Just this past week I bought a band new Felt F5, assembled it myself, and had my LBS check it over just to make sure I didn't forget anything (I pretty new to working on bikes and figured I rather be safe than sorry). Anyway, after only a 30 minute test ride the day I built the bike, the first real ride I took it on was an unsupported century. Everything on the bike checked out before the ride, and during the ride I didn't notice any strange handling, but at about the halfway mark I started hearing a clicking sound when I pedaled. I figured that this was simply my spd pedals, which have a tendency to make such a sound when not installed with enough lubrication, and, as I didn't have any grease on me, I didn't worry about it. However, afterwards, while doing my post ride bike check/cleaning, I realized that the headset was dangerously loose. Naturally I'm a little baffled, as I hadn't felt anything wrong with the bike, but in hindsight that clicking and clacking was obviously the loose headset. I know that riding with a loose headset is a good way to damage a head tube, and since I have a case of "new-bike-over-protective-paranoia," I was just wondering if 1.) its normal for a new bike's headset to come a bit loose (let alone really loose), and 2.) whether 100 miles with a loose headset is enough to cause ovalization on a quality carbon frame?

No, not normal.

I've had every new bike I've ever owned develop a slightly loose headset over the first 100 or so miles. The headsets do appear to settle as you ride the bike, and slightly tightening should fix the issue. Never caused any issues. However, they were only *slightly* loose - not sure why yours was so loose, maybe it wasn't tightened sufficiently? In any case, I would doubt that it could damage the bike significantly.

From personal experience, threadless headsets can be really tricky to install if this is your first time. If you're not sure, take it to another LBS to take the whole headset apart, to check that there is no damage and to reassemble it. Visual inspection is not enough to determine proper installation. Taking apart/reassembly is the only way to make sure some part is not missing, was originally installed upside down or wasn't tightened enough.

A "properly installed and adjusted" head set "may" become slightly loose while settling in and breaking in...It should be part of the "check" process to check the adjustment before and after rides for the first few miles.
Perhaps you rode on some dicey roads that caused more vibration than normal which loosened the head set. I'm surprised you did not notice it considering your description of how loose it was...a loose head set is quite noticeable when using the front brake.

Tighten it properly and make it a point to check it before and after every ride for some time, until you feel confident it is not loosening up. If it won't stay in proper adjustment bring it to a shop for evaluation and reassembly to be sure all is done correctly.

Keep us informed

Did you tighten side bolts on the stem to proper torque, or just by feel?

I am sure there will be some folks chime in about how "it's all my fault", but I experienced a failure of the steering tube on my Felt F5 which presented the EXACT way you are describing. The steerer tube delaminated from an "overtighthening" (as Felt called it) and I was out a $400 fork. In spite of the torque spec on the stem, don't (and I mean don't) tighten it over 5nm.

Just as a side note, I recall (or think I do) from looking into replacement forks, that Felt was doing the next gen fork with an Aluminum steerer rather than Carbon. For what reason after the failures of the previous generation (think recall +) we can only surmise. According to what year your F5 is, it may not be possible for you to have crushed the steerer tube.

If the fork manufacturer does not specify a torque for the stem side bolts that is safe for the steerer tube, than using the stem manufacturer's recommendation cannot be legitimately construed as over tightening, i.e. the fault of the assembler. You should have fought them for a new fork. The same thing happened to me at the other end of the stem, re: a Kestrel lightweight handlebar that crushed at the stem manufacturer's recommendation. The bar was replaced in warranty.

This is my experience too. If its installed right and properly torqued, it shouldn't come loose. When I'm assembling just about anything, I do it once and then back off all the bolts, and re-torque. It stays after that.

What kind of system does it use to hold the nut in the steerer tube? i.e., compression plug, glued in sleeeve, starnut?

I've had an issue with a headset loosening when the glued in sleeve in the steere tube came loose, making it impossible to prpoerly tighten the headset.

So, its worth checking that the compression bolt, or sleeve in the steerer is not slipping.


As for getting the headset properly adjusted, it's pretty easy to get the tension right. Loosen the stem bolts. Tighten the top cap until it's snug.
Pick up the front wheel and turn the handlebars. If they bind it's too tight. Then put the front wheel back down, lock the front brake, and roll the bike forward. If there is paly, or a clunk, when the rear wheel comes off the ground. It's too loose. Adjus the top cap accordingly.

When you've got the tension correct, tighten the stem bolt to the specified torque, usually 4-6nm.

As was discussed in one of the threads about your fork, it was the fault of the person working on your fork. You said that they tightened the stem to 10nm, which is way above the typical reccomendation for a CF steerer.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ork?highlight=

Agree. Threadless headsets on new bike might get a bit loose as they settle in. Ordinarily, this would only be slightly loose. A careful inspection before assembly to ensure the bearing seats (often imprecisely referred to as "races") are installed properly, clean and mate up properly can help reduce this.

It all comes down to having basic knowledge (the internet isn't only for forum discussion and porn - you can actually LEARN something via websites) and making the effort to check your bike BEFORE you go hurtling down that descent at 70Kph....particularly if it is a brand new bike, or if it has just been built/rebuilt.

cheers