Are the Aerowheels strong enough, or can be built strong enough for a Clyde?

yes

So now I'm comparing the CAAD 10-5,4,3....I've heard great things about the 10-4 over the 105, mostly due to the fact that last year it featured the force crank and weighed a full pound lighter. The one 10-5 that I test rode actually didn't shift as well as a tiagra-fitted Caad8. The LBS said it was probably just out of tune from customers messing with it on the floor. So the question is, I'm leaning towards the 10-5, but am I going to regret not going ultegra or rival? Does the 105 groupset perform well enough to race on and not have to spend much time on tuning it? Jumping up to the ultegra model gets you the carbon FSA crank, kyrsium wheels, better brakes. But is it worth $700??The only thing I really have against the rival is that both color choices for 2012 suck in my opinion. I really like both white versions of the 105 and ultegra as far as paint is concerned.

We're having the 105 versus Ultegra discussion again? :)

It was probably true that the 105 bike was out of adjustment; to me 105 and Ultegra are about the same on rear shifts but the front shifts on Ultegra are better. I have last generation 105 (5600) on my CAAD9 and haven't had to do any adjustment at all in about the last 2 years. Might be time for new cables and cable housing once it starts to be a little draggy...

I've never ridden Rival but have a Red bike, and to me it's a matter of whether you like double-tap and whether the overall weight is important or not. I'm dubious that most people could notice a half pound to pound worth of non-rotating weight while JRA. I'm not a fan of double-tap as it's easy to mis-shift to a harder gear when you are trying to get into an easy gear. The more tired I am, the more likely a mis-shift which is also the most inopportune time.

The main thing you are paying for at the higher specs is less weight, IMHO. Crank arms and crank spindles are stiff enough that the frame will deflect first. If it's Mavic Ksyrium wheels and not Aksium, those might be a little nicer than the Shimano RS-10 though I believe the RS-10 hubs use cup and cone bearings which should be easy to service and keep smooth. Switch out the Tektro stock pads for Dura-Ace or SwissStop or KoolStop aftermarket pads to improve breaking power on the 105 bike (this is assuming the 105 bike has Tektro brakes and not 105 brakes).

If you have the money to burn, it's nice to have the higher spec'd bike. If you are the frugal type, maybe the 105 bike will do the job and save you some bucks. If you can afford it, spend the money upfront if you prefer the bling because it's nicer to just get the bike and ride it, IMHO! :)

I have the 2012 10-4 and the Rival works smoothly for me. I ride the 10-5 but the frame was a 58cm and I need a 56cm. the shifting of a 105 is smooth, too. I really doubt you can tell the difference of the two group sets when riding them. I like the Rival crank though, over the FSA on the 10-5. If the Gulf Oil Racing blue and orange paint colourway isn't your cup of tea get the clear anodized 10-4, it is even lighter than the painted version by a few grams. Any of the CAAD 10 are great bicycles for my money. If you an get the 10-3 Ultegra I's stretch the money for the better wheels it has and the fact that the Ultegra measures up to the Dura Ace in many respects save the overall weight. Just my .02 cents.

Bill

Would would you pay for a lightly used Caad8 frameset? I used to have one

Would you guys say that $1500 is a good price for a new 2012 CAAD10-5? The retail is $1670. Do you think I'm going to offend the LBS if I lowball a little and ask $1300 hoping to get it for $1400?

Some shops are advertising that $1500 price so try for $100 off if they need to order it. 2013 models are still a little ways off. Is the bike in their inventory? I paid full retail but in the end I had big discounts on merchandise. I bought a full kit and sidi shoes and keo 2 max pedals that were discounted. Although would have been much cheaper to get the pedals online.

I'm 6'5" so I think I'm going to need a 60 or 63cm size frame which means they will have to order it. If not, maybe I can get some shoes/cleats/computer/cages bottles for a really good price if I buy with the bike. I've heard they run good deals around this time of year for a lot of the MS rides, and then again around Dec. when the next years' models come out.

This is the thing that always bothers me... My conscience tells me to go support my LBS and buy items $75+ there, but at the same time I can't see myself spending MSRP (or a little under if discounts are thrown in) when I can save a buttload buying online.

Back and forth forever.

Just give the LBS the chance to match the price+shipping. Often thay can come really close.

My LBS had the 10-5 for $1100, and I picked up my 2012 10-4 for $1400, if you're in northern california I can point you their way



Personally, I think building a good relationship with the lbs is always a plus. That way, if you get your friends into it, you can take them there and sometimes get slightly better service just because they already know you, and sometimes you get freebies thrown in too. My shop adjusts my bike for me for free, and I've taken it in a few times already. Also, good to keep the local bike shops in business. If everyone starts going online, more shops will have to close their doors except for larger ones like REI and Sports Basement. I'd rather see more independent LBS, since I've always had a better experience there than at larger stores.

