I'm not the lightest guy in the world, so I put more stress on the wheels than others may have. I gather the wheels they're using are still the same 24 spoke "Aerowheels" or whatever they call them. I broke a spoke on the rear after less than 200 miles. Had it replaced, wheel trued and retensioned - broke another the next time out. Gave up on those wheels then and there, and since then, I've had to spend about $200 on wheels (one used wheelset from a coop and later a brand new rear wheel).

Anyway, in a word, the wheels were not durable in the least. I know others (here on BF) who have had similar issues. I think it's a very legitimate concern and a real problem.

As for Prestas, I now run Prestas on both my front and rear wheels (neither original to the bike). My new rear wheel is drilled for Presta, and on the front, I just used a Radio Shack vinyl grommet around the valve stem and the Schrader valve hole. That keeps debris out if you decide to go that way.

I ordered the Schwinn Avenue from Walmart (same bike as the Target Trailway, but different color, grips and seat with reflector. I couldn't turn it down for $40 off ($160).

I'll update this topic with my experience, just to add to the general retail experience reported with the Paver.

Mark

Good luck with it. If the wheels don't start popping spokes, it should serve you pretty well otherwise.

I bought this bike as well. The only thing I don't really like are the swept back handlebars. I was wondering if you replaced them, and what you replaced them with?

I've been meaning to buy a straight bar for it, but I'm not sure what size to get. I suppose I'll have to pull the bar off and measure.

I just sold my Paver today on Craigslist. Personally, I liked the handlebars. More of an upright, cruiser/comfort position. The bull-nose seemed to be designed for bungee'ing some cargo to the handlebar. (A jacket, small bag.).

I bought the Scwinn Avenue from Walmart (almost the same bike as the Trailway at Target). It fits me better than the Paver. I don't like the front shock and seat-post shock. I'd like to put a rigid fork on it.

I like the Paver. But, it was just a bit too small for me at 6'-0". The buyer is 5'-9" and it fit him nicely.

I thought about keeping the Paver and converting it to an e-bike. But, I think a 25-30 mph bike would benefit from front shocks and double-wall rims. A bike like that probably takes a beating on uplifted concrete and asphalt edges.

The buyer was a lot like me. Getting into pavement/commuting riding. Not ready to pull the trigger on a $800 "real" bike (as the cork sniffers would put it). The Paver can be a stepping stone for him, like it was me. Since it fits him, it could be much more than a stepping stone.

The Paver is still "out of stock" at Walmart. I think I will have the lifelong distinction of getting the last one. It's too bad because it was a decent bike for the $130 price (if your expectations were set correctly).

The Schwinn Avenue is working well for me. More of a lean-forward (fitness) position. I think I like that more than the upright/comfort position of the Paver. Still feel a little cramped. An "offset" seatpost would help. Better components.

Starting to look at used Trek FX 7.3s. The Avenue may end up being my e-bike.

I know this thread is old, but hoped that someone else might find my info useful.

About 2 months ago, I bought a Mongoose paver second hand from a friend for $40. When he'd had it, he had done a nice job of maintaining it. The handlebars had been replaced with an Origin 8 riser bar with a brace across the top that reminds me of bmx handlebars. He had replaced the chain and added a chain guide. He had replaced the quill. Even with the change in handlebars and the quill, I was still sitting too close to the handlebars with the seat at the right height (i'm 5'8). I wound up swapping the quill to Origin 8 quill to threadless convertor. I used a 140mm stem with about a 5-7 degree angle (second hand, so not sure of degree. upside down, so negative in my case) to get the reach just about right for me. My friend had also replaced the brake pads, seat, and put MKS lambda pedals on it. He still had the rack for the back, bagged up an extra chain and 3 pairs of kool stop brake pads. I feel like i got a bargain (the pedals are usually 35$ or more on ebay).

since having the bike, i've swapped the tires to schwalbe cx comp and used the sunlite thorn resistant tubes. i agree with you definitely, good tubes and great tires make a difference. it's ok to spend a little on these and i'd do it on a more expensive bike anyway. I've swapped the seat for a brooks b17.

I noticed that it was slow. Yes, very slow. It seems to stem from a combination of a small front chainring and the crank arms are shorter than average. I swapped the chainring to a bigger chainring and it included a longer crank arm length. When I changed the crank and arm, my friend pointed out that the original mongoose's equipment was VERY HEAVY and likely made from steel compared to aluminum. Changing the chainring and crank arm dropped weight, extended the pedal circle diameter, and increased my chainring to cog ratio. It's much better. I am very happy with the bike. My only complaint is that the bottom bracket is low like a road bike. the extra length on the crank arm increases pedal strike possibilities. I haven't hit the bottom bracket on anything yet, but I do enough trail riding that i feel it inevitable. The bottom bracket and rear hub seem to squeak. it could be because i'm overweight.

