giantcfr1

I used mine (they were my only set of wheels) for maybe 13 years. I had no structural problems but they are a ******* in a cross wind. I recently had a set of mavic wheels built to replace them as I was getting bored with the spinergys.
I now prefer the look of the traditionally spoked wheels on my bike.

trueno92

damn, i wish i had a place so scenic to ride around.. nice pics!

the only thing i don't have archived on my page so far is a picture of the very first generation rev-x with no rivets. i have read about ppl that have seen them, but haven't seen them myself.

(yes i hear the comments already telling me: "its because they are all broken, or have been destroyed.")

trueno92

hey there, ok, the front bearings are normal R-8 spec, the rear uses an R-8 non-drive-side and drive-side is a shimano free hub style, that uses free balls. If you like, I can point you to pictures and directions that are on a french web-site.. it sounds pretty easy.

courtesy of archive:
Rear Bearing Adjustment: Spinergy manufactures its rear cassette wheels with a sealed bearing on the non-drive side and a standard Shimano freehub body with a bearing cone and locknut on the drive side. Over time the bearing cone and locknut may loosen, allowing "play" to occur in the rear axle. To alleviate this problem, bring your wheel to your local Spinergy dealer for adjustment, or follow the instructions below.
Tools required:
Axle Vise or Pliers
15mm Flat/Cone Wrench
17mm Flat/Cone Wrench
PLEASE NOTE: On the Rev-X wheels the cone nut is a 15mm size and the locknut is a 17mm size, whereas on the SPOX wheels the cone nut is a 17mm size and the locknut is a 15mm size. Please be aware of this to avoid confusion while following these directions.
Step 1: You must remove the cassette in order to expose the cone nut and to make the process easier. Using the 15mm and 17mm wrenches you need to "unlock" the lock nut. Hold the cone with the 15mm wrench and turn the locknut counter clock-wise with the 17mm wrench.
Step 2: Holding the axle on the non drive side, either lightly secured in an axle vise, or with pliers, turn the 15mm cone clock-wise to tighten the bearing against the axle.
Step 3: Making small adjustments, stop and check the axle, if it is still loose, tighten the cone some more, if it is to tight, back the cone off. The goal is to have a smooth, free turning axle with no play.
Step 4: Once you are satisfied with your adjustment, grasp the cone with the 15mm wrench and hold it in place. Then turn the locknut, using the 17mm wrench, clock-wise until it is firmly snugged up against the cone.
Step 5: Check axle for play, if play still exists, return to step one and try again or consult your local Spinergy dealer.
NOTES:
-If you feel that your hubs are in need of an overhaul (the total deconstruction of the hub involving the cleaning and regreasing/replacement of the bearings) we STRONGLY recommend that you have this done by your local dealer.
-In the process of cleaning your equipment, NEVER spray water directly into the cassette and rear hub area. This can breakdown the grease inside the hub and decrease the life of your bearings.

verticalmaniac

I bought this bike new in 1994 and the wheels a couple of years later. I have upgraded all of the components over the years and I still love the way this bike handles on the trails. The bike gets allot of looks and it's fun talking to newbies who have never seen wheels like his before and think they are new technology. I'll be on a 13 mile ride with it today. Happy riding!

cruiserhead

I bet you could sell them on ebay for a good price.
It's funny about revx's, they are carbon but they look so old fashioned.

They do roll well, and I actually liked them for crits.
I believe they were UCI illegal after Michele Bartoli's knee was filleted open in a crash with Revx's.