Good tip...rubber tubing over needle nose sounds like a good method.
thanks

Right. Another approach I have been using is to place "flag" made out of tape near the top of the spoke. You can point them all in the same direction and watch for one to turn. The marker idea may be a better as the markings won't interfere with the spoke wrench. Thanks.

I like that idea too. The problem with the bare pliers is if it nicks the spoke. You will have a stress concentrator and greatly weaken the spoke. Another way to prevent that is to use brass pliers such as are used for removing stuck plastic parts from injection molds. They won't harm the stainless spokes. But the tubing idea is probably better.

Yeah..gotta either tape the spoke or pad the pliers to prevent marring the spoke.

rpen...you will enjoy the following wheel building blog if you have't seen it:
http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm

Btw...what is your favorite wheel truing stand? I am thinking about picking one up. Do you have a spoke tension gauge?

C4L, I am embarrassed to admit I am using a Minoura trashy truing stand about 25 years old. No built in centering, so I have to have a dishing tool also. But you know it works as well as anything else, just not as conveniently. I wouldn't recommend it however. I see the two lower priced Park models are quite reasonable and I'm sure very functional. You can't go wrong with Park. Yes, I use the Park tension meter. I resisted it for years (decades), but finally gave in. Oh man, what a difference. That tuning fork thing is for the birds (he said somewhat belatedly after using it for about 20 years!) My wheels never need truing now. I am amazed.

Thanks for the blog link. I will look into it.

Robert

Mike's page is a great resource.

I don't tape flag or use pliers, fingers and eyes have always done the trick for me and I'm scared of nicking a spoke with pliers. But by all means do whatever works to help you build the best wheel.

If you are building with bladed spokes, either the DT spoke wrench with the built in spoke holder or the Sapim circle thing with the slots cut in it (which is what I use, its nickname is the c**kring) will be a very worthwhile acquisition. As will a proper spoke threader.

I use a $40 Spin Doctor truing stand. I secure it with expansion rails in the miter slot of my table saw, and use a couple of cheap magnetic base dial gauges (around $20 each) on the saw table for final truing. I've got the cheap Park tensiometer ($60) and one of their dishing tools (WAG-4, $45) to finish out the supply. For bladed spokes, I just have a 3/4" x 3/4" x 2" piece of pine with a slot cut into it on my bandsaw as a spoke holder.

The only thing I haven't been able to do with this setup is build a Pugsley wheel because the arms don't separate enough for the 170mm spacing.

Dave, what do you mean by a spoke threader. Cutting threads on spokes? Or getting the nipples onto them? Or ...?

Great stuff...thanks guys for all the tips.
I was thinking:
- Park Pro TS 2.2 Truing Stand...Is this overkill for a once in a while wheel build? If so, which Park stand would you suggest...again for the amateur ocassional build? (no...I won't be making one out of bike fork :) have one of those with a zip tie.) Doesn't work so good for a back wheel.
- Park TM-1 Spoke tension gauge...about 60 bux
- Park Dish gauge WAG-4 above

Let me know what you think.
PS: clever stuff Mike about using your table saw for a nice planar surface...great tip.

Bianchi -- mango.

You can't throw a stick without hitting a black/white/red bike and a rider with matching kit.

I am not sold on the blue bar tape though.

Sorry, that was confusing. A threader to thread the nipples into the rim. It's like a spring loaded screw driver.

I feel like thread rolling machines (spoke threads are rolled on, not cut in) are kind of a false economy. We have the Hozan one because we needed lengths that were not typically available, but it's a pain in the butt to use and although it makes nice threads it doesn't allow you to be super precise about lengths, which costs you time when building. With sites like BHS selling spokes without you needing to buy the whole box, no home builder should have any use for a thread roller.

Not a nipple driver? Sounds like something else...or maybe I've just not seen a spring-loaded one.

I haven't (can't) read this whole thread. Is there a simple summary by the OP? If not, would you consider it? 24 pages of minutiae and so many back-and-forths, I just don't have the mental capacity to do it.

Thanks though!

Dave, thanks for the clarification. So you are talking about a device to lower the nipple into the rim without dropping it and having it roll around in the cavity until you can shake it out, right? Don't ask how I know about this? :) I didn't think you meant a thread roller. My LBS tells me they cost thousands. I usually thread the nipple upside down on a spare spoke and use that to insert the nipple down into its hole. Then I use a spoke wrench to transfer the nipple to the right spoke. Is the spring loaded threader easier? Do you know where to get one? Thanks again.

See this page and move down to the spoke gripper! http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/wheel.html. A special pliers for preventing spoke twist from Park.

R,

I have one of these:

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...-nipple-driver

but honestly I manage to drop nipples often enough with it that I just use a spare spoke bent into a T-shape and threaded into the back of the nipple when working on deep rims. The other annoying thing about it is sometimes it doesn't quite fit into the hole on the outer wall of the rim so the spoke is the only way to go anyway.

Thanks. The nipple driver I have is a rotary crank type with no way to attach the nipple to it; it is just for turning the nipple. I hear what you are saying about the drawbacks of this device, and I use the bent spoke too. I would think though that the advantage of this driver is the nipple doesn't unscrew from the guide spoke as the is being screwed on the wheel spoke. Sometimes I think I am screwing the nipple onto the wheel spoke, and the spoke really isn't reaching it enough to catch a thread. All I am doing is unscrewing the nipple from the guide spoke. That can be a PITA. This looks neat despite its shortcomings. I may try one.

Hey Guys,

There are probably quite a few of us who have subscribed to this thread to read about Bianchi's experience and who aren't contributing with the idea that the thread can remain somewhat free of chafe and allow others to follow Bianchi's journey.

It's clear he's made his decission with regard to components, but, the story isn't over yet. Some of us would like to hear what he has to say once the build of otherwise untested components is complete and how the prodcut compares with his expectations.

Can we keep the OT chatter to a minimum?

Thank you. Was thinking the same

you mean you prefer OP's handwringing as opposed to actual useful information?

So I haven't given any useful information. Good to know. And, my concern or thoughts about which wheel set up to purchase doesn't hold any validity?



I think he is saying that the last 2 pages of wheel building, technique and tools to use has nothing to do with the thread. If you want "Useful" information, you wouldn't want to follow this thread.

Well, the topic of the thread was the various wheels he was riding/reviewing, how they were built, the different wheel components and his impressions and opinions on the wheels. It wasn't about the arcane minutia of wheel building. There's an entire forum for that if I'm not mistaken. So yes, I for one do prefer what the thread was intended to be about, not the hijacked stuff.

I've followed this thread long enough, I think I deserve some better entertainment. The OT stuff is full of win.

Thank the manufacturer!

don't you love the irony pdedes? Laughable.
The fredly guy making the request hasn't contributed one substantive post to the conversation and yet he has a vote.
Further, the OP agrees...the same OP that would be 'adrift at sea' without the contribution of those who have participated in the OT
sidebar. Classic.