chain alignment q.
03-21-16 | 03:30 PM
#1
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chain alignment q.
Whats the proper way to get chain alignment? adjust the rear wheel? adjust the bottom bracket?
I'm not super far off as is, but I get quite a bit of chain noise which leads me to think i'm getting a little binding.
I'm not super far off as is, but I get quite a bit of chain noise which leads me to think i'm getting a little binding.
03-21-16 | 04:18 PM
#3
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
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Have you measured your chain line front and rear? What is "Not super far off?"
A too tight chain makes all kinds of ugly noises too.
A too tight chain makes all kinds of ugly noises too.
03-21-16 | 04:49 PM
#4
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03-21-16 | 05:40 PM
#7
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Try replacing the chain.
I have one of these super cheap chains on my bike and like I said, it's super quiet. It made a huge difference when I replaced my old chain (like you, mine was used and I had no idea when it was replaced)
https://www.retro-gression.com/colle...kmc-z410-chain
I have one of these super cheap chains on my bike and like I said, it's super quiet. It made a huge difference when I replaced my old chain (like you, mine was used and I had no idea when it was replaced)
https://www.retro-gression.com/colle...kmc-z410-chain
03-21-16 | 08:10 PM
#9
canis lupus familiaris
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From: North Carolina
Bikes: En plus one
The condition (wear) of the chain or the "tightness" (adjustment) can change over time, the alignment of the chain won't.
03-21-16 | 08:16 PM
#10
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
There's limited room on most hub shells to move a sprocket. However, you can (usually) move the shell on the axle by switching spacers around. Unfortunately moving the shell on the axle means having to redish the wheel to compensate.
Moving the crank may be as easy as moving spacers, or call for a new spindle.
In the end, it's not which is better, but which is more practical for you. Just another example of the devil being in the details.
BTW- unless your line is off far enough that it's visibly obvious when sighting along the chain from the back, I suspect that it's NOT the cause of your noise.
Question, How diligent were you about getting proper* chain tension?
* proper chain tension is NO tension, you need slack. Less slack is better, but you must have slack.
Moving the crank may be as easy as moving spacers, or call for a new spindle.
In the end, it's not which is better, but which is more practical for you. Just another example of the devil being in the details.
BTW- unless your line is off far enough that it's visibly obvious when sighting along the chain from the back, I suspect that it's NOT the cause of your noise.
Question, How diligent were you about getting proper* chain tension?
* proper chain tension is NO tension, you need slack. Less slack is better, but you must have slack.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
03-21-16 | 09:37 PM
#11
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I've never thought about chain line either, but I've only owned three SS/FG frames, and I guess none of them have been real fringe cases. One was a road conversion.
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03-21-16 | 09:38 PM
#12
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I'm no expert, but I'm inclined to agree with this in regards to chain line.
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"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
03-22-16 | 12:02 PM
#14
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
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From: Coeur d' Alene
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