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Nicely done, I like the black. Now if we could just get black cassettes

You can. Kcnc cassettes on fairwheel

I read the above post and following ones regarding CK's recommendation for low spoke tension. I do not dispute that you were actually advised this, but I am very surprised. Low spoke tension means minimal spoke "stretch" and elasticity and increases the chance of a spoke "unloading" under stress. Unloading and the chance for spokes to periodically (every rotation) unload on the bottom of the wheel (not to mention during severe impact stress due to road hazards) is the single main cause of spoke fatigue and breakage. Because the CK hubs are so highly regarded, even prized, it doesn't make sense that they would have such a low individual spoke tension limit. Unlike many of you guys I only build with either American Classic or inexpensive BHS hubs and have never heard of stretching the hub shell to an extent that bearings become loose. Neither have I ever had a problem from tensioning front wheels to as much as 120 kgf.

Contrary to the information quoted to you, here is the relevant excerpt from the CK R45 hub owner's manual, the only information provided in writing regarding proper spoke tension on either the front or rear hub:

"Radial laced wheels are also more sensitive to over- or under-tensioning, thus proper wheel building practices must be followed. Please follow thespoke manufacturer’s recommended tension specifications when building wheels. Inspect hubs and check spoke tension at regular intervals."

This, I think, is in direct contrast to what you were told. Jude's use of 115 kgf for front hubs is consistent with best wheel building practice and consistent with spoke capability. I cannot imagine owning a wheel built to lower tension except in the case of a highly dished rear, when the non-drive side maxes out so much lower than the drive side. If CK R45 hubs cannot tolerate this quite normal 115 kgf spoke tension, they would be disqualified for a quality wheel build in my opinion. Since we know from their widespread use this is not the case, they must, by inference, be able to withstand spoke tension in the range that Jude used.

Robert

Yeah. Just checking my email before leaving for work.

Jude says she set mine to 115kgf in the front and 120kgf in the rear.

clean look, should work well for ya, 'grats.

I have found exactly the opposite of most the issues you bring up.

The lower running pressure , I find offers more protection to my rims, I find the tires absorbing rocks, or rough spots in the road mucch more smoothly becuase there is actually some absorption in the tire.
The tubeless run forever without flats with the sealant in them. Tubed tires get cut with glass, small metal pieces etc. sealant takes these issues without flats.
Just carry a tube with you if you do get a flat. remove the tire and put the tube in and inflate and go.
hutch intensives have not been difficult to mount and unmount from the rims. I think the earliest versions of tubeless tires were very difficult, and people assume all are this way. I am riding hutch intensives and they have been out for a while and it appears they have resolved this issue.
Tire selection is more limited, but there are several good tires out now. hutch Intensive, Schwalbe Ultremo, Bontrager Trl, and several more. More than enough to choose from. This selection is growing every year.
Advantages:
Ride is much smoother. I'm talking a very noticeable difference. After riding for 20 years on tubes, I can feel a difference, that makes me never want to go back.
They roll quicker. In coasting with friends, I notice that I am always very fast in coasting, even though other aero factors factors are similar with other riders. This fact has been confirmed by many studies from people that are much smarter than me. There is a friction loss of the tire and inner tube interface which causes more riding resistance. Thus the reason tubulars are popular with racers.
Don't have to worry about pinch flats as I have had several with tubed tires.
Any rim can be run tubeless with stans tape and valves. This makes conversion very easy and inexpensive.

I find that the advantages far out weigh the disadvantages. If you tried them several years ago in there infancy, don't dismiss them, they are great and I for one will never go back to tubes.

Not gonna be able to test ride today :(. Wife had to go into work and i got the kids. But at least I got the new tires on and mounted. I took it for a ride around the block in the neighborhood and am excited to ride them asap.

Anyone know about how long it takes for these hubs to get louder? they are dang near silent right now and i miss that bee's nest in my ear!!!!! I want these things to scream!

Took some better shots today after mounting the tires.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_2749.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_2766.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_2758.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_2757.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_2759.jpg

that front looks like a ferris wheel, there are so many spokes

Are the cages the only carbon weave bits on the bike?

yup 24 up front! Being that I'm 175-180, it felt going with a 24/28 would be a better choice than the 20/24 I had with the boyds.

yeah :notamused:. Everything else is UD carbon. On the look out for the same cages but in UD.

I wish more manufacturers would take a similar subtle approach to branding. Looks nice.

only trying to push a button. my next wheel build will be a 20f, 28 rear. 24r on aluminum a bit too squishy for me but on carbon 50mm ok.

Bianchi, the wheels look great enjoy!

As to the sound, I don't actually think they will get louder, at least mine have not. My understanding is that the new hubs are less loud than previous ones. They still have the angry bee but perhaps not quite as noticeable. Not sure if that's true or not but that's what I've been told. I do know that mine are not nearly as loud as the others I've heard.

I can't say exactly but I thought the same thing when I got mine. Couple hundred miles maybe. Although mine aren't all that loud. I think I recall reading somewhere that they are not as loud as mtb hubs. Fewer pawls maybe.

I looked for inexpensive UD cages for a while before settling for a pair of Blackburn Slicks.

Beautiful. Is that a valve extender, or just a really long valve?

Can't wait to hear your impressions of the ride.

just a long valve. Will get shorter ones when I need to get new tubes. Same tubes I used on my boyds. Boyds were a little bit deeper so having a longer stem was easier to use the pump.

Thanks Bianchi, that is interesting.

I ALWAYS listen to the manufacturer in cases like this but on this occasion I dont trust the advice I got. It goes against what I know and what (it appears) industry experts build to. Thats why I asked the question, not to cast doubt on your wheels but to get a number from an experienced source.

Originally I built to 90kgf, why? Because front wheels are more lightly loaded than rear for a start and they have better bracing angle from the spokes. Also if you buy DT swiss's flagship 180 hub with ceramic bearings and all the bells and whistles it tells you not to build radial and if you do keep the tension below 100kgf. So 90 seemed reasonable, especially as my hub was previously laced 2x and has some spoke hole marks and scratches from that.

The wheel rolls fine with either tension but im thinking now of putting it back to 90kgf so there is some extra "headroom" on the tension. I suspect it would loosen up if it wasnt for the spoke freeze. In my mind 115 seems high, given that the front wheel takes a lot less load than the rear.

Hmmm, need to think some more.

Don't forget that inflated tires unload the spokes some. If you keep your tires well inflated there is an automatic safety factor built in.

I am just puzzled that the priciest hubs have the worst limitations on build design and tension. There is something wrong there. Radial is nowadays standard, and the best hubs can't take it at normal tensions? That's not right.

Robert

I don't know anything g about wheel budding, but Jude does. She has built a couple sets in her time so I trust her work.

very nice looking wheels bianchi10. I look forward to your ride report, but in the meanwhile, I gotta know




What do they weigh????

I didn't get a chance to weigh them before she put my cassette on. When I bring them back to have her put the super spokes on I will weigh before and after.

Jude cured him of that focus. Remember?

Nevermind. ;)