Damn that sucks sorry to hear you're having issues. I really don't think it's such a big deal any competent LBS should be able to address it.

Ok so bad news, I was in the market for a caad 12 105 in 50cm none of the shops near me had one, they all checked with cannondale seems like no more will be getting produced until next years colorways in my size in the 105 version. Didn't check the Disc but not interested either. Caad10 ultegra 50cm until June/July. Unless you can find one in store at a LBS you're **** out of luck....

Is it they didn't make enough? Is it usually bone dry around this time of the year? Maybe I waited too long? What's the deal?

So the good news is I opted out for a great deal on a 2015 super six evo. It was originally Ultegra but LBS worked within my price ranged and swapped out ultegra for 105 and let me keep the SI crank. I got it for about the price of a 2016 caad12 105.

I had the same experience with the 2016 SuperSix frameset. They were out of stock in late January and said no stock until next year models. WTF? I contacted cannondale and they expect a late summer release date for those. So no new supersix for me until then.

This "rub" can happen on any bike that's not properly adjusted so take your frustration out on the shop that assembled your bike, not the people who manufactured it.

Maybe the mistake was your legs? Big/Big is known as cross chaining. Little/little is also cross chaining. Get your Derailleurs adjusted and then quit cross chaining.
Edit: or swap your 52 chainring for a 46t chainring to match you other bike. I say keep the 52 and start doing some squats everyday.

Yes I was told the same when I asked for the SS 105 in the silver/black. Most are gone some until midsummer. Unless you really need a bike soon or really dig one of the 2016 colorways I'd wait till 2017.

I've not owned a bike where I cannot use 4 of the gears. Especially with high end components like these. Crossing chaining discussion aside, the rub should not occur under load in any gear. Something is flexing too much. It's back to the shop for the 3rd time to try again.

this has been answered in your other thread for you. the reason your other bikes do not rub, is due to the 46t chainring etc.....

If your 52 is forcing you into big/big. Then the 52t is too large of a chain ring for the level of your leg strength.

Edit: Even if they get you adjusted. Riding big/big, you will be buying a new chain every 1,000 miles.... and new Cassette/chainrings every 2,000 miles.

Edit2: que a negative SRAM RED review following the negative CAAD review in 3....2....1....

Edit3: it is a Cross chain issue!!! the reason for cross chaining? Lack of leg strength (big/big), Lack of spinning ability (small/small).

just because it received a response doesn't mean it's the only answer. Lack of leg strength is not the issue. Whether it's a 50 52 or 46, something shouldn't flex to the degree it rubs in 4 gears. Hopefully it's just a setup issue.

Maybe someone with a Caad12 can provide their experience so far with the bike.

Dang - glad to hear your OK man! Congrats on the new CAAD!

What's up rekon, I haven't seen you posting much lately. Hope all is well man. Yeah I made it out without a scratch or any physical harm. Watching a 4,000 pound minivan crush my bike was mentally scaring though. All is well, new bike, new helmet....life goes on. Still riding that Bianchi much? I enjoyed following that build thread.

That moment does sound mentally scaring – I’m glad your OK though – sorry about the CAAD 7. Though, I really like the black on black CAAD. I know you wanted a red CAAD but you could always add some red accents on this one and it’ll look great!

Yeah I haven’t been that active on the forum lately. MBA program is taking up most of my time. I ride every chance I get and switch between the Bianchi and CAAD. I love both. I feel more comfortable on the Bianchi (probably because of the geometry) but I’ve noticed the CAAD is a lot stiffer and climbs better – maybe it’s just me.

I lowered my bars on my Caad10 and now have three small spacers above the stem. I've been riding it for a week like this. Do I need to cut it right away? I do not want to ruin anything!

I will do the same you did just for a short period of time until the fitting meet my requirement, after that will cut it. But I have seen many people do like what you asked for long or permanently, surely it is not good practice.

By the way, please study in detail warranty terms and conditions of your frame or fork, since some well known brands usually specify clearly the length of remaining steering tube over stem must not over a significant specific length such as zero or 0.5 cm due to it's strength and safety. (as well as lower steering tube left under stem should not over some number )

So, I came across a helluva deal on some wheels and I couldn't pass them up. I look like a bit of a poser but they ride so much better than my RS010s. The need to show it off is overwhelming.

http://www.bumnah.com/caad/c9onzipp.jpg

What wheels are those?

Zipp 404 firecrests black on black.

WOW Bumnah - that frameset colour absolutely pops! I love it.

Beautiful bike love the color!

I'm considering a smp saddle, I like my Fizik Arione in that I can shift back and forward and adjust during a long ride, how do you find your saddle?

Thanks for the compliments everyone. I bought the bike used off craigslist. I knew it was a rare color and really jumped to purchase it. After upgrading the wheels it's going to be a long time before I get rid of this bike. I did 40 miles today and it was comfortable the whole time. The only problem was the rider and his lack of abilities.

As for the seat, I am running a Selle SMP Pro saddle. I upgraded from a Fizik Arione. I'm training for a metric century on the 9th of April and 500 mile ride later this summer. My Fizik caused numbing of my testicles and I want to have kids in the future, so I decided to address this before doing long rides.

The Fizik was too narrow for my sit bones, more importantly I needed a cut out in the center to address the numbing issue. I went with the Pro model for the extra padding and a wider saddle. The Selle is a huge upgrade over the Fizik. I recommend it to everyone. Also I'm moving around on the saddle often when moving into the drops and out.

That said, do not buy a saddle without test riding multiple saddles. I went through 8 different saddles before deciding on the Selle SMP Pro. Bike shops should have a loaner program you can use. I spent a week per saddle doing rides on my trainer and outside.

Selle SMP saddles are expensive so I wanted to be sure about my purchase before I bought.

Lastly, play with the position of your saddle first before swapping out. After months of playing with the saddle position on my current saddle, the Fizik needed repositioning, not replacement. Though, for longer rides the wider and better padded Selle is nice.

new at this forum. two years ago i purchased a caad 10 with the purpose of supplemental training next to running. Just recently (last week) i purchased a caadx.

cad3 build is coming along nicely, I couldn't find the exact decals anywhere, so I used the caad5 saeco decals.

https://goo.gl/photos/dYT3XKtB1bYBJsXq9

http://i.imgur.com/lGBSLCph.jpg

Looks Great.

Im sold on a green frameset.

3 isnt essential to cut it immediately, as long as the expander is still expanding where the stem it compressing/clamping.

if you had a stack of 8 where the stem is well below the expander I would say chop a little bit off.

That bike is beautiful! I think the wheels really add to it - not poser at all. As long as you're putting the hurt on some people ;)