I believe I could find something similar if I keep looking for a couple of weeks. I have seen some good deals made. And I really don't have any intention of seeing wally about this issue - just saying I am looking for something rideable for now but I would like to make a purchase that will be suitable for several months. If this sticks then I may be ready to upgrade.

I saw this post and got really excited - I actually inquired about it and then I saw in one of the pics that it is 56cm - I'm 6'3" so I think it is out of my size range

The recommendation to go into a shop for some basic bike fitting is good, and try out as many brands as they have to get a feeling for how they differ for height and reach (basically, top tube length, as most will have 100-110mm stems standard). Then, check out this calculator. Follow all the instructions...you might need help. Using a book between your legs for that measurement is helpful (you'll see what I mean when you do that measurements). Bike Fit Calculator | Find Your Bike Size | Competitive Cyclist

I was riding a 58cm 2011 Trek 2.1, which was always a little long for me but the right height. I had to run a relatively short stem...not ideal. When I switched to a 2013 2.1, geometry didn't improve much, but when I went hunting for a Trek Madone carbon frame I dropped to the 56cm and it was a great improvement, and necessary as the reach on the Madone carbon frames was a tad longer than their aluminum. On the other hand, if I were buying a Domane frame, I would definitely ride the 58cm size. FYI: I'm 6' tall, 33" cycling inseam (not the same as a pants measurement inseam, again, you'll see this on the measurement site above). When you go shopping for the right bike online/Craigslist, remember that stems are easy and relatively cheap to change, but you want to get a frame that is a reasonably good fit to begin with. With today's compact frames, you'll often fit (legs) perfectly fine on 2 different sizes from any manufacturer, but the top-tube length will determine how much you have to stretch out to the handlebars on that particular frame/size/manufacturer.

Thanks - very useful information.

Have you heard of javelin sebino. I can't find anything that tells me a estimated value. I am wondering if there is something wrong with this name brand. Not much info on them. This bike is supposed to be brand new - guessing the year model is 13' or 14'

Had to do a couple searches on that brand name since no, I had not heard of it. Looks like it's a specialty brand focused on tri-athlon (time trial) bikes, and their HQ is in Illinois. The Sabino is noted at the link below, but looks like the last model is 2011 and nothing since. Could be good, and if it's in your price range might be fine. Do you know what components are installed on it? That could be a factor as it seems Javelin sells many of their bikes with many different groupsets from super cheap to super expensive.
Sebino | Javelin
Also check this thread from 2008: Sale on Javelin complete bikes

Edit: Worth adding, that tri bikes are usually more aggressive geometry, focused on going in a straight line, but the Sebino looks similar to a Cannondale CAAD9 geometry so it may be a good all-around bike (not too "racey" geometry, not necessarily relaxed either).

Here is the post of the bike - I just quoted it - $800. It is out of my price range but I might be willing to compromise if it is a good enough deal.

"Brand new Javelin Sebino road/tri bike for sale. The frame is brand new and I had some Shimano Ultegra components already to build the frame with. Has a carbon fiber fork made by Zero and carbon rear A frame. All new cables, new aluminum bullhorn handlebars with new grip tape. New ISM Adamo seat and Thomson seat post. Has some older tri bars with new tape, also has Specialized cyclometer. "

Frame may be new, but still probably a 2011 or 2012 model. No biggie. Not necessarily a fan or combo aluminum/carbon frames like that but there are benefits. I'm more worried about the bullhorn handlebars (these are not typical drop bars on road bikes) and what kind of shifters are connected to the system. If they're typical Ultegra shifters, then that eliminates most of my concern and it wouldn't be too hard or expensive to convert to drop bars in the future. Everything else sounds fine...even if the Ultegra components are older (6500 or 6600) that is still high quality and long lasting equipment. Wheelset is the last thing I'd be concerned about, especially since it sound like he's throwing old components at this bike and probably just throwing whatever he has around at it. Best to have someone knowledgeable...and local...go with you to see the bike.

Thanks for taking the time to look at this!

OP, sorry for the threadjack here. JamesInSJ: how do those two frames compare in ride quality, perceived stiffness, etc.? I have a 2011 2.3 that I really like and have wondered if that new aluminum frame is really an upgrade. Thanks....

This is my personal opinion on it, but I wish I had just kept my 2011 and waited a little longer to just make the upgrade straight to carbon (which I did earlier this year). The 2011/12 2.x aluminum frame is just perfection for the 2.x series...making one of the best aluminum frames out there with a balance of performance/comfort. I feel like the 2013 frame (and maybe this applies to the 2014 one too if they made no changes) increased stiffness in the wrong places. I never noticed any flex when pounding out of the saddle in the 2011 frame, but I also found the frame just compliant enough to inspire confidence in sharp turns and it didn't rattle my teeth when riding on poor road conditions. The 2013 frame seemed too stiff everywhere...it was always rattling me to death on less than ideal roads. I also didn't feel like it initiated sharp turns as well and I definitely noticed my downhill/fast turn speeds drop, probably from a lack of confidence on this frame. My suggestion...you have some pretty good components on your 2.3 already...your next upgrade should be to a 4.x or even better 5.x carbon frame. I went to a 2012 5.x frame and love every second of it. The pre-2013/14 Madone carbon frames (i.e. without the kammfoil design) can be had for $700-800 on eBay and probably locally if you can find them. I hunted for several months to finally get the right one so take your time. Ask lots of questions of the seller and don't buy from a seller that doesn't intimately know the history of the frame (i.e. original owner willing to tell you all about his riding and enjoyment of it and what/why he upgraded to something else). Then buy a cable kit (Jagwire pro racer = $35) and swap all your components over.

This really helps; thanks! I see no need to upgrade anytime soon; more bike than I need tbh with you. Only upgrades are wheelset (H+ archetypes with Pro 4s SC) and a Jagwire pro racer kit as you suggest above; both really noticeable upgrades imo. Thanks again.

What do you think of the Pro4 SC? My rear tire has just about had it (Vittoria Zaffiro Pro SE...excellent tire for $20 and about 2500 miles) and I got a pair of the Pro4 SC last year free with some Wiggle orders and will be mounting them in the next month or two.

I like them a lot. Very nice supple ride which many compare to tubulars, but last me only about 1500miles; I'm 170ish. (23mm) For comparison, I like them much more than Conti GP4s in 25mm; but those will last me 3k+ miles. Archetypes are 23mm rims btw.

That's funny you say that. Last July I purchased a close-out 2012 2.1. That frame IMO was amazing. Very smooth yet stiff. It was a great handling bike. I liked it so much that a month ago I found a deal on a brand new 2012 4.6 with similar geometry. Certainly the 4.6 is nicer, but that 2.1 I think is indeed nicer than the 2013 and 2014 2.1's that have the KVF aero frames. Even the guy I sold it to was impressed with how well it rode.