I have been riding the Shimano 6^ float yellow SPD-SL cleats forever without any serious issues. Three months ago, I purchased a new Dura-Ace SPD-SL pedals that came with the 1^ float blue cleats. I have ridden them exclusively for three months now, and a funny thing I noticed is that my leg fatigue got much better. My typical ride is 65-70 miles, and usually my quads and right knee (broken femur, titanium rod running from hip to just above the knee) are kinda sore the rest of the ride day. Now, with the blue cleats, no soreness at all.

The reason I ask is because I have four new yellow cleats I had bought last year at a good price, and now I am thinking maybe to get rid of them on Craigslist and totally stick with the blue 1^ float cleats.

Anybody with similar experience?

Whaddaya think?

I recently changed over from the 6 degree to the 1 degree floats after my fitter said it wouldn't hurt. Same time she also fitted insoles so not sure of the difference. I know the combo has made me feel smoother in my pedaling.

The float might be allowing your knees to move too much and causing the problems. Less float, fewer problems. But that assumes you get your cleats set right. If you have very little float, and your cleats aren't right, that could be forcing your knees into an unnatural motion. That would be very bad. So less float could be good, but only if you are confident of your cleat placement and angle. Which brings us back to why float was instituted in the first place, because folks couldn't get their cleats right. The other advantage of less or no float is the ease of exiting the pedals. Much easier with no float as any twist at all pops you right out. I like that, but also like a little float for protection. I use the Look Keo gray cleats, 5 deg instead of the red ones with 10 deg float. Nice compromise.

i've got probably 1000 miles on a new set of Eggbeater zero float cleats. didn't have any problems before and still don't. kind of like the more restricted feel when out of the saddle.

I use a grey keo cleat on the left and a red keo cleat on the right. The grey has much less float.

So yes, your knees/legs can hurt from too much float. A related thing to check is saddle height and leg length discrepancy. If your saddle is too low or one of your legs is longer than the other, you can get more motion on the longer leg assuming saddle height is set for the shorter leg. All this stuff (leg, knee, foot, etc) is connected to each other and it is very hard to evaluate things on a standalone component basis.

IMHO, less float is not going to improve things. If every thing is tracking well, you're fine with no float, or a lot float. If things are not tracking well, limited float is going to cause problems.

For me, I've ridden Speedplay X's for years with massive free float with no issue. Currently I have one bike with Garmin Vectors (look style) with limited float. I don't see any difference with power or discomfort.

I think if you don't hae biomechanical issues, and your cleats are properly aligned, no float is fine. Pedals with free float compensate for biomechanical issues, or poor cleat alignment. Limiting float may cause problems, and I don't see how it creates any advantage.

Was having some knee issues this past fall, riding Speedplay X2s, especially on the left leg. Switched to SP Zeros so I could play with adjusting/removing float, which seems to help (among a couple other fixes). Locked out most of the float range on the left; and middle range on the right.

So in my case Yes - less pedal float seems to be more knee friendly, but with the caveat that I also worked on other issues, like saddle height/setback, insole support, weak hips, stretching etc.

I agree with the bold. I think I'm lucky in that I don't seem to have knee problems riding (however I can't do any weights as my knees go out within a day or two). When I started riding "float" was not an option so I learned, through careful trial and error, a good cleat position for me.

When I finally went with a float pedal (1997? so after 14 years of actively riding) it had very little float, honestly I don't remember what it was but less than the standard 9 degrees. Sometime after that I went to Look Keos, with varying levels of float. I couldn't use the red cleats (9 deg), they moved too much (I learned I tend to exert lateral pressure when out of the saddle). Gray cleats were fine at 4.5 deg? I bought but have not tried black (zero float) cleats.

For me too much float is super disconcerting, but I might be old fashioned. I'm good with very little float.

I previously used LOOK and SPD but ended up with aching knees whatever the cleat setup. Swapped to Speedplay Zero with 0-15 degree float and my knees are happier than ever.

I have speedplay light actions, which have a ton of float. They solved my knee issues.

I can't speak to the science/biomechanic issues, so all I can say is that float feels weird to me, and I've never adapted to it in 20yrs of repeated attempts. I still ride 0° cleats (Mavic) and single release SPD clamped down tightly (though they do still float somewhat, I don't notice often; I use with MTB shoes for winter/spring rides, so maybe outsole helps 'em stay put).

As has been suggested, I do spend some effort to get cleats set properly. I've gotten good over the years, but it's not slap n go.

