I don't even have a 2-D printer, but that would be cool. I'll most likely be trying out some ziptie rigging, see what I can come up with.

What always worked for me was to just use electrical tape. Good for a solid night session -- Easy to remove and doesnt leave residue behind. So.. Just tape the light to your bar in other words

What light we talkin about here?

Axiom Lazer 500. The mount broke while I was riding last night. Ideally I want to figure out something I can easily remove and put back on for commuting type stuff. I have a smaller spare light to use in the meantime, but it's **** at actually lighting the road on dark routes.

I am currently riding 48x17, which is 74 gear inches. Is there any advantage to having smaller sprockets, other than the reduced weight?

Example does 43x15 (75 gear inches) differ much from 49x17 (also 75 gear inches)?

Better curb hopping/dropping clearance.

Have you tried polypropylene based glue? (like Gorilla glue). I had really good luck with that on a cracked headlight mount. Moisten the two pieces, apply glue, and then clamp them together. I was even able to torque it down, and it didn't break!

Dave

Good idea, I fixed my dresser with gorilla glue a few years ago. I'll see if I have any still lying around.

Smaller sprockets will wear proportionally faster.

I'm having trouble finding tube for some deep v rims. I can't locate long presa valve tubes in a large diameter.
Question is;
Can I install a 35 mm tube in a 40mm tire? I know I can but will it cause any issues?

It will probably be ok. The tube is quite flexible and will simply expand to fit inside the tire.

Cool, That was my train of thought but I wasn't really sure if stress would over take the tube or not.
Thank you T.T.

A tube is like a balloon, which can expand a lot before it bursts. Once the tube is constrained by the tire, the only stress it sees is from direct pressure, and as long as the tire casing is not damaged it will not fail. Tubes are often rated for a range of tire sizes anyway, such as 35-43mm, so going from 35mm to 40mm as in your situation is certainly not a problem, IMO.

Creaking sound - need help

So, I am having a creaking sound that is coming from either the cranks or BB, and I am not sure which is the culprit or what I should be looking for to fix.

I get a slight creaking sound on the left side crank when applying a lot of torque, either with forward pedaling or backwards. If I mash the pedals to go forward I will get a slight creaking that does not continue as I keep pedaling. That is until I apply enough back pedal torque, in which case it slightly creaks again. Then again, if I apply forward motion torque it slightly creaks again. So it only happens when significant torque is applied in either direction. Does that make sense???

To me it seems like something is slightly loose, but the crank arm is tightened to spec, and the BB is tightened to spec.

Any clues as to what I should start with? Go easy on me, I am newish to the world of cycling.

Thanks!

Make sure your pedals are gutentite.

Might be pedal bearings. I had a similar situation recently, and was convinced it was the crank, but not so much. If you have an extra set of pedals, try swapping them out.

Dave

Thanks guys! Now that I think about it, I think I forgot to put the washer on the left pedal when installing onto the crank. Maybe that's the issue?
Also, should I grease the pedal threads prior to install? Or loctite? I never know what should be used where. lol

Ok, so it's not the pedals. They are plenty tight, and I still get the creaking when pushing on the crank arm itself.

I gotta ride it home from work, and then I'll take the cranks off and inspect.

Look for possible cracks at the pedal holes and and at the tapers.

I've read that teflon tape on the bottom bracket threads will help fight creaks if that is the culprit.

I'll add one to the already large bucket of standard things to check for squeaks/creaks in that area:

If your tires just barely clear the chain stays, pedaling hard can deform the stays (or possibly the wheel; I'm not exactly sure about the mechanics of this) enough to rub one side against the tire. Solutions are to 1) true your wheel perfectly to ensure optimal clearance all around, 2) move the wheel back in the tracks ends to get more chain stay clearance (they get wider as you go back), and 3) check your frame alignment and adjust (if it's steel).

Does anybody here recall the character string to search the google for particular users' posts in this forum?

TIA...

Stick this in the google:

iamsam site:https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/

If the creak only occurs when changing the direction of the applied pedaling force, I'd be checking chain-ring bolts or cog tightness.

This morning before leaving for my commute, I attempted to find the answer. I took out the crank bolt on the left side and it was pretty dirty and gunky. I went to remove the crank arm, and could not get that damn thing off for the life of me. Feels like it might've wedged itself onto the spindle, but I'm not sure. Maybe I am missing something in my haste.

So all I could do was clean and grease the crank arm bolt and reinstall. That seams to have fixed 99% of the creak. I faintly heard it again at the end of my commute this morning, but it could just need to be tightened a little more after riding it.


Attempted to inspect this morning, but could not get the crank arms off.


Wheel is steady in the dropouts with plenty of tire clearance. The creaking is definitely coming from the left side crank arm somehow.

Cog and chainring bolts are tight. The sound is very distinctly coming from the left side crank arm.


I will try to remove them again when I am not so pressed for time. I would think the crank arm should easily slide of the spindle, unless it has been wedged somehow.

I should mention I have the SRAM S300 Courier Crankset like here
https://www.retro-gression.com/colle...-s300-crankset

I'm confused by your statements. If you have a square tapered spindle, the crank will require a puller to get it off. It will not just "slide off" and will indeed be too tight to remove w/o a puller.