Top 5 Elements of a Comfortable Ride
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 332
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Top 5 Elements of a Comfortable Ride
What are the elements to a comfortable ride?
I'm a new guy, looking for some tips on how to make my ride more comfortable. I've already got a bike, and I'm not looking to race, just ride (varying distances).
What are say, the top 5 most important? Thanks for the input.
I'm a new guy, looking for some tips on how to make my ride more comfortable. I've already got a bike, and I'm not looking to race, just ride (varying distances).
What are say, the top 5 most important? Thanks for the input.
#3
Carpe Diem
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 13,149
Likes: 1
From: MABRA
Bikes: 2007 CAAD9; 2014 CAADX; PedalForce CG1
Chamois.
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"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
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"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
ΛΧΑ ΔΞ179 - 15% off your first Hammer Nutrition order!
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Saint Paul, MN
Bikes: Ridley Damocles, early 80's Zullo, too many more
> A saddle that works for you
> Saddle fore-aft tilt: too much and your boys won't like it; too little and your hands will get numb
> Overall fit (legs, arm reach)
> A shoe/pedal combination that won't produce hot spots
> Go very slow and avoid hills so your legs never ache.
#6
Fat Guy in a Little Coat
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: Virgina
Bikes: Clark-Kent Europa Ti Road; Motobecane Fantom Cyclocross
IMHO, the most important things are:
1.) Chamois (get a good pair of cycling shorts)
2.) Fore-aft position of saddle - When crank at 90 degrees, should drop a plumb-bob from below kneecap and should land right over ball of your foot
3.) Stem length - not too cramped or not too streached out on the bike, should be able to ride comfortably with elbows slightly bent (no straightarms!)
4.) Handlebar height -- too upright is poor for aerodynamics, too low is tough on your lower back
5.) Cleat position -- under the ball of your foot, or slightly behind it.
6.) Saddle -- No saddle is one size fits all, you may try afew before finding a favorite. Don't blame all discomfort on your saddle until you have #1-5 above setup properly.
1.) Chamois (get a good pair of cycling shorts)
2.) Fore-aft position of saddle - When crank at 90 degrees, should drop a plumb-bob from below kneecap and should land right over ball of your foot
3.) Stem length - not too cramped or not too streached out on the bike, should be able to ride comfortably with elbows slightly bent (no straightarms!)
4.) Handlebar height -- too upright is poor for aerodynamics, too low is tough on your lower back
5.) Cleat position -- under the ball of your foot, or slightly behind it.
6.) Saddle -- No saddle is one size fits all, you may try afew before finding a favorite. Don't blame all discomfort on your saddle until you have #1-5 above setup properly.
Last edited by Nickshu; 09-02-08 at 12:20 PM.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Minneapolis, MN
The bike is an old steel Moto with well upgraded components, I've got just under an inch of extra standover height and it seems to fit well... I haven't dialed anything in though. Is it worth getting professionally fit?
#9
Certifiable Bike "Expert"

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 1
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the #1 factor - miles... Even with everything else dialed in, you're going to be uncomfortable until you get several hundred miles of riding experience.
And if you're riding enough, you can pretty much ride whatever (within reason) and be comfortable.
And if you're riding enough, you can pretty much ride whatever (within reason) and be comfortable.
#10
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
Likes: 1,235
From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Bike fits
Seat fits
Shoes fit
Shorts fit
Seat fits
Shoes fit
Shorts fit
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
Last edited by merlinextraligh; 09-02-08 at 02:36 PM.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,886
Likes: 0
From: Near Sacramento
Shoes
Bike Fit (includes the right bars, stem, etc.)
The right Saddle
The right bibs/shorts
After that, enjoy the ride.
Bike Fit (includes the right bars, stem, etc.)
The right Saddle
The right bibs/shorts
After that, enjoy the ride.
__________________
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Some sort of pithy irrelevant one-liner should go here.
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Some sort of pithy irrelevant one-liner should go here.
#14
Comfort is reached after making a myriad of choices and trade offs. For example, "fit" is not just the size, but also the types and combination of components. And bear in mind that the most comfortable bike is not going to be the fastest bike for racing. So here are my big buckets of comfort trade off.
1. Frame (geometry and material)
2. Components (drivetrain, bars, stem, seat, seatpost, pedals, etc)
3. Wheels and tires
4. Clothing (shorts and shoes)
5. Rider fitness
1. Frame (geometry and material)
2. Components (drivetrain, bars, stem, seat, seatpost, pedals, etc)
3. Wheels and tires
4. Clothing (shorts and shoes)
5. Rider fitness
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 311
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Like I said, I know it is controversial. I'd really like to understand it, and maybe try it. Knowing is half the battle, don't you know?
