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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

New frame sizing

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Old 01-10-15, 10:45 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by shoota
Ok so here she is in all her 15.2lbs, harsh riding, stiffness glory.

Took her out for the first real ride, our local shop ride that I'm very familiar with. I felt comfortable but also felt like I didn't quite have the punch that I'm used to. It felt labored at times. It could have been that it was 40F but I didn't feel all that cold. Some of the guys said it's because the geometry is different but if my hands, butt, and feet are all in the same place how could the geo makes that much difference? Is there something I can do fit-wise to simulate the more traditional geo of the Cannondale six13 that I'm used to?
There just is no way of telling from one ride. If your three contact points are in the same spot over the bike then the bike fits. Small tire pressure differences or small differences in weight could all be contributing factors. You just have one data point. Come back and report after a months worth of riding.

BTW, while I am not a Scott Foil fan, this is a sharp looking bike.
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Old 01-10-15, 11:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by WheresWaldo
There just is no way of telling from one ride. If your three contact points are in the same spot over the bike then the bike fits. Small tire pressure differences or small differences in weight could all be contributing factors. You just have one data point. Come back and report after a months worth of riding.

BTW, while I am not a Scott Foil fan, this is a sharp looking bike.
Thanks

So there's no way to get similar feels between the two geos? Hopefully it's just a matter of getting used to the new geo then..
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Old 01-10-15, 11:20 AM
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Very nice looking. The ways that geometry would make a bike feel "less racy" would be if the wheelbase were very long or the trail were very long, stuff like that. The former isn't a problem for you, and I doubt the latter is either. The other thing that can cause a feeling of sluggishness would be too much flex robbing you of power. I generally discount the reality of that in modern frames and would highly doubt it is a factor in that bike. Especially since you describe it as stiff and harsh riding. If it were also power sucking, what would be the point of making such a frame. Could be larger tires. Try wheels and tires on it you are confident in if that is an option. Oh, and just like you have to check that the appliance is, in fact plugged in, when it isn't working, make sure your brakes aren't rubbing. Ya nevah know!
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Old 01-10-15, 11:31 AM
  #29  
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Listen to the rpenmanparker's comments here, I doubt geometry is the issue, the bikes are too similar. It is likely materials. Please bear in mind that feel is very subjective and changes from day to day. Put your old wheels on the bike. Also note that Cannondale worked on the *Six* for a long time. They know what works on that bike and nearly all versions of the Six were highly praised for it's road feel. Road feel does a lot for the perception of speed. Ride a couple of more rides on routes where you know you have ridden the Six13 well and see if your overall times improve.

Problem you will have is that, a certain level of bike/rider most bikes behave and perform the same way, and its not like you went from a Denali to the Scott, Your reference is a very well balanced performance bike in the Six13. There will likely only be marginal differences in how it handles and performs.
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Old 01-10-15, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by shoota
Ok so here she is in all her 15.2lbs, harsh riding, stiffness glory.




Took her out for the first real ride, our local shop ride that I'm very familiar with. I felt comfortable but also felt like I didn't quite have the punch that I'm used to. It felt labored at times. It could have been that it was 40F but I didn't feel all that cold. Some of the guys said it's because the geometry is different but if my hands, butt, and feet are all in the same place how could the geo makes that much difference? Is there something I can do fit-wise to simulate the more traditional geo of the Cannondale six13 that I'm used to?
1. nice looking bike
2. use a datum to recreate your fit from your old bike to your new exactly (centre of the BB is a good one)
3. maybe you just sucked that day, or you suck in general
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Old 01-10-15, 02:36 PM
  #31  
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Wait a minute! This is the road bike forum! Anything less that the proverbial monkey and the football, is toooooo big!

You will never be able to ride it, and you will probably fall off the edge of the world when your cleats stick!
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Old 01-10-15, 10:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Very nice looking. The ways that geometry would make a bike feel "less racy" would be if the wheelbase were very long or the trail were very long, stuff like that. The former isn't a problem for you, and I doubt the latter is either. The other thing that can cause a feeling of sluggishness would be too much flex robbing you of power. I generally discount the reality of that in modern frames and would highly doubt it is a factor in that bike. Especially since you describe it as stiff and harsh riding. If it were also power sucking, what would be the point of making such a frame. Could be larger tires. Try wheels and tires on it you are confident in if that is an option. Oh, and just like you have to check that the appliance is, in fact plugged in, when it isn't working, make sure your brakes aren't rubbing. Ya nevah know!
These are actually the same wheels. I took the spacer out and did a little test ride and I think it now feels much more similar to the six13. I suppose this will just be a tinkering issue till I get it just right.
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Old 01-11-15, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
These are actually the same wheels. I took the spacer out and did a little test ride and I think it now feels much more similar to the six13. I suppose this will just be a tinkering issue till I get it just right.
Spacer? Do you mean on the steerer tube. Well, you can't really compare until your body position is exactly the same on the two bikes or as close to the same as can be managed. My previous advice about how to make the necessary measurements should get you where you need to be.
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Old 01-11-15, 07:20 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Spacer? Do you mean on the steerer tube. Well, you can't really compare until your body position is exactly the same on the two bikes or as close to the same as can be managed. My previous advice about how to make the necessary measurements should get you where you need to be.
Yes on the steerer tube, I didn't mean literally "take it out" so much as I meant I moved it from under the stem to over the stem, dropping the stem 5mm or so. Thanks for your advice.
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Old 01-11-15, 10:48 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Wanderer
Wait a minute! This is the road bike forum! Anything less that the proverbial monkey and the football, is toooooo big!

You will never be able to ride it, and you will probably fall off the edge of the world when your cleats stick!
In the "41" nothing should be easy or explainable.
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Old 01-11-15, 12:18 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by WheresWaldo
In the "41" nothing should be easy or explainable.
And, I thought I did a pretty good job....
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