+1 - pretty much.

Toothpaste? That is creative. It makes sense.

Robby,
Not always but a lot of the time. The problem is...it is easy to be deceived how much torque is being applied. Since carbon has a smaller elastic zone prior to fracture...albeit with a high yield strength...I generally will use a torque wrench...pretty much always on the seat tube clamp in particular...the seat tube is something I just don't want to crack And if undertorqued...seat tubes tend to slip...I weigh 190#. I have good luck at 55 in-lbs and what I use on all my bikes...including Ti.

I am a long time wrench head...built many high performance cars, motorcycles and build my own bikes like many here. I have a pretty calibrated hand...and yet when it comes to carbon fiber in particular, I will generally use a torque wrench. I don't use one on aluminum stem clamp bolts for example...even with carbon handlebar...carbon has great compressive strength...so it depends on the application.

My torque wrenchs of choice are Craftsman...have a few different sizes. Snap on are better if you like the best...go that route...or equivalent.

thanks! With those brands, sounds like I can simply go to Lowe's to pick up one with a set of bits? I was a successful mechanic/parts manager and wheelbuilder back in the mid 80's but jeez equipment has changed so much. Still want to assemble my new bike myself prior to professional fit and steerer tube cutting.

You have one up on me. I am no wheel builder.
Good luck with your build.

thanks, Neither am I anymore I used to build wheels for Marinoni back in Mtl late 80's as well as the shop I worked for, thought we were cutting edge... Now wheels are built so well and so light, don't require regular truing it's unbelievable. My new wheels are being built by November

I leave building wheels to experts like the guy in this thread.
I simply ride off the shelf wheels and have had great luck....
Cheers.

I had a CF seatpost in a CF frame that kept slipping. So I kept tightening the clamp down some more. And more. Finally the split in the seatpost clamp was metal to metal and the seatpost was crushed. Did I mention that it wasn't a normal round seatpost? No it was a much more expensive teardrop-shaped seatpost.

Lessons learned:
1. Bought a little torque wrench that would go down to the recommend 5 nm setting.
2. Tacx Dynamic Carbon Bicycle Assembly Compound - which is what I should have used in the first place.

Just make sure you get whitening toothpaste for maximum performance