From Sugino:

The torque is 12-16N.m.
However, this torque specification is appropriate
under the condition that the SG75 cranks are used with the NJS parts.

I usually use around 32-38 N.m or 23.6-28 lb.ft for all square taper crank bolts and never have any problems.

Since Scrod hasn't replied to your question, I'll state that I've been using 400 in-lb (33 ft-lb) torque on all my square taper cranks, including Suginos. I grease the bolt threads but leave the axle dry.

Edit: Scrod did reply, so you can ignore my post.

Sweet, thanks.

Thanks guys.

I very rarely use a torque wrench when doing certain things anymore. After a while, you just know.

Same here - I grease the threads (unless I'm dealing with Campy bolts that like to back themselves out andf use a drop of blue Loctite) and never grease a square-taper spindle.

How current is EAI's online catalog in terms of them actually having it? More specifically the NOS stuffs.

Unless you have a dealer account, the site you see is very different than the one I see and I have access to a huge list of things not shown online.

when i built my first bike i read to grease the spindle, and ive not had any problems

why shouldnt i grease it?

Very bad idea, because it can result in overtightening of the crank arm for a given torque. If the crank arm bottoms out on the spindle taper it can actually get rounded out or even split apart. The goal is to develop sufficient friction between the crank arm and spindle taper to prevent it from moving once the two pieces have been pressed together.

scrod do you have experience with maxxis re fuse tires? if so what's your take on them

Scrod will give you his experiences. Mine are that that are brilliant despite the cheap price. They grip well, roll well, and best of all, refuse to be punctured no matter how much glass and crap you pick up in your tyres. I've now run five sets through both the Hillbrick and the Europa and the only punctures were a single snake bite from where I'd let the pressures get too low through being slack (ie, the tyre wasn't penetrated) and another where something, I never found out what, cut a hole in the sidewall and tube so wide I could poke my finger through it. Part of my normal bike maintenance is to check for glass in the tyres (people around here are dickheads when it comes to disposing of bottles), and it's not unusual for me to be digging glass out of them. While my rears wear out, I usually replace the front at the same time due to the number of cuts from glass. I typically get near enough to 2,000 km out of a rear and seeing I weight the wrong side of 110kg, that's pretty good. They are all I buy now.

There you have it.

I've never used them so I ain't even mad.

Scrod,

So I almost have all the components to build my first custom bike (been buying parts slowly since march). I've been riding a junker purefix bike for the last few years. Basically, I wanted to bring in all the parts of my new bike and have you assemble it for me, but then I figured I wouldn't learn anything about building or assembling a bike (which is elementary for true enthuisiasts). So, I wanted to build it myself but I don't want to make mistakes overtightening things, or putting the headset on wrong, etc. If I had you assemble it, could I watch you and maybe ask questions along the way? I figure thats the best way to have my bike assembled correctly/safely but also have me learn a new thing or two.

That won't be a problem as long as our schedule is clear, as it may take a little longer than a typical build. Give me a call or e-mail us and we'll figure out a good time to have you come in.

I am looking for the best Presta adapter to use on any pump, hand or foot, for an aero wheel like a disc or tri spoke. Topeak Smarthead and the Silca "crack pipe" are coming up with mixed reviews on each. Also if there is a preferred valve length on the tube to make it easier.

nitto b260 riser vs Eai promax riser? Casual riding only

I have no idea. Sorry, man.

The Promax risers are decent enough quality but Nitto is obviously the better of the two.

Ahh just realized I need a bar w a 22.2 mm end. Nittos are 23.8. Just got some cambium grips to match my saddle

Becasue of your post I checked Brooks site, which I hadn't done for a while. I noticed that Brooks has added two colors to the Cambium, rust and black. And the black saddle's rubber underside is black too. Sexy. And they are selling Cambium tape too.

The Cambium tape feels a little abrasive at first but is really nice. The all-black Cambium saddle is very nice too.

The description of the tape says it is made of rubber and cotton. Is there actually some rubber bonded to the cotton?

Do you sell Brooks stuff? I'm getting some ideas for another bike.

Yeah, it's made just like the saddles with a rubber bottom layer and cloth on top.

We do sell Brooks stuff. I just put a Cambium on a bike I'm building for myself and absolutely love it.

The Cambium really is a nice-looking saddle, although I've read people saying that the color tends to fade quite quickly. Anything you've experienced, Scrod?

Did you go for the 15 or 17, and how does it feel compared to your Swift?