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-   -   Hot r Not (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/452315-hot-r-not.html)

mpath 06-25-12 08:39 AM


Originally Posted by vladvm (Post 14401379)

Not.

cubex 06-26-12 11:24 AM

time to play again got my position dialed in don't mind the tester stem :(

sorry about the pictures still learning my new camera


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7263/7...651f150b65.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7...f84d2c57f2.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr

Rob13 06-26-12 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by x43x (Post 14394127)
I had the rear hub changed out and upgraded to the Smart 4 rim at the same time, so it's technically different since I posted it last year. ;)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/...nRideReady.jpg

Sorry, im not diggin it :(

Rob13 06-26-12 11:50 AM

Hot!!! Down to the Nokon cable housing, measure twice cut once cables, over $100 for a set.

Rob13 06-26-12 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by ilovecycling (Post 14393327)
Figured I'd post a pic while the bar tape was still fresh. :) I installed the Deda Newton shallow-drop bars and thought I'd try something different w/ the white tape. I also de-stickered the wheels because I wasn't a big fan of the massive white Campagnolo stickers that basically turned the black rims white. The frame lettering and bar tape is already enough white IMO. I'd really like to get some 303s on this thing, but that isn't happening any time soon.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...whitetape1.jpg

Red Hot!

ravenmore 06-26-12 12:26 PM


Originally Posted by Rob13 (Post 14407488)
Hot!!! Down to the Nokon cable housing, measure twice cut once cables, over $100 for a set.

I like alligator I-link cables as you can add/remove links at any time. Never tried Nokon though.

Ghost Ryder 06-26-12 04:53 PM


Originally Posted by cubex (Post 14407348)
time to play again got my position dialed in don't mind the tester stem :(

sorry about the pictures still learning my new camera


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7263/7...651f150b65.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7...f84d2c57f2.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr

Hot!

echotraveler 06-26-12 05:04 PM


Originally Posted by cubex (Post 14407348)
time to play again got my position dialed in don't mind the tester stem :(

sorry about the pictures still learning my new camera


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7263/7...651f150b65.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7...f84d2c57f2.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr

im gonna say NOT for now, take a pic during the morning
now tell us more about this frame...

oldbobcat 06-26-12 08:38 PM


Originally Posted by EnzoRWD (Post 14377184)

Lovely bike, but the prep needs work. Namely, the gap in the bar wrap at the brake levers, the angle of the handlebar (tilt so the drops are nearly horizontal, then move control levers higher), and, of course, the black seat post.

By the way, your bar will stay wrapped longer if you go in the other direction, from inside to outside as you wind up the bar. Practice the double figure-8 move around the control levers assiduously.

milkbaby 06-27-12 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by x43x (Post 14395481)
The seatbag is a tool roll by Mopha. They made a one-off for me sans leather. While no bike looks better with seatbag, I got tired of carrying everything in my pockets. I wanted to keep it classy though. I like it. It fits a multitool, levers, tube, and mini-pump.

Story and more pics here: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...light=hampsten

And start to finish build thread here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/fo...p?f=10&t=79547

Cool, thanks for the info... was thinking that bag looked a lot like Rapha's tool bag, nice to see there is a similar alternative to the Rapha that is not made in China... and is cheaper!

The engraving on the seatstay bridge is ultracool!

NWS Alpine 06-27-12 02:16 PM


Originally Posted by echotraveler (Post 14409067)
im gonna say NOT for now, take a pic during the morning
now tell us more about this frame...

looks like one of the open mold chinese frames. Forgot the model but this model is popular over on RBR.

cubex 06-28-12 02:29 AM

^ basically

my friends company G.S. Astuto is a direct rep for a factory and the frames are basically open mold frames that he tweaked a little bit. The prices are really nice and it rides really well. Compared to a lot of the bikes we sell at the shop I work at its a really good value and perfect for me as a college student.

UCIMBZ 06-28-12 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by cubex (Post 14407348)
time to play again got my position dialed in don't mind the tester stem :(

sorry about the pictures still learning my new camera


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7263/7...651f150b65.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7...f84d2c57f2.jpg
G.S. Astuto VC2 Carbon by cub_x, on Flickr

Short stem and short seatpost means too large of a frame. Like the parts don't like the setup. Not hot.

island rider 06-28-12 10:22 AM


Originally Posted by UCIMBZ (Post 14416369)
Short stem and short seatpost means too large of a frame. Like the parts don't like the setup. Not hot.