A very good question OP. Or to rephrase, are 0 to low float pedals better for power production at perhaps a fractional compromise to overall knee health. So will share my thoughts as a long time cyclist who has ridden many different levels of float.
When a leg pushes down on the pedal there is a combination of forces at play....both vertical and horizontal components of force. On a good or optimized pedal stroke, most of the force...lets say 99% of the force is vertical because of proper knee tracking. With a pedal that has float the horizontal component of force is lost in terms of foot rotation and this energy is not redirected into a vertical component of force. This is a good thing for knee health. For example I run my Speedplays wide open to not compromise my knee health. To me knee health trumps ANY lost power due to redirection of force by constraining the foot in terms of float. For a racer with an excellent pedal stroke who wants optimal performance, it may make more sense to have limited float to direct all energy from the foot into the direction of crank rotation. With proper cleat and float adjustment this is achievable. But for the average cyclist with less than perfect pedal stroke, to me best case is a high float pedal to optimize knee health for the long term. Much easier for the average cyclist to get it wrong, i.e. place lateral forces on the knee due to a less than perfect pedal stroke and imperfect cleat orientation with limited float.
My thoughts.

So I used to race in toe clips. Nylon or metal cleat nailed into the bottom of my Sidi and Detto Pietro bike shoes. They looked like ballet slippers with a hard sole. Slide the foot into the clip, down goes your heel into the cleat pull that strap and you are connected and not coming off the bike.
It is much easier to dial in proper fit today.
Also, those old cleats did not offer float. Thus, a guy like me finds float annoying and uncomfortable.
However, I was carefully measured for my shoe/cleat setup including a shim under the cleat to level things out.

If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you'll hurt yourself before you get the setup right.

If you, like me actually go to people for help , well I have seven pairs of shoes from three manufacturers any of which can be ridden because my setup is the same.


I just cannot stand to have my foot wallowing around in the pedal, but your mileage may vary.

BTW, I come from an era where we played lots of sports, and I played hockey and soccer so my knees are not the best, but my setup does not bother me in the least.

I tell folks who are getting into clipless to get it setup properly. The fastest way, other than crashing to hurt yourself is with bad shoe/cleat setups.

And my feet do not go numb when I ride.

Good post from a man that knows and that is you. We each tend to view from our own particular lens. Of course you see a lot of average weekend guys come into your shop and I see them out on the road with their poor pedal strokes. A bit of chicken and egg at play. What comes first?...a good pedal stroke or a good cleat alignment with tight float adjustment. Of course there is an intersection of each. But for a guy with a less than pristine pedal stroke which makes up the vast majority of the cycling public, tight float will not be good for their knees. This is for the simple fact that a knee that moves laterally throughout the stroke will rotate the foot and this will side load the knee. This is why I espouse more float for the average rider. Not for you of course. Btw, my stroke I would say is good...perhaps very good for an amateur. But when I get out of the saddle, I prefer more float because by feet rotate more toe out. So for even a guy like me who doesn't have your racing pedigree but is an experienced cyclist, for me at least, I like the 'concept' of more float because I don't want any lateral loading of my knees. But yes, the iceskating reference of speedplay pedals opened up for float is an acquired taste which over time disappears.

The problem with float for someone with no biomechanical issues is it potentially sets you up for injury. If your feet don't move around, your probably need zero or limited float. When you have float and get really fatigued, your foot can start to flop and move around.That's when you might get injured.

I have never experienced what you mention. Can you explain how an injury can occur when a rider is fatigued with high float?

Maybe lesser float will prevent you knees from moving enough and cause problems. More float, fewer problems?

I don't really know, but either is equally plausible to me. I've run and walked all my life with infinite float (and also riding with flat pedals), so I'm not convinced no float on the bike is necessarily beneficial, though it could be if it's corrective of some physiological issues.

I see it more on others than experiencing it myself. On group rides with lots of hills, many riders maintain stable feet at the beginning. Towards the end on steep climbs their feet are twisting all over the pedals.

Edit - I was thinking about what I said and it doesn't make sense. Just because someone's feet move around doesn't mean that causes knee pain or injury. I suppose an argument can be made that restricting feet movement can cause injury.

Objectively, I don't think float/no float makes a difference if your cleats are set correctly. Subjectively, I prefer the "feel" of no-float better, so that's what I use. My 60 year old knees don't care.

Pedal float is like cleat position and saddle choice. Everyone is different and throughout several decades of debate there has never once been a consensus. I don't mean to belittle your question at all; it's just that you are going to have to experiment with your own body to find out what works for you.

For every thousand people who say a lot of float has been good for his or her knees, there will be a thousand who say it's not good.

Been busy...typically float cleats are what riders get, but about half are brand new clipless riders who feel more confident with that feel. It feels less restrictive.
Regardless of choice, setup is critical.

The other thing is this. Some experienced cyclists are of the view that your knees should be moving straight up and down like pistons when your pedal stroke is good. So, now the question becomes this. Should your cleats be set up to effect a piston-like knee action (thinking of duck feet, k-legs etc here)? And if so, then how does so much float at the base of that piston help or hinder your piston action?