I don't do any racing with it. I'm primarily into long rides. I popped off a 60 mile ride yesterday with 2600 feet worth of climbing. The bike was comfortable the whole time, it makes you want to just keep going. The wheels make you want to get out of the saddle and rip it up some hills. Quite exhilarating. I'm training for some long rides in the coming months. One is around 500 miles and a couple that around 60 miles but with like 5000 ft worth of climbing.

Thanks for all the compliments everyone. I'm keeping this caad 9 for a long time!

going all campy stuff to keep in line with the Mario Cipollini theme, just need to find some spinergy's
http://i.imgur.com/Bv8sGV9h.jpg

Yeah! Love the Ronald McDonald schemes

I've got a 2013 CAAD10 with SRAM force brakes and Powertap AMP wheels (17mm internal width/24.5 external width). Doing a gravel race/ride in a couple of weeks.
Thinking about putting on a better gravel tire. Any suggestions of 25c+ tires that will fit?
Don't want to buy tires that don't fit.
Thanks in advance!

My final model year CAAD 10 Black Inc Disc.

Upgrades from stock: Selle San Marco Carbon FX saddle, and SRAM Red 22 Exogram crankset.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=515022

Oh the LION KING!! i think thats what they called Mario. i like this.. mho, that was a golden age of of bike racing seeing Mario big red seaco train deliver him to the finish line... flamboyant as hell but it was fun to watch him sprint when he got it right..

COOOL DALE!!

I heard it's possible to use standard Hollowgram SI cranks on the new BB30A by losing a few spacers can anyone verify this for me? Thanks

You shouldn't really ride in the two biggest or smallest chainrings, it doesn't sound like a problem with the bike but the front mech. I'm not familiar with sram but I'm getting the same issue with a dura ace equipped giant and ultegra equipped caad, I find I really have to run the cables tight and even using the trim I'm getting a little rub. 11 speed one ring too far?

The expander can be lowered a little more than the 48mm illustrated, as long as the stem is not clamping onto hollow steerer tube you should be fine but I'd get it cut as soon as you're dialled in.

Hi everyone,

Just registered today to post in this forum and I am looking for some help from more experienced bikers like yourselves.

I have recently gotten into cycling both road cycling and working out from my garage in my spin bike. I used to have an old recumbent bike which I used for weight loss 5 years ago or so and it helped me get from 200 lbs to 170 lbs which is my ideal weight. Needless to say, instead of maintaining my weight and adding weight training to my routine, in 5 years i found myself the same weight and maybe 3 lbs more or so. Back to the recumbent bike I went (my trusty machine of the past to get me to 170 but this time I felt something was missing...it felt really like the type of bike that very old people ride and somewhat stagnant...I am currently 40 years old)

I thought I should try a different system this time around...debated on rowing, but dismissed the idea as it would likely interfere more with my weight training days. I bought a spin bike in Amazon and ever since then I have been enjoying the heck out of it. It felt so much better in the upright position than my recumbent bike and the workout made me feel energized and it was extremely enjoyable. I have been working out on this bike steadily now for about 1.5 months and my weight has dropped from 204.5 lbs to currently 196. Still have about 25 or so more lbs to go but this time around I will not let up as I am truly enjoying the bike. The spin bike made me consider the idea of owning a road bike and to go out there outdoors and explore the world. Promptly I bought a GMC Denali (which compared to a Caad12 I would assume it's very laughable for most of you.) Here's a picture of it:

https://www.google.com/search?q=gmc+...kFgjsFGbzAM%3A

The bike brought back so many memories of childhood and teenage years where I spent hours riding on the bike and enjoying myself tremendously. So much so, that I made a promise to myself that once I reach my weight goal of 170 lbs I will buy a proper road bike to reward myself. I have been debating between a Caad12 105 Disc or a Synapse Disc 105. I have heard that the Synapse is more comfortable but have not had a chance to try either. I have also heard that the geometry on the Caad12 is more aggressive...I am assuming that means the riding position is more bent or forward but in this respect picture wise it doesn't seem that much more of a different position that my GMC Denali.

Since this is a forum of experienced bikers would you please look at the GMC Denali I posted and let me know whether the position would be vastly different than the Caad12? I am looking for some feedback before I purchase the bike and I hope to post many more threads in this forum and learn something from each of you.

Thanks again,

Danton

I think the best answer is always to ride both and see which feels better to you. What makes you more interested in the disc versions? I believe you'll have more selection of aftermarket wheels if you go with rim brakes, but it there's obvious benefits to disc brakes too.

2013 CAAD10 Ultegra, stock except for the AC wheelset and a couple other things. With pedals and cages it's 17lbs on the button.
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/w...IMG_1974_1.jpg

i might ride those gears about 5% of a ride...I don't care if I replace the chain in 2,000 miles. I think the 11 speed gearing might not be worth it...never had this issue with my 10spd caad10's... In other gears the bike is great...just don't shift ;)

A few upgrades, down to 7.2kg.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...E4D000301F.jpg

i'm a little concerned with the bb30 issues on caad. how prevalent is the issue?

also, is 1k for a caad10 in excellent condition, with 105 and fulcrum 7's a good deal?

BB30 in general creaks a lot unless everything is perfect because it requires perfect machining tolerances, and you've got high stress metal on metal contact. There are also problems associated with compatibility of cranks, especially with BB30A, an asymmetric standard that there is little support for if you don't like BB30 cranks (it's nearly impossible to mount a campagnolo ultra torque crank on one). I installed an FSA press in BSA shell in my CAAD10 and it's been great, nice and quiet with the advantages of BSA being a near universal standard. There's also Praxis conversion bottom brackets, which work well when slathered in loctite 609.

1k isn't an awful deal but the ultegra versions aren't much more on eBay. Some are even new with warranty.

I'm not seeing what you're seeing on ebay. perhaps it's because i ride a 56, and you might ride something different. also, i never saw a real value in purchasing new, because the price always depreciates, and the frame warranty only covers QC defects, which are few and far in between. Cannondale explicitly states that things like fatigue are not covered, so I'm not sure how much value there really is in buying new.

I also use a 56 in cannondale, 58 everywhere else, since until this year cannondale 56's had a 58 TT. I did warranty my CAAD10 because the front derailer tab cracked off. I also know of more than one person who's had fatigue cracks warrantied.

Edit: the ones I'm thinking of sold or haven't been relisted yet.

what do you mean? the top tube for the 56 is 56..
http://www.pmcycles.com.au/upimages/...0-geometry.jpg

I've explained this more than a couple times now, probably why they changed their sizing. See the row that's called measured size? That's the number that goes on the size sticker and the number they advertise. It averages about 2cm less ​than the top tube, and is a measurement of the seat tube center to top.

uhhhh... the advertised size on the sticker is whatever that's on the top row. Row B is the BB to top tube measurement. It doesn't really mean anything. what they changed this year was that instead of measuring from the BB to the top tube, they changed row B to BB to seat post collar, again, doesn't mean a thing. What's important is effective top tube, which is 56 on size 56. size 58 has a 57.5 top tube measurement. this remains unchanged.......

I own a caad10 that had a 56 sticker on it. The top tube is 58, the geometry is that of a 58.

You had me curious, so I measured my bike. This frame is a warranty replacement, but this and the original came labeled 56. I measured the first and it was in line with a 58, but this new one was actually 56. It seems strange to me that two allegedly alike frames had different measurements, but they do. Funny I never actually measured this new frame, and just trusted that it would be the same as the last one.

that makes no sense.