Which model stems stiffest?
#26
Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 10,123
Likes: 4
From: Near Portland, OR
Bikes: Three road bikes. Two track bikes.
Bars are next. But, not as interested in public input on them. Hand position/fit are far more important. I tried anatomical bars many years ago and didn't like them. But, didn't try more than a couple shapes before going back to classic drops. It's time to try anatomical again. The flex is what pushed me over the edge.
Those with sharp angles to the drops definately don't work for me. But, a progressive curve may. I've got a pair of 3T Ergonova's in the garage ready to be mounted up in the new stem once that's decided on. There are also a few other pairs hanging in various mate's garages for me to trial, if I so desire. With regard to bars, I'm imaging it will be a process of finding the favorite shape, then deciding which model from that manufacturer is stiffest.
Those with sharp angles to the drops definately don't work for me. But, a progressive curve may. I've got a pair of 3T Ergonova's in the garage ready to be mounted up in the new stem once that's decided on. There are also a few other pairs hanging in various mate's garages for me to trial, if I so desire. With regard to bars, I'm imaging it will be a process of finding the favorite shape, then deciding which model from that manufacturer is stiffest.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#27
Before you buy a stem, decide your bar. If you go with a "compact" bar, like the ergonova's, you'll need a longer stem to get the same hand position in the drops as you get with a more classic bend bar. Bar type goes a long way toward determining stem length and angle.
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards.
#28
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 476
Likes: 0
From: New York
Ritchey c260 seems like the best modern Alu stem I've tried, but it's pretty ugly. But if you're going to use carbon bars, it's much easier on the clamp area. Big improvement on the older WCS stems in terms of stiffness.
I run a 135mm Syntace F119 and I find it to be the best mix of weight and strength. Only the bar hooks bend with it when I'm sprinting. I find all mid-weight Syntace stuff to be really excellent. And it's a 6° stem.
I run a 135mm Syntace F119 and I find it to be the best mix of weight and strength. Only the bar hooks bend with it when I'm sprinting. I find all mid-weight Syntace stuff to be really excellent. And it's a 6° stem.
#29
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 10,123
Likes: 4
From: Near Portland, OR
Bikes: Three road bikes. Two track bikes.
+1,000,000
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards.
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Last edited by Brian Ratliff; 01-24-13 at 03:46 PM.
#30
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,330
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From: Antioch, IL
Bikes: 2013 Synapse 4
completely agree here. your average stem is so short and so thick even an el cheapo stem that is 130-140ish long isn't gonna flex much before breaking/bending either the bars or the steer tube. pretty much any $80-$120 alloy stem is gonna be great
#32
#33
They have supposedly fixed the previous clamp failure issue on the X2. No issues on either of the ones on my track bike or road bike, and I'm a bar yanker.
I still primarily see X4's on the track though.
I still primarily see X4's on the track though.
#34
Another option is the ProVibe 7s stem and bar combo. The bars come in a somewhat classic shape with flat transition to the hoods. The stem is pretty ugly, and the bar is the same diameter all the way to the bend to the ramps. When wrapped they are very big. But this bar stem combo is pretty stiff. Was good enough for Thor.....
#35
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,841
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From: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Before you buy a stem, decide your bar. If you go with a "compact" bar, like the ergonova's, you'll need a longer stem to get the same hand position in the drops as you get with a more classic bend bar. Bar type goes a long way toward determining stem length and angle.
+1,000,000
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards.
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards.
To expand on this... to get around the chicken/egg problem, buy cheap stems for fit; once you know how you want the cockpit of the bike set up, splurge on a more expensive stem that is light/stiff as you require. You should be able to find stems in the $20-30 dollar range in most sizes and shapes if you poke around the internet a bit.
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#36
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,841
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From: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
You're correct though, in that cheap/heavy stems are oftern times stiffer than their weight weenie cousins. Hence some of the previous statements and suggestions earlier in this thread.
And, again, it's not about supporting weight on the palms of our hands. It's about applying torque by pulling down while to increase the speed with which one can complete the downstroke and accellerate the bike. Perhaps I should have put this in 'racing'. Although, when I'm competing for 250 out of 500, you can hardly call what I'm doing 'racing'.
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Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#38
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,992
Likes: 713
From: Boulder County, CO
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Another option is the ProVibe 7s stem and bar combo. The bars come in a somewhat classic shape with flat transition to the hoods. The stem is pretty ugly, and the bar is the same diameter all the way to the bend to the ramps. When wrapped they are very big. But this bar stem combo is pretty stiff. Was good enough for Thor.....
#39
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,174
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From: Alexandria, VA
Bikes: 2007 Pergoretti Marcelo
A bit late to the conversation but I've got Ritchey Classic 4-axis stem and it's pretty stiff. Plus it only comes in 6 degree and looks nice to boot.
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