There is nothing wrong with tiagra, it's better than you get on most entry-level bikes. I have tiagra on my tourer. No problems, and I've done well over 6000 miles on that bike.

If you are still deciding on a bike. I purchased the Trek 1.1 about two months ago because, like you i was limited on funds. I have ridden it almost every day since purchase and it works great. I am really pleased with it. Best thing to do is go to your favorite shop and check it out.

+1 for Tiagra. People say it's where Shimano starts to get serious. Gone Campy myself, but my wife's Giant Defy has Tiagra and it's excellent.

Giant Defy would be a good bike for you too - right price (new even), takes 28c's if you need them, a rack, mudguards (sorry, fenders!) and is a sooooooopa comfy ride.

+1

The first thing I upgraded on my CAAD9 7 was the crankset to Ultegra SL
(it came from the bike shop with a Tiagra front derailleur, even though it was spec'd with a Sora).

I used to have a Sora/Tiagra set up on my Trek 1.5 with the OEM FSA Vero double crankset.
The Tiagra fr der along with the Ultegra crankset is noticeably better. You really can tell the difference.
The shifting is so seamless sometimes that I have to look down to see if it actually changed gears.
I can't imagine how much smoother a Dura Ace set up is going to be when I upgrade.
But the noticeably better performance from Sora---->Tiagra/Ultegra makes me hungry for Dura Ace.

I believed you said your range was as high as $500.

That's what I was referring to. The OP.

They are MSRP'd at $659. but with one of the various 10% off sales, you get it for about $599.00

https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/647444-trek-1-1-good-first-road-bike.html

As for buying used, that Specialized ("if" it fits) is a great deal if you like Specialized bikes and if it fits.
Fit and the actual bike should be prioritized over price. You may find that a Felt fits you better.
I came across a lot of great deals before I bought new. I went with new because the deals didn't
turn out to be so great once I got on the bikes and rode them a bit. The Trek fit me well.

It does make sense especially for a first road bike.

It'll be well covered by the bike shop/manufacturer. That'll save a lot of headaches.

Don't have to worry about crashes or poor maintenance issues of previous owner.

Plus, one is getting a spankin' brand new bike and no fit compromises. Always a big plus.

Thanks for all the input, you guys are really are a good community around here.

I figured I can get the price of the specialized down to around $250, but I have to buy some new pedals, since it comes with clipless, and I'm not quite on that level yet. There is also a tear in the saddle, but thats not as pressing of an issue as the pedals.

Can you guys suggest cheap/reliable saddles & road pedals?

I thought about getting the trek, but if I can get the specialized for under $300, its going to be hard to justify spending double that for the trek.

What do you guys think about the red color? Can't decide if I like it or not.

sometimes people act as if it is super easy to buy a used bike for $500. It isn't. A couple years back, I spent a month or two trolling craigslist trying to find a decent bike for $500 in my size. It was a waste of time. Most of the bikes were either sold before I called, the wrong size, or too close to MSRP for a new bike. I ended up just buying a low end $700 bike from performance bike--at least I got rollin'.

actually it is.

seems like you just slept on a lot of deals.

Picked up the bike after getting the price down to $200. A steal in my opinion. He also threw in a set of tires, 3 spare tubes, and a set of aero-bars.

What do you guys think?

Depends on the market. I've had the same experience here, can't seem to find a deal near the sweet spot of price range, how old the bike is, components, etc.

If the difference really were just $200 I would never have bought a bike from bikesdirect, for the reasons you mention. It's closer to half the final price, and for most bikes that's much more than $200 savings. There are reasons not to buy from bikesdirect, but doing so because you think it only saves you $200 isn't one of them.

My first thought as well. Age? Condition? Money needed to be invested in order to get it to good condition?
Let's add it up: Saddle, tires (I'm assuming the ones being thrown in "aren't" brand new),
mileage (that matters too), condition of bike, depreciation, tune-up...it all adds up.

Personally, for $200., I think he got a great deal.
Now, let's see how much he's going to have to put "into".
That is the "real price."

I think that bike is going to be closer to $325. just with a new saddle and tires alone.
If it needs a tune-up, easily another $75., so that'll bring it up to $400.
($100. under his top for a new bike which would've come with a new saddle
and tires and fully tuned and no scratches or damage and with a full warranty)

But for only $200., I wouldn't add anything to that bike.
I'd ride it into the ground, save up for a new bike later.



BTW OP, congrats!

Enjoy it.

My best deal so far was a 2007 Gary Fisher Opie that I bought in early 2008.
It MSRP'd for $400. back then. I was literally on my way to go and buy one new.
Came across an old Craigslist ad when I did a search for weeks old ads.

The exact bike I wanted under the exact conditions that I wanted it;
---Someone who bought it on a whim, rode it a couple of times and then just put it in their garage to collect dust.
---A bike that was in a hard to get location (which brings down potential responses)
---A bike from a non-bike person (didn't care about it, just wanted to get rid of it)

And that's what I lucked out on and got.

The bike was so new, it still had the little rubber nips on the tread! LOL
It was immaculate (never taken off road). It was perfect.

He wanted $300. for it (not unreasonable for an almost new bike barely a year old). I offered $250. He asked for $275.
I stuck with $250. and told him I'd be at his house with the cash in 30 minutes if the bike was what he claimed it was.
He took it. I went, rode it up the block, came back and one word came out of my mouth..."Sold!"

I just handed that bike down to my 16 year old bro in law.
I wasn't riding it anymore and I didn't want to sell it to a stranger.
Besides, he's a good kid and fell in love with the bike.
I can't complain...I got a few good years out of it.
And I used it to rehab myself when I was recovering from a leg injury.

Hm, the tune up is not imperative. All I have to do really is get some pedals and a saddle. Came with shimano clipless ones, so can't complain there. As for the saddle, I had my eyes on this black one:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/1837836583.html

Can anyone identify the make/model? Asked the seller, haven't gotten a response yet.

Hm, the tune up is not imperative. All I have to do really is get some pedals and a saddle. Came with shimano clipless ones, so can't complain there. As for the saddle, I had my eyes on this black one:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/1837836583.html

Can anyone identify the make/model? Asked the seller, haven't gotten a response yet.

Don't worry about components when you first start Road Biking. I ride a entry level Trek 1.1 and ride up to 40 miles with riding group and bike change gear just fine. Just go to your LBS and purchase a nice bike that fits and have fun.

Well, buying a saddle is not as easy as just getting one at a good price.
There too "fit" must be considered. A $15. saddle is no bargain if it doesn't fit you.
As for pedals, I got mine for $40. brand new (Wellgo GR8) at Pricepoint.

If it's a beater bike, just use some smooth tape for the tear in the saddle.



Otherwise, with the pedals, you're looking at about $50. for a decent saddle (if a cheaper one won't fit).
Another $50. for pedals (S&H included if you don't get them locally which almost always cost more).
So, your $200. bike is now a $300. bike. Not that a new bike wouldn't have needed saddle/pedal swaps either.

I'm debating even getting new pedals. How do-able is it riding clipless with normal shoes?

Is it normal to have a wheel lean a little bit to the right? When I let my rear wheel drop straight into the hanger, the right side rubs up against the brakes. To correct this, I just try and center the wheel, then I close the skewer.