Normally, I would be in the C&V section, but this pertains to modern components

I'm converting my older 6x2 speed bike to a modern 10 speed. What's an affordable and reliable wheelset (brand, model)? What kind of derailleur do I need? I'll be receiving down tube stops in the mail in a couple of days. I bought 3x10 105 STI levers today for $100. I plan to keep my crankset as a double. I'll need a 10 speed chain and cassette as well? Forgive me, as I am still learning the ropes to cycling.

Your dropout spacing would dictate if you can use 10spd hub/cassette. Better make sure first.

My frame spacing is 125-127mm. According to sheldonbrown's website, I can move up to 130mm without much trouble.

Your rear drop-out spacing will be 126. Current spacing is 130mm. Get ready to STRETCH out those stays. This may mess up your chain line a bit.

You rear hub is a freewheel. Current products are cassettes. They are not compatible. You will have to replace the rear hub/wheel. Is you wheel 27" or 700c? Could be an issue.

You will also need a 10spd RR der (possible FR der), cassette and chain.

I am also wondering if your triple STI will work well with the double crankset esp since spacing has narrowed. I'd look for someone else to chime in on that one. I haven't had to deal with that in a while and I'm a bit foggy on details.

In all honestly, it is most likely not worth the money to make the conversion as completely new bikes aren't much more than you will already be investing.

If you do go forward don't forget to post pics (with your bike in front of a white garage door, drive side out and on the large chainring).

My tires are 700c. I was also told by someone else I might need a new crank/chainring, and I am aware that I will probably need a new derailleur.

I believe my current bike has plenty of character, and I would rather upgrade than buy a new bike. I can get another bike sometime in the future. In the meanwhile, I will be selling my fixed gear to help fund my current road bike project. And I'll keep the picture taking in mind.

If you're replacing the shifters, I would replace both DRs, the cranks & the cassette (as well as the hub). You can probably get along just fine with your triple shifter on a double crank - just set the limiter screw so you don't shift into a gear that isn't there and use the lower two positions so you don't end up with a bunch of loose shifter cable if you do inadvertently shift.

The crank itself is probably fine as is, but your chain-rings will need to be appropriately spaced for the new drive train and that might be hard. I had a franken crank for a while with an old mavic crank and new SRAM 10 spd chain-rings and I could just never get it shifting perfectly up front. YMMV. If you have a standard threaded BB then it's probably worth just replacing the BB and crank anyway.

I just stuffed a 130mm wheel hub in my 126mm spaced steel frame when I did it back in 1998 and I had no problems at all. I mean really, you're looking at 2mm per side, barely noticeable. However... you should get the frame cold set so that each chain stay is stretched the same amount and stays there. You don't want a rear wheel that tracks funny for the rest of your life.

How important would cold setting my frame be when it's 2mm per side? :/ My BB is standard... but while looking that up I stumbled upon this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-437777.html If I get a modern crank, would it be a problem for me?

I wouldn't use those shifters. Turn them over on eBay and get yourself a set of new shifters if you want to go 2x10.

You can get an entire groupset from Ribble cycles in the UK for a great price. That's what I'd do. In fact, I'm looking for a steel frame to modernize right now, just waiting for the right one to come along.

Easy conversion and tons of people have done it. I ride an 81 Trek 614 with 9-speed DA drivetrain and Mavic Cosmic Elite 9/10 speed wheels. There are too many good choices for wheels out there to get into all the options. Pick one under $300 or so. Coldset the stay or just spread them by hand (either way works) and bolt on the new parts. You will have an updated bike for less than the cost of a Taiwan or China steel frame.

From what I have heard, 2mm on each side is no biggie. Get a new rear wheel with freehub designed to accept 10 speed cassette.

For your "modern" crank just get a "modern" BB to go with it.

To summarize: you need new rear wheel, cassette, FD, RD, shifters, chain,crankset, and BB.

If you love your vintage frame setup you can do this.

It might be cheaper and easier to keep your old bike as a backup and get a new modern bike with, say, 105 components.

Your choice, of course.

I've converted an old Cannondale & a steel bike for about $300 - $350 each (budget conversion).
- Left dropouts at 126. Didn't bother coldsetting
- Using original Sugino crank & Campy NR front derailleur from 1984. Works fine. 10 speed crank with old FD on the other bike
- Campy ergo 10 speed shifters w/ 10 speed rear derailleur
- 10 speed wheel, cassette & chain

There are several long threads in C&V on this, so it might be worth a look.
I cheaped out on these conversions because they were not my primary bikes. Just wanted a modern drivetrain. You can spend as much as you want.

I just got a notice on Facebook that a page on doing this has been added to/ updated on sheldonbrown.com.https://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade.html

It has the basics. But yes, C&V talks about this all the time.

I don't recommend doing it, personally. Nothing wrong with 12 speeds. Better durability of 6/7/8 speed chain and maintenance is easier. Not to mention that a new drivetrain can be quite costly!

You might be okay without cold setting the frame, I was able to fit a 10 speed Campy wheel in my Centurion with no issue. You'll be able to use those shifters, but you'll have an extra click that you might find annoying. I am using a triple Centaur shifter and am actually enjoying how much I am able to trim the FD on the double (but I do have to be more aware of it's position). As for wheels, keep an eye out for some Mavic Aksiums or Ksyriums that are older and go on sale. If you want nicer ones, get handbuilt. And of course, I can't resist posting a picture:

How did the aluminum Cannondale respond to the stretch of the wider hub spacing?

I ask because i've heard of folks doing this rather easily with steel frames, but thought alumnium wasnt so agreeable.

+1

A basic wheelset like this would work well enough: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAVIC-CXP22-...item5d321a1a76

I had fun with this upgraded Trek

It's a bit of an "ooomph" to get the wheel in .... but no big deal. You should not "cold set" or permanently bend the Cannondale to 130 as you can with steel.

That reminds me. I have another Cannondale with a 130mm wheel running 8-speed in friction mode.

The dropout spacing is a non issue. Just get any 8/9/10 speed shimano or sram compatible wheelset you find, cassette, chain, cranks with narrow chainrings, almost any shimano 9/10 speed RD should work, you can get a brand new 5600 rd for $40 shipped on ebay.

Here ya go. 85 pages of conversions:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...STI-s-or-Ergos

there's essentially no difference betwween a triple 105 front shifter and a double , other than an extra set of clicks.

I'm pretty sure there have been Shimano groups in the STI era where the only front shifter was a triple, used for both double and triple set ups.


edit: In fact the Shimano tech documents indicate that the 5500 generation 105 used the same front shifter for doubles and triples

https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830621374.pdf

You can use a triple STI as a double