Kona Unit SS MTB, I think it's about 2003-ish vintage, but not really sure. Pics from the FS ad when I bought it. For an older MTB, it's in very clean shape. It is pretty darn light. People are suprised when they pick it up. Helps it is a sz small frame.

DOT is tearing down the I 10 overpass ... it's a traffic nightmare BUT as long as part of it is still standing it makes a great downhill ramp ride .. pic is on the edge about 50' up

My main ride. The stem-cap Crane bell is new for 2025.

is this fixed? Or free?
my belt drive knowledge is quite thin.
eccentric bottom bracket?

2Speed S-A kickback - checking out the bridge work along Hines Dr.

I have it set up free, running about 73 gear inches. Tensioning achieved via the track ends. I really like the belt for its silence and ease of maintenance--not to mention longevity. Power transfer also feels very direct and efficient. Cleaning just needs a brush and water, and on the odd occasion that a spot develops a little squeak, a splash of water resolves it--nothing like "lubing" the "chain" with one's water bottle!

Bridgestone 550

So begins road construction season in the midwest…

My BOB JACKSON - pics taken inside and outside to see color difference.

Old Guerciotti that I painted myself and then cobbled together. Slapped on a chrome road fork to ride with a brake while I get used to fixed again. Original fork is painted as frame and is not drilled.

My 1971/72 "RICKERT" Track bike

So, I've been running my mouth off in multiple threads here the past week or so and I'm assuming a few of you folks are wondering, 'Does this fool even have a bike?' Well, I do in fact, and I've finally taken the time to snap a current picture. I'll also include two previous pics of when my frame was in bare steel and another of it soon after completion, just because she was so pretty then.



I bought this bike complete about 6 years ago from a sketchy source for the el cheapo price of $75. I was looking for one to strip down and rebuild and this seemed a perfect candidate. After investing about $300 in a several new components; crankset, pedals, toe clips/straps, bottom bracket, tires, and paint supplies, I began by sanding the frame to bare steel. Which, in hindsight, was not a good idea. Even with nearly two cans of green and several coats of clear, it's very easy to ding the frame to bare steel. It's a little more durable on the fork, headset and rear portion of the chainstays to dropouts because that's silver and clear over green. But, my takeaway is that unless you have a good reason to strip to bare metal... just don't. All that's needed is to scuff the old paint and apply the fresh color. Live and learn. It was a putrid shade of purple so I guess I just wanted it gone. All in all though, I don't store my bike wet so rust isn't a threat. One thing I don't regret is sanding and polishing the headset cups, seat post and clamp to bare aluminum. More of that yuck purple gone!



This was taken about a few months after completion. That seat, a Selle SMP Hybrid, is the most comfortable seat I've had on there. Too bad it hit pavement a few years ago and suffered a significant gouging of the rear right portion. It was a freebie at the bike shop I used to work at so no money lost. But, man, do I miss it! It's still totally usable, however, but just looks horrible now. It's currently a last resort seat if all my others get stolen.



And this was my bike earlier today, sporting a brand new KMC chain. Go ahead and hate on the sticker bombing, I don't care. Also, that yellow on the seat stay and fork is reflective tape. It seemed like a good idea at the time but I goofed with the application. Was only going to apply it to the seat stays so I cut two portions and stuck them on. After which, I thought, "Well, wouldn't it be symmetrical to also stick a piece on the fork?' So, with the two excess, short pieces, I stuck them on the fork. I've tried to peel them off but to no avail. It's gonna take some scraping. And so they stay until when/if I paint again.

All in all, it's a solid frame.

Specifications:

• Frame: 56 cm Hi-Ten urban single speed, butted top and down tube, cr-mo seat tube, water bottle & fender mounts
• Fork: Hi-Ten SE straight leg w/fender mounts
• Wheels: Matching 32 spoke, deep dish aluminum of forgotten make/model that a friend gave me when I rebuilt this bike. Rear hub is a flip with a 15T fixed steel cog and without the freewheel.
• Tires: Mismatched 700x25 road tires
• Crankset: Vuelta Pista 130 BCD spider and 165mm crank. A newly replaced bottom bracket when built that, again, I've forgotten the name of and a 46T chainring.
• Chain: Silver and brown KMC S1
• Handlebar: Just a slight riser that I've come to love, chopped an inch symmetrically to shoulder width.
• Tape/Grips: Wrapped with inner tube and a mismatched set of grips. All secured in place with black electrical tape.
• Stem: A long and stout piece I salvaged from a previously owned Giant MTB. Originally black but now bare aluminum that's been sanded and polished.
• Headset: Tange 1-1/8" threadless
• Seatpost: SE micro adjust alloy, 27.2mm
• Saddle: Something I pulled out of my parts bin. Originally bought used at a co-op and any branding that was once there had worn off. It fits and doesn't look too goofy, so it's good.
• Pedals: MKS Sylvan Stream touring pedals ('rat trap' type pedals)
• Accessories: Christophe toe clips and straps

mixie fixie!!

My two Wabi's and my alternate mode of transportation:

My 1986 TREK Tri Series

Kinda done, but not really. Love it so far, although I do need to tighten up the fit a little bit.

Late 60s Torpado Alpha ghetto singlespeed conversion. I believe that this is possibly my oldest bike.

My Viscount singlespeed

Different wheelset. Do you guys think this is better?

certainly cooler, but the first wheelset is perfectly adequate. gumwalls are especially nice with the fully black rims

“I am not a mountain bike. “

shut up and let’s roll. ain’t no mountains here nowaze