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Cinelli Parallax 2016. Worth it?

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Cinelli Parallax 2016. Worth it?

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Old 08-08-17 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
Look at this bike below. The fork BLADE itself is STRAIGHT. But it is fastened to the steerer tube at an angle. That creates the reake/offset. This fork has almost the same amount of rake/offset as the blue bike I pictured earlier. 45mm vs 50mm.

Use a straight edge on your monitor in line with the head tube and you will see the the axle is well in front of the steering axis.



I know, I perfectly get that, it's obvious that having a straight fork but with an angle at the joint with the head tube will have the same effect. What I was saying is that in the previous posted picture, just that picture, the increased rake of that very specific bicycle was likely consequence on the curvature, so I am not sure how we did get here to be honest.
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Old 08-08-17 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
The picture isn't wrong, your brain is.
Hey! Easy tiger...
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Old 08-08-17 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by _debo
the increased rake of that very specific bicycle was likely consequence on the curvature,
The rake of the fork is created ONLY by the curve of the blade the blue bike. That said, the rake is pretty normal and not big big factor. The lack of toe overlap is caused more by the long top tube and even more by the 70 degree head tube.
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Old 08-08-17 | 06:21 PM
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Old 08-09-17 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
The rake of the fork is created ONLY by the curve of the blade the blue bike. That said, the rake is pretty normal and not big big factor. The lack of toe overlap is caused more by the long top tube and even more by the 70 degree head tube.
And yet again, we agree. Although assuming that a specific bike size is needed and that a particular bike geometry (like in the case of the parallax) it is what it is sometimes I suppose, I repeat suppose not stating, that increasing the rake, reducing the crank arm length or wheel size are the only three viable options.

What I will be curious to discover now, is why reality is different from the output of bikecad and the basic math you can do, like 540 (front wheel) - 165 (crank arm) - 336 (radius of a 700/23) it leaves 39mm and that assuming no q-factor at all... how is it possible the tyre rubs/touch the crank?
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Old 08-09-17 | 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by _debo
And yet again, we agree. Although assuming that a specific bike size is needed and that a particular bike geometry (like in the case of the parallax) it is what it is sometimes I suppose, I repeat suppose not stating, that increasing the rake, reducing the crank arm length or wheel size are the only three viable options.

What I will be curious to discover now, is why reality is different from the output of bikecad and the basic math you can do, like 540 (front wheel) - 165 (crank arm) - 336 (radius of a 700/23) it leaves 39mm and that assuming no q-factor at all... how is it possible the tyre rubs/touch the crank?
One thing to consider is that a 165mm crank arm is actually a good bit longer than 165mm. Probably closer to 185.

What is the 540 (front wheel) number you are using?
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Old 08-09-17 | 03:09 AM
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If you measure to the end of the crankarm, yeah. To the center of the pedal spindle it should measure true to size. Wait, why am I doing this?
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Old 08-09-17 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
One thing to consider is that a 165mm crank arm is actually a good bit longer than 165mm. Probably closer to 185.

What is the 540 (front wheel) number you are using?
Still, that would leave you 19mm. As per the 540 is said front wheel but I meant front centre and I took the value from here Mash Parallax - Cinelli for the size XS.

I suppose I'll have to wait when I get the frame in the upcoming weeks and I'll swap components with my current one. If it rubs I'll start looking for a 155mm crank which could be better for me anyway.
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Old 08-09-17 | 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by seau grateau
If you measure to the end of the crankarm, yeah. To the center of the pedal spindle it should measure true to size. Wait, why am I doing this?
Because you can't resist internet calling you
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Old 08-09-17 | 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by seau grateau
If you measure to the end of the crankarm, yeah. To the center of the pedal spindle it should measure true to size. Wait, why am I doing this?
Well it aint the hole that hits the front tire.
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Old 10-26-17 | 02:59 PM
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Here we are my build is now complete and here is my personal truth about the crank overlap. I got myself a parallax size XS(50) with a sugino 75 dd 165mm and 25mm schwalbe one tubeless tyres. Attached the clearance or lack of depending by how you see it. Toe overlap? Yes, but neither the crank arm nor the pedal touches the tyre
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