R+E cycles Shiftless is semi-custom (to full on custom if you want) and a very good deal! Shiftless Track Bikes - Rodriguez track bikes for Men and women
I am thinking about getting one and getting a full carbon fork but they have a nice alu steerer version that is just fine and dandy. Just give them a buzz or email and they can set you up right. You can also get different tubing and make it really light.

This is compelling. Thank you.

and I sent them an email with some ideas to see if this is workable.


-Tim-

Tim,

Have you looked at the All City Big Block? It is track geometry, but All City is marketing it as a fast and comfortable frame. The fork is chromoly, but could of course be changed. There are cable stops on the frame, but only 1 set of water bottle brazeons. Might be worth a look:

https://allcitycycles.com/bikes/big_block

Plus the paint is pretty amazing!

Did Wabi give a lead time for the next batch of lightning frames?

Dave

No worries, they make some great stuff.

I spoke with them today via phone.

Looks like what I want might be within reach and I'm sending them a detailed description with some measurements for a firm quote to find out for sure.

One guy on the road bike forum has five of their bikes.


-Tim-

I'm replacing the entire drive-train on the Kilo. Going with an Omnium crankset and will also need a new cog (18 & 19T) and chain, both in black. Suggestions? Most likely will be ordering from Retro.

KMC 710SL chain is a good choice and comes in black, I've run the gold version on 3 bikes and like it lots. The EAI cogs are nice if you don't mind spending a little extra, also been running an All-City 19t track cog on my Pake with no complaints, less money. I don't know if skid spots are important to you but 48 x 18 only gives you 3. Also something with the way it wears the drive train. I would suggest going 17t & 19t. Or going with a 47t/49t chain ring instead. I run 47t and it's nice being able to choose any cog and get maximum skids spots and spread the wear out evenly.

Thanks for the suggestion, I had that very chain on my wish list.

Nope, don't skid, never have. Too old for that. But thanks anyway.

Awesome sauce, hope it works out!

Five bikes??? Dang I want to have that dudes bank account. I simply just want one or two of their bikes, an Outlaw Fixed Gear (basically what you are looking for but the ultralight version) and a Ti touring bike with S+S couplers, disc brakes, thru axles and internal/integrated dynamo wiring. I am but a simple bike nut.

Well, the guy has five bikes between him and his wife.

Those S3 tubes are scary light. I'd be afraid of denting it.

My employer announced a $1500 award for a technical certification required by one of our vendors if it is achieved by 4/30 so my motivation is right there. Time to crack the books and earn a new bike.


-Tim-

Yeah that would be the one thing but a steel frame that is 3lbs is pretty nifty.

Get that $1500, buy that bike and keep on truckin'. I wish my employer would get me some money in larger quantities. I've got a fever and the only prescription is more bikes or at least parts, I am good on bikes at the moment.

I'm good on bikes too, trying to save for other things. I would like a TT bike and a new track bike but those probably aren't going to happen this year. I just finished building up a Wabi, on the other hand.

Can we see some pics?

Dave

My tires are shot and thinking of going to the Panaracer Gravelking (not SK) in a 26mm.

Good tire for urban streets with possible rain?

Are these true to size or run wider?

My usual go-to tire is the Conti 4000s

Great tires. My new set of 32mm gumwalls measured at about 30mm on 23mm rims. I suspect they may stretch and widen a little over time. I find them to be durable and fast rolling tires. I had far fewer flats than I did last year since switching.

Panaracer Gravelking are natural rubber and likely to stretch over the first 36-ish hours or so, approximately-ish.

GKSK's on my Niner were 38 mm when mounted and puffed out to over 41 mm the next day.


-Tim-

Is there a way to protect rear dropouts from damage from wheels with nuts? Maybe rubber washers?

Dave

I'ts always good to washer your nuts, but not with rubber.

Track nuts are crafty and have a serrated washer built in so the pair can hang tight and not go sliding around, which no one wants.

Wouldn't that still damage the paint?

Dave

If the paint on your dropouts doesn't get damaged, your wheel isn't on tight enough.

Anyone have the wabi sub 1500's? Wabi claims their bolt on wheels don't damage the dropouts. Does it really work?

Dave

Yes when properly torqued it will remove some paint. When you swap cogs you get all those nice circles . Just the way it is, shows you use the bike which in itself is a good look.

Some frames have the paint strategically missing from the dropout area. I like the idea, just never had a frame that came this way. Can't think of a way to cleanly remove said paint to replicate the look. Maybe use a steel dropout insert from an aluminum frame to make a reverse template and sand it off.

I'm assuming they mean they won't chew up the metal, but I don't know. Seems like kind of a dubious claim either way, and I really feel that paint on dropouts is not something anyone anywhere should be concerned about.

Wabi Dropout Protectors


Yes, I have Sub 15's on my bike with the Wabi dropout protectors.

Any wheel will chew a painted dropout. Don't worry about it.

I use the dropout protectors not to protect the paint but because the Bianch Pista has stamped dropouts only 6 mm thick. The Wabi fasteners are designed for thicker dropouts, at least 8 mm and they would not clamp down on the thinner stamped dropouts on the Pista. I could have just gone to Lowes and picked up shorter bolts but when I called the former owner of Wabi about the issue he put the dropout protectors in an envelope and mailed them to me no charge. Richard Snook is that kind of guy.




The best solution are proper replaceable dropouts like this Cinelli.



Some replaceable dropouts are works of art.


-Tim-

Not sure what Wabi means, their bolts with a serrated washer look similar to what my All-City New Sheriff hubs use and you will still remove some paint. Maybe they are comparing them to the regular serrated axle nuts you sometimes see on BMX bikes. The ones without the built in washer like “track nuts” have. Those will obviously chew into the dropout and can’t see a good reason to use them.

It’s painted metal and your bolting something up against it with a good amount of force, you can’t expect it to stay pristine. If it bothers you that much get a an aluminum frame with steel inserts, or a steel frame with the paint removed from the dropout area, or remove said paint along the dropout as I suggested, OR install the wheel and never ever change your cog and make sure to always install wheel in same spot so missing paint is hidden under the nut.