What kind of GXP BB do you guys run? Put about 1500 miles on the stock GXP BB that came with my S300s and it's started to click when out of the saddle or under heavy load. I've cleaned/re-greased it and made sure everything is tightened down. I know a lot of folks move to square taper cranksets because of similar issues. But for those of you that do run GXP, is it worth upgrading to a nicer Hope/Chris King BB or will I have the same issues based on the GXP design? I'm fine with buying a new cheap BB every 1.5k miles or so, just didn't know if theres a permanent solution other than going with a square taper solution.

My S300's clicked as well and it was loose chainring bolts. Tightenwd down and all good. I swapped the stock BB for the SRAM team GXP and it has been going for 2,000+ miles with no issues at all. I bought it from LBS for around $30, but Im sure you can find cheaper. EBay has been known to have ceramic gxp bb's for cheap as well.

Awesome, thanks for getting back to me. I'm using a Sugino chainring with my S300s so I'm going to make sure none of those bolt loosened when I get home. I'll also do some research on the team GXP BB. Thanks for the info!

Anyone...

Odds are they're related to production than anything about the finished product.

For example, anodizing rims requires submersion in baths of various chemicals, Air vent and drain holes are necessary if the rim is anodized after being completed but before drilling, or if the rim has corner channels that are separate from drilled area, as is common on many single wall rims with pinned construction.

Multiple drain holes are often drilled to speed draining, or because a single hole can get air bound and not drain properly.

Edit, I didn't see a clear picture when I posted earlier. Looking again, there's another possibility. Those rims are joined with pins in the channels along the outer edges. So, one purpose for the holes is as a stop for the pin, to ensure that it doesn't get pushed into one side rather than evenly engage both sides. Also, since the pin is blocking the channel added holes are needed for draining if the rim is anodized after being formed.

Here's a newb question. Why are there so many fixed gear frames which are obviously meant for the street and not the velodrome not produced with two bottle mount braze ons? And why, on the frames that have one set of braze ons, is it usually mounted on the seat tube and not the down tube?

I've been browsing for a possible future build. My requirements are a quality butted steel tubeset with classic straight TT geometry, two bottle mounts and preferably top tube cable guides since I like to mount frame pumps and the clamp on mounts will probably hit it. I've concluded that a frame that also has a pump peg will never materialize. Not talking about a $2000 custom frame but one that is reasonably priced like a Wabi, Surly, ect.

Except for the pump peg, the Kilo WT frame meets your requirements, except for the smallest size that has a sloping top tube. I have one and it makes for a great long distance SSFG touring bike.

Yeah, I like the Kilo WT. I almost bought one. I don't really like the dropouts, they're kind of cheap looking. The Wabi Classic would be perfect if it had brake cable guides. Perhaps I could glue small pieces of foam on my frame pump where it would contact the clamp on guides.

Here's a post from the thread next to this one.

Sloping TT, but has cable stops and the pump peg.


https://handsomecycles.com/products/fredward-frameset

I don't know why they are there but i would fill them with epoxy or J-B Weld so they don't cause an issue with flats.

That one is cool but not really my style. I think the Gunnar Street Dog would fit the bill.

Lickbike.com | Gunnar Street Dog single speed road frame

+1 on the Gunnar street dog. I was in the middle of ordering a custom Roadie when I realized a 14 series Waterford came out to $50 cheaper lol.
Anyway where can I find this part?

It goes here

The bolt or the other piece? Or both? What are the hubs in the picture?

It is in your hand.

Chances are it is a standard thread. Take the one you have to a hardware store and find a bolt whose thread matches and find a suitable washer. Get them in stainless steel if possible. If it doesn't exactly match the other bolt, buy two so they match if that's important to you.

The whole shibang. They're some Japanese hubs I got on ebay, Novatrc I think

Thanks JohnDT!

How are they? Kinda exactly what I'm looking for.....

Then, these should work >>> https://wabicycles.com/collections/c...nt-wheel-bolts

I took the liberty to correct your spelling.

Have you tried getting a pair of knickers? Having a pair to cover your knees in cold weather feels wonderful. They are a little harder to find than most bike shorts, but Under Armour has some really nice ones, and you can throw a pair of bike shorts over them.

Have you checked your saddle height and fore/aft position on the saddle? Bike fit can be a culprit for knee pain too.

Also, over-riding can contribute too. How often do you ride ss, and how many miles?

Dave

Nope, don't do it! Honestly, it has nothing to do with your age and more to do with what's specifically going on with your knees. You can have a 20 year old with cartilage/tendon/meniscus problems that could cause them great pain if riding fixed as well. Hell, I'll be 54 and still do all my Centuries/Brevets fixed in a 54x16 gear.* When I'm in shape I can flip my wheel on calm days and run a 54x14. Knees don't give a shout too much.



*it's flat with only rollers here

I'm 62 years old, and have ridden multiple fixed-gear century rides.

If your knees are giving you problems, look to shorter crank arms and lower gears. There's no age barrier to FG/SS riding if you use the right equipment.

Hey y'all just wondering if I could ask for some advice. I've been toying with the idea of buying something that isn't a 40 year old gas pipe boat anchor (not that I don't love my boat anchors lol). I came across a custom built conversion for sale and I don't know enough about it to decide if it's worth it. It might be a size to big for me but i'm willing to go try it out if it's a good deal. honestly the only thing that attracted me is the adorable star paint job that I assume is done well because the poster says it's a "400 dollar custom paint job". They say it's a Wheeler frame from the 80s with the drop outs changed for track ends. If this bike is what they say it is shouldn't they be asking much more? here is the add for refrence: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/gu...xie/1321456384 thanks!

The stamps at the top of the chainstays seem to confirm the make. I don't know anything about Wheelers, but it looks like a cool, well-built bike and a decent deal -- if it fits, that is.

It is a customized bike. When you customize anything unless you are some one like Peter Weigle you lose value.