Ask Scrod
#9376
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
From Sugino:
The torque is 12-16N.m.
However, this torque specification is appropriate
under the condition that the SG75 cranks are used with the NJS parts.
I usually use around 32-38 N.m or 23.6-28 lb.ft for all square taper crank bolts and never have any problems.
The torque is 12-16N.m.
However, this torque specification is appropriate
under the condition that the SG75 cranks are used with the NJS parts.
I usually use around 32-38 N.m or 23.6-28 lb.ft for all square taper crank bolts and never have any problems.
#9377
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Since Scrod hasn't replied to your question, I'll state that I've been using 400 in-lb (33 ft-lb) torque on all my square taper cranks, including Suginos. I grease the bolt threads but leave the axle dry.
Edit: Scrod did reply, so you can ignore my post.
Edit: Scrod did reply, so you can ignore my post.
#9380
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Same here - I grease the threads (unless I'm dealing with Campy bolts that like to back themselves out andf use a drop of blue Loctite) and never grease a square-taper spindle.
#9381
THE STUFFED
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 12,671
Bikes: R. Sachs Road; EAI Bareknuckle; S-Works Enduro
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
17 Posts
How current is EAI's online catalog in terms of them actually having it? More specifically the NOS stuffs.
#9382
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Unless you have a dealer account, the site you see is very different than the one I see and I have access to a huge list of things not shown online.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 01-09-15 at 05:15 PM.
#9384
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Very bad idea, because it can result in overtightening of the crank arm for a given torque. If the crank arm bottoms out on the spindle taper it can actually get rounded out or even split apart. The goal is to develop sufficient friction between the crank arm and spindle taper to prevent it from moving once the two pieces have been pressed together.
#9385
Senior Member
scrod do you have experience with maxxis re fuse tires? if so what's your take on them
#9386
Grumpy Old Bugga
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 4,229
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 370 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
6 Posts
Scrod will give you his experiences. Mine are that that are brilliant despite the cheap price. They grip well, roll well, and best of all, refuse to be punctured no matter how much glass and crap you pick up in your tyres. I've now run five sets through both the Hillbrick and the Europa and the only punctures were a single snake bite from where I'd let the pressures get too low through being slack (ie, the tyre wasn't penetrated) and another where something, I never found out what, cut a hole in the sidewall and tube so wide I could poke my finger through it. Part of my normal bike maintenance is to check for glass in the tyres (people around here are dickheads when it comes to disposing of bottles), and it's not unusual for me to be digging glass out of them. While my rears wear out, I usually replace the front at the same time due to the number of cuts from glass. I typically get near enough to 2,000 km out of a rear and seeing I weight the wrong side of 110kg, that's pretty good. They are all I buy now.
#9388
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Scrod,
So I almost have all the components to build my first custom bike (been buying parts slowly since march). I've been riding a junker purefix bike for the last few years. Basically, I wanted to bring in all the parts of my new bike and have you assemble it for me, but then I figured I wouldn't learn anything about building or assembling a bike (which is elementary for true enthuisiasts). So, I wanted to build it myself but I don't want to make mistakes overtightening things, or putting the headset on wrong, etc. If I had you assemble it, could I watch you and maybe ask questions along the way? I figure thats the best way to have my bike assembled correctly/safely but also have me learn a new thing or two.
So I almost have all the components to build my first custom bike (been buying parts slowly since march). I've been riding a junker purefix bike for the last few years. Basically, I wanted to bring in all the parts of my new bike and have you assemble it for me, but then I figured I wouldn't learn anything about building or assembling a bike (which is elementary for true enthuisiasts). So, I wanted to build it myself but I don't want to make mistakes overtightening things, or putting the headset on wrong, etc. If I had you assemble it, could I watch you and maybe ask questions along the way? I figure thats the best way to have my bike assembled correctly/safely but also have me learn a new thing or two.
#9389
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
That won't be a problem as long as our schedule is clear, as it may take a little longer than a typical build. Give me a call or e-mail us and we'll figure out a good time to have you come in.
#9390
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4,347
Bikes: Felt TK2, Felt Z5
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
20 Posts
I am looking for the best Presta adapter to use on any pump, hand or foot, for an aero wheel like a disc or tri spoke. Topeak Smarthead and the Silca "crack pipe" are coming up with mixed reviews on each. Also if there is a preferred valve length on the tube to make it easier.
#9391
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
nitto b260 riser vs Eai promax riser? Casual riding only
#9392
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
I am looking for the best Presta adapter to use on any pump, hand or foot, for an aero wheel like a disc or tri spoke. Topeak Smarthead and the Silca "crack pipe" are coming up with mixed reviews on each. Also if there is a preferred valve length on the tube to make it easier.
#9394
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ahh just realized I need a bar w a 22.2 mm end. Nittos are 23.8. Just got some cambium grips to match my saddle
#9395
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Becasue of your post I checked Brooks site, which I hadn't done for a while. I noticed that Brooks has added two colors to the Cambium, rust and black. And the black saddle's rubber underside is black too. Sexy. And they are selling Cambium tape too.
#9396
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
The Cambium tape feels a little abrasive at first but is really nice. The all-black Cambium saddle is very nice too.
#9397
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Do you sell Brooks stuff? I'm getting some ideas for another bike.
#9398
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Yeah, it's made just like the saddles with a rubber bottom layer and cloth on top.
We do sell Brooks stuff. I just put a Cambium on a bike I'm building for myself and absolutely love it.
We do sell Brooks stuff. I just put a Cambium on a bike I'm building for myself and absolutely love it.
#9399
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The Cambium really is a nice-looking saddle, although I've read people saying that the color tends to fade quite quickly. Anything you've experienced, Scrod?