Ask the Community
03-11-18 | 04:16 PM
#551
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 97
I like to use an adjustable plumber's wrench to tighten the lockring.
You will also need a special wrench (park tool makes one) that is very thin to adjust the upper bearing cup. I will look up which model it is.
After you have the wrenches, take off the lockring, take out the stem, and inspect your bearing rings and races (they should be smooth). Most likely you just have an adjustment issue. Threaded headsets are kind of finicky.
As long as your bearings are smooth and lived, screw the upper bearing race onto the fork by hand, then gently snug it with the headset wrench. Hold that wrench with one hand (so the bearing race doesn't move), then torque heavy on the lockring with your other hand. After the headset is tight, make sure it moves smoothly. If not, loosen and try again. It might take a few tries, but will definitely be easier with 2 people.
Dave
You will also need a special wrench (park tool makes one) that is very thin to adjust the upper bearing cup. I will look up which model it is.
After you have the wrenches, take off the lockring, take out the stem, and inspect your bearing rings and races (they should be smooth). Most likely you just have an adjustment issue. Threaded headsets are kind of finicky.
As long as your bearings are smooth and lived, screw the upper bearing race onto the fork by hand, then gently snug it with the headset wrench. Hold that wrench with one hand (so the bearing race doesn't move), then torque heavy on the lockring with your other hand. After the headset is tight, make sure it moves smoothly. If not, loosen and try again. It might take a few tries, but will definitely be easier with 2 people.
Dave
Dave
03-11-18 | 04:59 PM
#553
bill nyecycles
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 359
From: Houston TX
cool, thanks! I'll order one! I think it should be ok as far as it's quality since it's pretty new. I think it just needs some adjustment after riding some.
Yes totally. But it's such a pain in the butt to put the bike in the car and bring it over there to have them do a tiny adjustment when I can just do it myself.
Yes totally. But it's such a pain in the butt to put the bike in the car and bring it over there to have them do a tiny adjustment when I can just do it myself.
03-11-18 | 05:24 PM
#554
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,948
Likes: 400
From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Yeah, the one on my SS worked itself loose so much that I just started tightening it by hand before taking it out. Never really doing it the right way probably had something to do with how often it came loose, but eh. Now I pretty much just avoid threaded headsets.
03-11-18 | 05:33 PM
#555
bill nyecycles
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 359
From: Houston TX
Isn't a threaded headset kind of the default for older bikes?
03-11-18 | 05:36 PM
#556
bill nyecycles
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 359
From: Houston TX
Follow up question - where can I find drop bars that look like the ones on this bike, taken from the vintage Raleigh thread...
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
[QUOTE=SuperLJ;14986632]
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
[QUOTE=SuperLJ;14986632]
03-11-18 | 05:54 PM
#557
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,948
Likes: 400
From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
They are, yeah. My current active duty bikes are both newer, though, and I have a 1" threadless headset that I'm planning on using on a future build which will probably be a vintage steel frame. On the bars question, look for randonneur bars. These ones from VO were the first thing that came to mind: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ando-handlebar
03-11-18 | 07:50 PM
#558
“part-timer”
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 659
Likes: 232
From: Tidewater VA
Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1978 Bertin C35, 1982 Trek 614, 1983 Trek 620, 1984 Nishiki Seral, 1995 Mercian Ko’M, 1998 Fisher HKEK, 2000 Rivendell RS, 2001 Heron Touring, 2016 Nobilette Custom
Follow up question - where can I find drop bars that look like the ones on this bike, taken from the vintage Raleigh thread...
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...-4-handlebars/
Pricey, and worth every penny. Available in 25.4 or 31.8.
03-11-18 | 08:11 PM
#559
bill nyecycles
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 359
From: Houston TX
Those are vintage GB randonneur bars. They come up occasionally on ebay. A few makers still offer rando bars and I've tried them all, but these are the ones you want:
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...-4-handlebars/
Pricey, and worth every penny. Available in 25.4 or 31.8.
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...-4-handlebars/
Pricey, and worth every penny. Available in 25.4 or 31.8.
I do have a vintage GB stem on an older Raleigh (1974) I am rebuilding - should I assume that's a 25.4? Was that standard before 26? It doesn't say in the catalog on Sheldon Brown's site what the size is.