I understand that your preference is for more steapost exposed, but does that really mean it's too large? If you were going to build a custom frame with that geometry isn't this what you might come out with given the various numbers involved? Once you have the headtube set, and you know the buyer wants it slammed, the only way to expose more seatpost would result in changing all of the angles and therefore the geometry, right?
(Top tube sloped, seat-stays shorter, etc.)

UCIMBZ 06-28-12 10:56 AM


Originally Posted by island rider (Post 14416434)
I understand that your preference is for more steapost exposed, but does that really mean it's too large? If you were going to build a custom frame with that geometry isn't this what you might come out with given the various numbers involved? Once you have the headtube set, and you know the buyer wants it slammed, the only way to expose more seatpost would result in changing all of the angles and therefore the geometry, right?
(Top tube sloped, seat-stays shorter, etc.)

You want to pick your frames for top tube length. This one does have a sloping top tube. In a sloping top tube geometry you want to see more seat tube showing unless you have very short legs compare to your torso which in that case you expect to see a short post but a long stem if the frame was selected carefully. The way this frame is set up tells me he could have gone with a smaller frame which is lighter and he could enjoy the benefits of a a longer stem a seatpost.

RJM 06-28-12 11:02 AM

What are the benefits of a longer seatpost and stem?

eja_ bottecchia 06-28-12 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by Rob13 (Post 14407488)
Hot!!! Down to the Nokon cable housing, measure twice cut once cables, over $100 for a set.

Thanks. I am enjoying riding her. Last night, however, I broke a spoke and had to hobble back home with a wobbly front tire. :(

island rider 06-28-12 11:20 AM


Originally Posted by RJM (Post 14416654)
What are the benefits of a longer seatpost and stem?

^ I was about to type this. I wish I could remember where I read it, but I thought I read somewhere that stem and seatpost inches are among the heavier inches on a carbon bike. Meaning that a bigger frame with less stem and seatpost would actually be lighter.

As for picking a frame for top tube length, I always thought that was just because it was the only measurement on the bike that was individual to the rider and yet fixed on the frame. The only way to adjust it was through the stem and you are limited in the lengths you can use there. Specifically, you can get longer or shorter stems, seatposts, bars, cranks, different angles on stems, etc. But you could not change that top tube length.

WhyFi 06-28-12 11:26 AM

Short stems can get twitchy.

island rider 06-28-12 11:31 AM


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 14416783)
Short stems can get twitchy.

Makes sense.

RJM 06-28-12 11:39 AM

I would think it has to be a pretty short stem coupled with a narrow bar though to introduce some serious twitchy-ness. I have a 7cm stem on my steel bike and it is a bit twitchy, but I also use a handlebar that is not wide, like a 41cm I believe. The only time it gets to me, twichyness that is, is when I am huffing and puffing up a steep incline and I can feel the front start to wander.

UCIMBZ 06-28-12 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by RJM (Post 14416654)
What are the benefits of a longer seatpost and stem?

By that I meant a wider seat post range of movement. It offers the luxury and more range to adjust reach and drop. On a smaller frame with more seat post showing the rider has the ability to place his/her body behind the bb where optimally you want to be. On a larger frame for your size you have to slam the seat down and virtually sit on top of the bb.

Yaniel 06-28-12 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by UCIMBZ (Post 14417069)
By that I meant a wider seat post range of movement. It offers the luxury and more range to adjust reach and drop. On a smaller frame with more seat post showing the rider has the ability to place his/her body behind the bb where optimally you want to be. On a larger frame for your size you have to slam the seat down and virtually sit on top of the bb.

Assuming the seat tube angle is the same, I don't see how the size of the frame will affect where he sits relative to the BB since it'll be the same distance from saddle to BB on any size bike. If the seattube angle changes, then it can affect fore/aft positioning, but that doesn't always change between sizes.

You put the seat at the height your legs dictate, same with fore/aft. You don't adjust saddle height for drop nor reach.

cubex 06-28-12 06:15 PM

thats not a big frame btw I'm only 5'6 and I have short legs and arms and get limited to what I can afford and buy my next frame is being custom made for this reason sadly its not a road bike.

c_mack9 06-29-12 06:32 AM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-12-19_933.jpg


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