#16
I'm that guy that I am.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
I know KOPS is controversial. I get that. What I don't get is KOP.S Terms like "below kneecap" and "right over ball of your foot" go right over my head. Anyone have an idiot-proof explanation, or better yet, a picture?
Like I said, I know it is controversial. I'd really like to understand it, and maybe try it. Knowing is half the battle, don't you know?
Like I said, I know it is controversial. I'd really like to understand it, and maybe try it. Knowing is half the battle, don't you know?
#17
Infamous Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 24,360
Likes: 7
From: Ohio
Bikes: Surly Big Dummy, Fuji World, 80ish Bianchi
Fit
Saddle
Shoes
Bars/Bar tape/grips/gloves
Tires
Saddle
Shoes
Bars/Bar tape/grips/gloves
Tires
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"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
#18
Elite Fred

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,953
Likes: 44
From: Edge City
Bikes: 2009 Spooky (cracked frame), 2006 Curtlo, 2002 Lemond (current race bike) Zurich, 1987 Serotta Colorado, 1986 Cannondale for commuting, a 1984 Cannondale on loan to my son
It all depends on how hard you ride.
If you are always riding very hard, then you aren't putting much weight on the saddle. In that case saddle choice isn't that important. If you are always riding pretty slow and treating your saddle as a seat, then saddle choice becomes priority #1.
Also certain saddles might be comfy when riding on the hoods and a torture device when riding in the drops (Brooks B-17, anyone?).
I have two road bikes that I have set up to be wonderful rides up to 200 km. I'd change them a lot if I was going to do double century rides or longer. On rides that long I would ride a lot less aggressively and put a higher premium on saddle comfort.
If you are always riding very hard, then you aren't putting much weight on the saddle. In that case saddle choice isn't that important. If you are always riding pretty slow and treating your saddle as a seat, then saddle choice becomes priority #1.
Also certain saddles might be comfy when riding on the hoods and a torture device when riding in the drops (Brooks B-17, anyone?).
I have two road bikes that I have set up to be wonderful rides up to 200 km. I'd change them a lot if I was going to do double century rides or longer. On rides that long I would ride a lot less aggressively and put a higher premium on saddle comfort.
#19
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
It all depends on how hard you ride.
If you are always riding very hard, then you aren't putting much weight on the saddle. In that case saddle choice isn't that important. If you are always riding pretty slow and treating your saddle as a seat, then saddle choice becomes priority #1.
Also certain saddles might be comfy when riding on the hoods and a torture device when riding in the drops (Brooks B-17, anyone?).
I have two road bikes that I have set up to be wonderful rides up to 200 km. I'd change them a lot if I was going to do double century rides or longer. On rides that long I would ride a lot less aggressively and put a higher premium on saddle comfort.
If you are always riding very hard, then you aren't putting much weight on the saddle. In that case saddle choice isn't that important. If you are always riding pretty slow and treating your saddle as a seat, then saddle choice becomes priority #1.
Also certain saddles might be comfy when riding on the hoods and a torture device when riding in the drops (Brooks B-17, anyone?).
I have two road bikes that I have set up to be wonderful rides up to 200 km. I'd change them a lot if I was going to do double century rides or longer. On rides that long I would ride a lot less aggressively and put a higher premium on saddle comfort.
#20
dia por dia
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Bikes: hand built fixie, Lightspeed Sienna D/A
Weight. This is part of fitness, but the less you weigh, the easier it becomes. Go to a good LBS and get your bike properly fitted. Then, ride lots. The more you ride, the more comfortable you will become.
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Isla Vista (Santa Barbara) and Berkeley
Bikes: 1979 Motobecane Nomade Sprint, homegrown fixie
the right bike (size and geometry) with the right saddle for the type of riding you are doing (and your particular body type) is the first part.
after that, shorts, shoes, and gloves (all the parts that are in contact with the bike)
and finally friction reduction in moving parts (of your bike as well as your body. less bike friction is more distance easier, less body friction is reduced chafing)
after that, shorts, shoes, and gloves (all the parts that are in contact with the bike)
and finally friction reduction in moving parts (of your bike as well as your body. less bike friction is more distance easier, less body friction is reduced chafing)