Well today I joined the Cult! I ordered a 63cm 2012 CAAD 10-5 in team white/blue/green. I also bought some Look Keo Plus pedals and some shoes. One thing I can't decide on though is the computer! One that sticks out is the Cateye Strada with Cadence. It's wired and goes to the rear wheel for speed/cadence. The other is a Cateye Strada Wireless. Is it difficult to conceal a wire on a white bike that runs from the front all the way to the back under the main tube? If I ever got a trainer, the rear sensor would be nice and fit the budget better than a double wireless. Also, the wireless sensor is a bit beefy since it has to house an additional battery. Would it look clunky on that white fork? I'm not entirely sold on needing cadence. I just want something that will look clean and provide basic functions. Any suggestions??? I am counting the hours until it gets here!!

In my limited experience with road cycling I find that cadence is the most important thing I pay attention to. It really helps me keep a steady heartrate and learning when I need to be swithcing gears. I opted for a garmin unit with a wahoo fitness speed/cadence. Looks really clean without wires. I have the same frame.

I'm eyeing the Boyd Vitesse wheelset. Can anyone comment on how the wider rim equates to extra rolling resistance?

I prefer a double wireless system to measure speed and cadence. I have two Cateye V2C computers on a couple of bikes and a wired Cateye Astrale 8 (speed and cadence) on another bike. All 3 work fine, but the wired computer runs cables from the head unit, down the down tube, and along the chainstay. I prefer the wireless setup, but the wired is on an old beater that I didn't want to put more money into. If you don't need cadence, a wired setup to a speed sensor on the front fork will be less wiring and cleaner than the double wired setup.

Enjoy the new bike, and don't forget to post pics when it comes in!

Actually, the wider rim is supposed to create more of a U-shaped tire that has a better contact patch and lower rolling resistance versus the narrow rim making more of a lightbulb shaped tire with a worse contact patch and higher rolling resistance.

This from the Hed cycling website addressing the advantage of wider rims:
In 2006 Steve became rather dissatisfied with the interaction between the rim and the tire. By this time the 23mm tire had become the standard choice for nearly every cyclist. However, Steve noticed that combining a wider tire with a narrow rim simply did not make any sense. Aerodynamically, the narrow 19mm rim and a 23mm tire created a light bulb shaped profile. Needless to say, this is just not very efficient and leads to increased wind drag. Steve simply invented a solution and Hed's C2 technology was born. C2 technology has its maximum effect on clincher tires by solving the problem of the tires requiring extreme pressure to keep them from flopping over the rim during a turn. This high pressure also leads to deficiencies in cornering performance and comfort. By making the rim edge wider, C2 allows the tire to flow almost perfectly into the rim shape, ushering in a revolutionary step forward in aerodynamic performance. Although, the benefits of C2 design go even further. The wider tire mount also creates a larger contact patch with the road which distributes load better and lowers speed-sapping rolling resistance. All said, C2 technology improves aerodynamics, increases the road/tire contact patch for better cornering grip, decreases rolling resistance, and allows the wheel to be more comfortably ridden at a lower tire pressure. Not a bad improvement.

Also, more info here: http://flocycling.blogspot.com/2011/...art-4-flo.html
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l6X9YUanE0...resistance.png

On the left is the wider rim, the contact patch is wider but shorter, whereas on the right is a narrow rim with a narrower but longer contact patch. The longer contact patch can increase rolling resistance.

Milkbaby, Thanks for that very thorough explanation! I think I'm going to order them tonight!

^ you won't be disappointed. Post pics when you put 'em on!

here's my horse. have taken her out on a couple of rides, and absolutely love being on top of this thing. so glad i joined the "cult"

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/cannondale-caad10-5295_2.jpg

Just curious, how much were you able to find the Force groupset for?

Hi all, newbie around here but just bought a Caad 10 105. I'm looking forward to getting it and having my first ride.. :thumb::)

OK, I just ordered the Vitesse wheelset for my CAAD9-5. Now comes the wait. This is going to be rough. The site says "Orders placed now will be shipping around end of April." Ahhhhh!

Just bought this white 2009 CAAD9 slightly used (~400 miles on it) as my first real road bike. Going to take it to a LBS to get fitted next week. Frame might actually be one size too big, I'm 6 foot tall but with short (about 31") inseam. Anyone need a 58cm CAAD9 frame that's near NYC? :)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/IMGP2748.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...0/IMGP2744.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...0/IMGP2745.jpg

Dura-Ace group
SRAM Red Compact Crank
Ultegra Brakes
Wheelbuilder Wheels with Powertap Elite+ Hub
Garmin 705
Selle Italia Flite Team Saddle
FSA SL-K Seatpost
Easton EA50 Aero Bars
Ritchey WCS260 Stem
Look Keo Carbon Ti Pedals

bought the bike complete with force on it. whole thing with shipping was around 1400. had to replace both tires and tubes, put on a new wheel strip, and throw the pedals on. but the dude i got it from had the force group on it. absolutely love everything about it