I love your bike! I personally like the white and blue too! Unfortunately upon purchase from ebay... Someone BOUGHT IT!!!! Thankfully I found someone else with a 2015 edition and in really good condition. Meeting him soon

I like all the paint job Cinelli mash frames except the "unpainted" one. It just has a raw look where u can see the welds. It's too shines to look raw in my eyes.

I've always been a sucker for the pink cinelli vigorelli I think it's termed the vigarosa? But no longer available cept for the occasional random Find that is rarely in ones size lol.

Make sure you know they run a little small. My felt was 56cm but the Cinelli mash I have is a 54 and is spot on. I'm just under 6 feet and a slovenly 210 lbs.

Yea the Parallax is worth it for the velodrome. However, if you want to weave through traffic and throw your bike around with your rear end then this isn't the bike for you. But if you like the pretty colors...whatever go for it.

The Parallax wasn't designed for the track, it was designed for street crit racing.

54 bottom bracket drop is not horrible for the street but you can get "street track" frames with 58 and that 28 rake is just silly for urban use fixed gear. I've never been in a crit so can't speak on what the needs of that use are but I ride daily in traffic and I wouldn't ride this for that purpose.

Per MASH SF:
"One year of testing in the most demanding criterium races with the collaboration of MASH-SF riders. Parallax is the evolution of the most demanding urban track frames."

You're only one person and can't realistically expect your likes/dislikes to apply to others.

I know six people riding Parallax frames on the street who all love them, one of which just completed the 545-mile AIDS Lifecycle ride from SF to LA for the second year on his, who says it's the best handling bike he's ever ridden on the street. Coincidentally, he's also the same person I mentioned earlier in this thread who has such gnarly toe overlap, his crank arm hits his tire.

Well, to each his own. Personally, I'd rather have less toe overlap on the street, recognizing that a smaller track bike will likely have some overlap with track geo. So, were I to buy a Cinelli aluminum frameset, it would most likely be a Vigorelli.

I can see this frame being great for longer rides. It's also probably a missle on the downhills and around corners goin 35 mph. However no frame is designed to do all things well. Concessions must be made. A great crit frame does not equal a great street city frame. They require different handling characteristics.

I personally think the lowest bottom bracket drop possible that won't strike with 165 mm crank arms results in the best short area handling. Think throwing the rear of the bike around with your ass and the saddle.

Also 28 mm rake while very stable at high speeds is going to be sluggish at low speed maneuvering. It's a trade off.

Rake has to be matched to head tube angle in order to get proper trail. Using a fork with a lot of rake on a frame with a steep head tube angle will result in unstable handling. I have several track frames with 28mm rake forks and steep head tube angles, and the handling is not overly sluggish.

Well...you clearly know everything so I'll get off the internet now and do something else.

Have a great Monday, everyone!

Why so lugubrious Scrod?! Just one opinionated bikers take..... Anyway this bike has a 75 deg head tube angle so the trail is like 62/63. So like I said that makes this bike more of a high speed good handler than a quick low speed adjuster of a front end.

I think crit racers are more concerned with increasing their ability to continue pedaling around corners.

Yep agreed it's a fine crit frame. The Vigorelli makes more sense for city use. I think people confuse crit use and think it's an urban traffic bike.

I do begin apologising for reviving such an old thread but because I am looking to buy this frame I am a bit puzzled about one thing. [MENTION=164476]Scrodzilla[/MENTION] mentioned that a friend has the 50cm with a crankset of 165mm and that the tyre a 700/23c touched the crank. Now the size chart show a difference or only 9mm between the 52cm and the 50cm between the bottom bracket and the fork. Now looking at the picture posted by [MENTION=385036]Owlex[/MENTION] it seems like there is way more than 9mm between the tyre and the crankset, can someone please explain? I am assuming that the tyre and crankset size in the picture is the same as mentioned by [MENTION=164476]Scrodzilla[/MENTION]

[MENTION=466948]_debo[/MENTION]


I just went out to my garage and messed around with mine. 52cm frameset, 170mm SRAM Omnium crankset. I can make the very tip of the spd-sl pedal touch a fully inflated 700x25 Specialized Espoir tire. I cannot get the crankarm to rub the tire but it's very close.

Don't know what more I can tell you about it. Still love the frame :shrug:

[MENTION=385036]Owlex[/MENTION] thanks a lot about it appreciated, I do love it too, the thing is that I very much likely need the 50cm and I couldn't get my head around scrodzilla post especially after seeing your picture. So I am trying to really understand, even more now, based on your measurements, how is it possible that a 165 crankarm touches on a 50cm and with smaller tyres. I mean, if I have some toe overlap I don't mind but the crank arm would be insane.

When you say close how much to you mean? Millimitres or centimetres? In the pictures it looks like a good 2 or 3 centimetres when straight.

https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/cinel...lax-2014-19265

only if you put your verse down, flip it, and reverse it.

Different cranksets have different Q-factors, which plays into how much toe overlap will be present. On my friend's 50cm Parallax, he is using Campy Record Pista crankset which has a very narrow Q-factor, increasing the tow overlap.

Thanks for the explanation. It's still crazy to think that the crank arm touches though... I think worst case scenario I might change the fork and get something with more rake like a columbus tusk air (I love that fork), hoping that it's not going to ruin everything.

You'll decrease trail and that'll affect the steering and handling. I'm guessing it's already on the "nimble" side, so you may push it into twitchy.

Why not look at other frames if you don't want crank overlap.

I know... speaking of which does the trail have a range? I mean is there a way to say, trails from X mm to Y mm give you this behaviour and between Z mm and W mm will give you this other behaviour?

Because I fell in love with this one. Also it's not that I don't want it... if there is no viable solution I'll keep it, but I can at least try right :-)