Help me find a worthwhile middle ground?
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Help me find a worthwhile middle ground?
Back in 2005, I bought a Trek 1200. It was my first bike since I think middle school. I'm going to be 40 next month. Here's the model I'm talking about:
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...1200&Type=bike
Now, I rode it for the first year using some plastic platform pedals, and never took to it. It hung in the garage for several years. This past spring, I pulled it out again and over the summer started riding with greater regularity because I found a couple of my friends were getting into cycling. Over the summer I switched to Speedplay zeros which I love. This winter I bought a trainer and have been riding it daily to get into better shape for the spring. In 2011 my goal is to do my first century.
Because I started riding more, I started looking at more bikes, and started riding some at some local shops. This was a mistake! Well, I did determine one thing, and that is although my Trek is a 56, I'm more comfortable on the 58s I'm riding at the shops. In 2005 I went with the 56 because the standover height was too close on the 58 for comfort. Well, with the sloping top tube designs I was riding in the shop, that isn't an issue anymore. I did go out and swap my stem to a 120 mm (the stock one was 90), and this has helped a lot. I just needed a little more reach.
Now, I'd LOVE to go and purchase the Scott CR1 Pro I rode back in the fall, but let's face it. I don't need (and my skills don't really deserve) a $3K bike. But the things I liked about it most over my Trek were:
smoother shifting (and I really like the greater cable pull on Ultegra 6700 - makes me feel like I can shift without really pushing the lever WAY over)
lighter bike
better braking
compact double (my Trek is a triple, and in Indiana I've never needed the "granny gear")
Is it worth upgrading my bike, or should I hold off? I was thinking about buying a full 105 5700 groupset for about $600, which would help a lot with the items above, but is it worth putting another $600 into this bike?
I'd really appreciate any input or thoughts.
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...1200&Type=bike
Now, I rode it for the first year using some plastic platform pedals, and never took to it. It hung in the garage for several years. This past spring, I pulled it out again and over the summer started riding with greater regularity because I found a couple of my friends were getting into cycling. Over the summer I switched to Speedplay zeros which I love. This winter I bought a trainer and have been riding it daily to get into better shape for the spring. In 2011 my goal is to do my first century.
Because I started riding more, I started looking at more bikes, and started riding some at some local shops. This was a mistake! Well, I did determine one thing, and that is although my Trek is a 56, I'm more comfortable on the 58s I'm riding at the shops. In 2005 I went with the 56 because the standover height was too close on the 58 for comfort. Well, with the sloping top tube designs I was riding in the shop, that isn't an issue anymore. I did go out and swap my stem to a 120 mm (the stock one was 90), and this has helped a lot. I just needed a little more reach.
Now, I'd LOVE to go and purchase the Scott CR1 Pro I rode back in the fall, but let's face it. I don't need (and my skills don't really deserve) a $3K bike. But the things I liked about it most over my Trek were:
smoother shifting (and I really like the greater cable pull on Ultegra 6700 - makes me feel like I can shift without really pushing the lever WAY over)
lighter bike
better braking
compact double (my Trek is a triple, and in Indiana I've never needed the "granny gear")
Is it worth upgrading my bike, or should I hold off? I was thinking about buying a full 105 5700 groupset for about $600, which would help a lot with the items above, but is it worth putting another $600 into this bike?
I'd really appreciate any input or thoughts.
#2
CAT4
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,681
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
ScoJo I sold a 2004 Trek 1200 a few months ago. The bike shifted very well with the Tiagra/105 components. Weight wise it was the very same as my Jamis, but my Jamis seemed faster for some reason... My major complaint with the bike was the triple. I am not sure about the condition of your bike, but a very clean 2004 1200 will fetch about $300-$400. Why would you put $600 into a $400 bike?? Plus you mentioned that you are more comfortable on a 58. I'd keep your 1200 and save up for another bike that has been fitted to you.
#3
If I was you I would save a little more and just get a new bike. You can find a nice full 105 bike in the 1k range. I would look at 2010 caad9's and 2011 caad10s my lbs has the caad10s for 1300 which seems like a pretty good deal to me.
#4
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Perhaps the best route to go then is to spend more like $1-1.5K and get a 58 with 105 and forego the carbon fiber. The 2011 CAAD 10s are nice. But is that more of a racing geometry? How about something in an AL with 105 with a similar geometry to the CR1?
#5
CAT4
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,681
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
#7
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Scott seems to offer the best bang for the buck component-wise, though. Everyone else always slips in a Tektro brake here or an FSA crank there. How does the FSA crank compare to the Shimano crank? Am I too concerned with this?
#8
Michigan Rider
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 381
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From: Mt Clemens, MI
Bikes: Pinarello, Motobecane Immortal Force, Diamondback, Fischer (German)
If you do know your size and geometry, plus can change stem for for proper reach why not look here -
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cf_ltd_xi.htm
You get the CF, Ultegra 6700, compact double, and lighter weight. At 40 treat yourself well and keep riding. Every bit of comfort, fit, and light weight is worth the investment at mile 80 or a century.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cf_ltd_xi.htm
You get the CF, Ultegra 6700, compact double, and lighter weight. At 40 treat yourself well and keep riding. Every bit of comfort, fit, and light weight is worth the investment at mile 80 or a century.
#9
Get a new bike because you want to. You don't need to. In all probability you can adjust your current bike (saddle height, setback, new stem, steerer spacers) to get the same relative position between the saddle, crank, and bars as those 58 cm bikes. Properly install new shifter cables and housing, and properly lube and adjust the derailers and it'll shift as smartly as a new bike. Clean your rims (green scrubby) and install good brake shoes and it'll brake as well too. True the wheels and properly tension the spokes.
#10
The reason they use FSA cranks on the CAAD is because shimanoe does not make a BB30 crank so they have no other option. I have been told its a nice crank, but I would not expect it to be much better if any then a 105 crank.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7,579
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From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
ScoJo, Well, if the longer stem allowed the bike to fit properly and the bike is in good shape a group change maybe all that you actually need. I tend to rebuild/upgrade rather than buy another complete bike without regard to resale... ie my '89 CR Cannondale has been through 4 1/2 rebuilds over the 18 years I've owned it. Worth it? To me, yes.
Brad
Brad