I'm still thinking about buying the Avenue. If it weren't for the special $40 discount I will get at Walmart (due to my Paver problem), I'd spend $30 more for the Trailway. I like the silver color. But, for an $70 difference, I can't justify it.[/QUOTE]

If you have the cost covered either way,
pick the one you like best.

You put a Brooks on a bike that cost less than the saddle?

Lets hope they figure out how to secure the seat to the frame so it doesn't get stolen.

- ANdy

You put a Brooks on a bike that cost less than the saddle?


i don't understand, why not?

Walgoose colors are so cool!

If you want to spend money, you can buy a high quality vintage bike off eBay for the same or a little more than the cost of a big box store bike.

If you have a good frame, all the rest you can upgrade as your circumstances allow. But a heavy frame is literally impossible to fix from the start. Add to that the fact big box store bikes come in only one size, it makes it difficult to find a good riding bike that fits a new rider the first time.

You may save some money but its really is poor economy because the bike is poorly built, can't be upgraded and the ride is completely unpleasant. Spend a little more for a good bike and you'll be happier.

You can find vintage bikes made 15-20 years ago with high quality frames and finishes for around the same price you can get a new big box store bike today. What is the better value for the money? In my opinion, its no contest.

So basically, the Walmart frames are decent enough, but they throw on cheap, heavy components. No surprise there.

Basically what you have learned is yes you can get a cheap cost of a bike up front at time of purchase but will eventually pay the same or close to the price of a bike at a bike shop over a short period of time due to poor quality. Purchasing a bike from the shop has benefits, 1 you get free maintenance checkups for the life of the bike and 2 their bikes most likely come with better rims that are true and will probably stay true with casual riding. Case in point: I bought a trek kids bike for my son 13 years ago from the shop at $130. At the time that was a lot for a 16" size kids bike and my wife said I paid too much. Well that bike has taken a beating and the rims never went out of true, Wheels spin like new and the cranks and headset are still perfect. It has gone through 3 kids and is still going strong. The only thing I replaced since then was tires, tubes and grips...Money well spent...

Wow, old thread!

It is a good summary though. I see kids with these things, and also strip and rebuild bikes at a co-op for inner city kids. We get a lot of bikes like this. Bottom line – most of the stuff on these bikes wears out and brakes pretty fast, and 99% of the people don’t have the time or inclination to fix it. So it goes in the trash. I cringe when I see people riding new bikes that can’t be ridden because they won’t even stay in gear.

That is great if you have the time, but it is still going to take some cash to keep the thing running and replace parts that brake quickly.

As for the Trek FX, I would rather get a used one off of craig’s list (or one of the many 20% off sales at LBS) than the Walmart special.

Yeah, if you can find one in good condition. I got a sweet mint condition lugged chromoly specialized a few weeks ago. Its kinda fun to ride in club training rides with those $6000 Trek Madones. Man, the fit and finish on those old bikes is incredible.

Yeah, but if you don't know about bicycles, you could get easily duped whenever buying used...

Quote:

If you have a good frame, all the rest you can upgrade as your circumstances allow.

This statement is quite true!I strenuously disagree with this statement. Many Xmart bikes can be upgraded quite successfully, provided that they have decent frames. Most do have passable frames.

At one time, prior to chromoly steel and it predecessors, the steel used for bicycles was much closer to carbon steel or 1020 steel. It was not butted or shaved and was by default, made to be quite heavy in order to retain its strength while cycling. Therefore, all bicycles were "heavy" and they could all be repaired, by having their parts replaced. The same is true today!
Again, this statement is almost a completely erroneous when it comes to most Xmart bicycles. Most of their bicycle frames are strong and reliable.

I do agree with this statement 100%...

Exactly.

I scored a Bianchi Trofeo off eBay for $200. A mid-range Italian road bike from the 90s for about the same price I could pay for the GMC Denali. When you know what to look for, you can find pretty good deals out there.

I got back into cycling a few years ago and did the same thing with a cheapish hybrid. I am glad I did as I learned a lot about wrenching. Having said that.......There are FAR TOO MANY sub 100 dollar old rigid frame chromoly steel mountain bikes out there to buy a cheap bike from Wal-Mart or whatever box store.

+1

Yup! That's it, buddy!