03-12-18 | 03:20 AM
#561
“part-timer”
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 659
Likes: 232
From: Tidewater VA
Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1978 Bertin C35, 1982 Trek 614, 1983 Trek 620, 1984 Nishiki Seral, 1995 Mercian Ko’M, 1998 Fisher HKEK, 2000 Rivendell RS, 2001 Heron Touring, 2016 Nobilette Custom
Your GB stem is 25.4. Velo Orange makes 26.0 rando bars. Not the same quality or comfort as the Compass/Nitto bars, but okay. Be aware that rando bars, especially vintage ones, can be very narrow across the tops.
03-12-18 | 03:23 AM
#562
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 41
From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
03-12-18 | 04:48 AM
#563
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Looking for advice
Hey guys.
Have been looking to replace my Merida Crossway as i keep breaking spokes.
Have been looking at a Specialized Sirrus or a higher model crossway.
Most of my riding is paths with the odd path being primarily stones which is where i think the bike doesn't like it.
Checked out a few Mountain Bikes but they feel sluggish compared to the thinner tires of my merida.
Advice on bikes to check out that can handle a bit of off road along with being quick on paths?
Looked at a Giant disc 2 along as well.
Have been looking to replace my Merida Crossway as i keep breaking spokes.
Have been looking at a Specialized Sirrus or a higher model crossway.
Most of my riding is paths with the odd path being primarily stones which is where i think the bike doesn't like it.
Checked out a few Mountain Bikes but they feel sluggish compared to the thinner tires of my merida.
Advice on bikes to check out that can handle a bit of off road along with being quick on paths?
Looked at a Giant disc 2 along as well.
03-12-18 | 11:54 AM
#564
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 41
From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
Hey guys.
Have been looking to replace my Merida Crossway as i keep breaking spokes.
Have been looking at a Specialized Sirrus or a higher model crossway.
Most of my riding is paths with the odd path being primarily stones which is where i think the bike doesn't like it.
Checked out a few Mountain Bikes but they feel sluggish compared to the thinner tires of my merida.
Advice on bikes to check out that can handle a bit of off road along with being quick on paths?
Looked at a Giant disc 2 along as well.
Have been looking to replace my Merida Crossway as i keep breaking spokes.
Have been looking at a Specialized Sirrus or a higher model crossway.
Most of my riding is paths with the odd path being primarily stones which is where i think the bike doesn't like it.
Checked out a few Mountain Bikes but they feel sluggish compared to the thinner tires of my merida.
Advice on bikes to check out that can handle a bit of off road along with being quick on paths?
Looked at a Giant disc 2 along as well.
If your spokes keep breaking that is an indication of poorly built (by a robot) wheels. If you like the bike, why not just have a qualified person fix your wheels? It's probably just a matter of increasing and evening out the spoke tension.
03-12-18 | 12:17 PM
#565
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Is there a difference front dropouts for track wheels vs road wheels?
I never really thought about it but want to make sure I'm not missing something.
When I bought the fork for my fixed gear bike it was just a fork - no mention made of whether it was road or track specific so my guess is no.
-Tim-
I never really thought about it but want to make sure I'm not missing something.
When I bought the fork for my fixed gear bike it was just a fork - no mention made of whether it was road or track specific so my guess is no.
-Tim-
03-12-18 | 12:28 PM
#566
Thread Starter
Veteran Racer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,854
Likes: 913
From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Is there a difference front dropouts for track wheels vs road wheels?
I never really thought about it but want to make sure I'm not missing something.
When I bought the fork for my fixed gear bike it was just a fork - no mention made of whether it was road or track specific so my guess is no.
I never really thought about it but want to make sure I'm not missing something.
When I bought the fork for my fixed gear bike it was just a fork - no mention made of whether it was road or track specific so my guess is no.
03-12-18 | 12:37 PM
#567
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Followup if I may... Do you have any thoughts on fork with a carbon fiber dropout being used with a 15 mm track nut or are the clamping forces similar to what would be seen with a quick release?
Assume proper tightening, not standing on the end of the wrench or an air gun or something silly like that.
-Tim-
03-12-18 | 12:53 PM
#568
Thread Starter
Veteran Racer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,854
Likes: 913
From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Excellent. Gracias mi hermano.
Followup if I may... Do you have any thoughts on fork with a carbon fiber dropout being used with a 15 mm track nut or are the clamping forces similar to what would be seen with a quick release?
Assume proper tightening, not standing on the end of the wrench or an air gun or something silly like that.
Followup if I may... Do you have any thoughts on fork with a carbon fiber dropout being used with a 15 mm track nut or are the clamping forces similar to what would be seen with a quick release?
Assume proper tightening, not standing on the end of the wrench or an air gun or something silly like that.
