake, the only way for the stem to 100% engage the steerer tube is to put some kind of a spacer on top. The ones that have no spacers on top, the stem sticks out of the steerer tube. Even at a small amount, it is not a 100% engagement.
Originally Posted by adriano
(Post 14054945)
its preferable to keep a few spacers above on a carbon steerer.
edit: maybe just one rather. |
Originally Posted by chaulky61
(Post 14056479)
Flip it.
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