Asking again since it got ignored

' install the wheel and never ever change your cog and make sure to always install wheel in same spot so missing paint is hidden under the nut." This is my favorite suggestion LOL. Maybe i'll remove the paint from my dropout and coat it in something, like maybe a polyurethane or chem film. I probably shouldn't worry about it, just a pet peeve lol.

Dave

I've never understood why people are so afraid of their dropouts getting scratched. It's a bike.

You're already doing it the only way there is.

I've done it this way...

Cleats explained: How to set them up correctly

...and then adjusted for comfort from there.


-Tim-

Thanks fellas. I was hoping there was an easier method.

I use those felt rings they sell at auto parts stores for use on battery terminals.

That's clever. No slipping though?

I agree. Just keep tweaking until you feel comfortable. When you do find it, mark it on your shoe in case you need to change your cleats. My 60 year old knees have a small window of comfort. Once I find it, I am careful not to loose it.

C'mon... Who would really do that?

Just tell me you waited to make your auto parts run until after slippage concerns were addressed.

I was actually thinking about the application and pondering whether it would work or not. Yeah, the felt is smooth and slippery. But the teeth on a serrated track nut/washer might deform the felt and still bite "though" well enough to hold the wheel. Maybe. I'm kinda curious to know if it would hold. If I had to bet money though, I'd bet on slippage.

Hey, you changed your name. I just caught that.

You ever get the pedals sorted out on that lovely bike? I'd like a pic so I can have some sense of closure on the issue.

I did. Wanted to move away from real-name associations and such. Mission accomplished.

The pedals are still on there. Was focused on getting a San Marco Regal first (that Concor was on its last legs to begin with, then we got caught in a winter rain and it has now totally gone to ****)... so that arrives Monday. Still trying to settle on what the right pedal might be. Whatever it is, it's gotta be Doc Marten's friendly. But yes. Wheels are turning. Pics will happen. Closure shall be achieved.

Whatever else is true, it does carry the added advantage of corrosion resistance under absurdly acidic conditions. What bike couldn't use that? And hey, if stopping at the top of hills to realign the rear or avoiding hard acceleration from a standstill is the price paid for that measure of security, dammit I am IN.
(Allegedly.)

Ha

That just gave me an idea, to get some of those rings, saturate them in grease, and put them around the BB spindle to keep salt grunge out of the BB during the winter. I wonder what the downsides would be.

I don't see any, except maybe they don't hold their shape since they're unsupported felt. Try it.
...FOR SCIENCE!

So I got my Fuji Classic running again, and I've been playing around with the chainrings I have. I've settled on 48/17 for day to day commuting and work and 46/17 for weekend fixie warrior time. I like to climb, so I was thinking of having a 42/17 on it for hilly riding, but I noticed that when I placed the 42, the wheel settled at the very end of the drops, with some slack. Can I get away with this? Does it matter that it's cromoly, or will the drops be bent?

The design implies that the entire length of the slot is usable (as long as we agree that the entire circumference of the track nut is on the dropout). If that weren't the case, the dropout would be shorter to eliminate the unusable section.

Guess that mean I'll be huffing around the Silver Lake hills this weekend! Thanks.

I need to add a half-link to a chain that is joined together by a quick-link...

Can anybody here tell me if there is any real reason that I should not just put the half-link onto an end of the chain right next to where the quick-link goes to close it up? Or is it better to insert the half-link into the chain somewhere away from the quick link?

TIA...

Anyone have experience with Bushnell eccentric bottom brackets?

Good. Bad. Issues?

I'm looking at an application which could use a Bushnell Featherweight.


-Tim-

I think my headset is loose again, as I get some play in the fork when I hold the brakes and rock it back and forth.
What do I need to fix this myself? It's a threaded headset I believe - since it's on my 84 Raleigh.

I like to use an adjustable plumber's wrench to tighten the lockring.

You will also need a special wrench (park tool makes one) that is very thin to adjust the upper bearing cup. I will look up which model it is.

After you have the wrenches, take off the lockring, take out the stem, and inspect your bearing rings and races (they should be smooth). Most likely you just have an adjustment issue. Threaded headsets are kind of finicky.

As long as your bearings are smooth and lived, screw the upper bearing race onto the fork by hand, then gently snug it with the headset wrench. Hold that wrench with one hand (so the bearing race doesn't move), then torque heavy on the lockring with your other hand. After the headset is tight, make sure it moves smoothly. If not, loosen and try again. It might take a few tries, but will definitely be easier with 2 people.

Dave