Anyways, you don’t need tighten the axle very much on a front wheel, so using track nuts is not a problem if you just tighten them snug + 1/4 turn, or just tight enough so they don’t loosen up on their own.
03-12-18 | 01:54 PM
#569
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
The flash of high-end parts can sometimes blind me to reality and it is nice to have a disinterested third party to bounce things off.
I really appreciate you taking the few minutes.
-Tim-
03-13-18 | 06:47 PM
#570
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
[QUOTE=the sci guy;20217020]Follow up question - where can I find drop bars that look like the ones on this bike, taken from the vintage Raleigh thread...
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
Nitto makes a handlebar that is pretty similar too.
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
Nitto makes a handlebar that is pretty similar too.
03-14-18 | 12:55 PM
#571
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 2
From: Williamsburg, Tennesse.
Bikes: All have flats.
've been riding my steel 49cm Fuji Track for the better part of 3 weeks now, and I notice that it feels longer, and has more reach. Out of curiosity, I took off the bars and stem, and placed them on my 47cm [more like a 49]Kilo TT and the cockpit feels way more snug. Any geometry heads wanna figure this? I have an old RB-1 road fork on the Kilo, so does that make a difference? Or are there some fundamentals between the two? I was thinking of finding a Track fork for the Kilo, but if it's going to alter the geometry closer to the Fuji Track, I'd rather not.
03-14-18 | 01:15 PM
#572
Old fart
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,347
Likes: 5,254
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Follow up question - where can I find drop bars that look like the ones on this bike, taken from the vintage Raleigh thread...
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
They have a slight dip in the middle and a slight flare. I've seen them on older road bikes, but I haven't seen them online anywhere. Help?
I want a set for my SS I mentioned above with the loose headset.
03-17-18 | 02:38 PM
#573
I AM AI
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,286
Likes: 1,164
From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
I've decided to go ahead and get a White Industries FW now that my single speed setup is looking less temporary every day, and if I'm dropping a pile o' cash on a top-notch component I wanna get it right. So a question:
Is there any real advantage (not purely aesthetic) to running a larger ring/FW combination vs smaller? Right now I'm at 42/16; the larger version with nearly the same gear inches would be 48/18. The only obvious difference I see is that a 16t setup leaves more room to adjust gearing upward via chainring size, while an 18t is the opposite. Anything else I should consider?
Is there any real advantage (not purely aesthetic) to running a larger ring/FW combination vs smaller? Right now I'm at 42/16; the larger version with nearly the same gear inches would be 48/18. The only obvious difference I see is that a 16t setup leaves more room to adjust gearing upward via chainring size, while an 18t is the opposite. Anything else I should consider?
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
03-17-18 | 02:49 PM
#574
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 41
From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
I've decided to go ahead and get a White Industries FW now that my single speed setup is looking less temporary every day, and if I'm dropping a pile o' cash on a top-notch component I wanna get it right. So a question:
Is there any real advantage (not purely aesthetic) to running a larger ring/FW combination vs smaller? Right now I'm at 42/16; the larger version with nearly the same gear inches would be 48/18. The only obvious difference I see is that a 16t setup leaves more room to adjust gearing upward via chainring size, while an 18t is the opposite. Anything else I should consider?
Is there any real advantage (not purely aesthetic) to running a larger ring/FW combination vs smaller? Right now I'm at 42/16; the larger version with nearly the same gear inches would be 48/18. The only obvious difference I see is that a 16t setup leaves more room to adjust gearing upward via chainring size, while an 18t is the opposite. Anything else I should consider?
48/18 needs more chain = heavier again
48/18 needs more lube = more work = higher maintenance cost
48/18 = quieter
48/18 = smoother
48/18 sprockets last longer
03-17-18 | 06:29 PM
#575
Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Oakland, CA
Bikes: Late 80's Eddy Merckx Corsa w/Campy Chorus group, Campy Atlanta 96 wheelset
Price check: 2003 Bianchi Pista Concept
Being that the original Pista Concepts have been out of production for a while - the price point (more or less what someone is actually willing to pay) has been hard to gauge.
So I ask this - if you had always wanted an original Concept and you were able to purchase a pretty minty 03 Concept with no seat tube clamp issues and clean paint, what would you pay?
Thanks for any input.
Being that the original Pista Concepts have been out of production for a while - the price point (more or less what someone is actually willing to pay) has been hard to gauge.
So I ask this - if you had always wanted an original Concept and you were able to purchase a pretty minty 03 Concept with no seat tube clamp issues and clean paint, what would you pay?
Thanks for any input.