well since i have been doing these logs for some of the conversions i have done i thought it would be fun to do one for my first really nice build. i am finally replacing the black schwinn sprint (although i will never really get rid of it)



i have put thousands of miles on that bike and i love it but to tell the truth Chimblysweeps janie put me over the top as far as wanting a new bike. but anyways, the 6lb frame has to go.

it will be in the same vein though 73/74 degree angles with a slightly raised BB for a sport road geometry. i am using a light tubeset since i am right around 125lbs it will be a mix of OX platinum, ultra SS, and S3 from true temper.

the lugset is from henry james check em out here and the fork will most likely be a carbon model (blasphemy) i know most in here hate carbon but for 100 plus mile rides i appreciate it. (and it will be light) it will have a 1" head tube though so it will be a mix of classic parts that work well and some modern touches as well.

the lugs tubeset and brazeons were ordered today (minus the BB shell which is out of stock till next week) and i expect them to be in by friday so i can start measuring and filing. so check back as i will update this thread as much as possible so i can keep a nice running log from start to finish.

so here is my tenative parts listing

wheelset: Silver Phil's laced to something light 32h
BB: Phil
Headset: king
Seatpost:thompson silver
Crank: stronglight 165's W/ 48T ring 1/8
Pedals: eggbeater SL's
Stem: nitto
Bars Nitto TT bars or possibly Road drops
Brake: 105
seat: brooks B-17n chopped or White rolls
cogs: EAI 1/8 17t and 19t or 15t depending on where i am
Chain:KMC silver 1/8

BTW this will be on the headtube

like this

Are you doing that by hand?

Sweeeet.

You'll never be able to replace the Schwinn in your heart!

Also, people on here have bad things to say about Stronglight - crappy, untrue chainrings, in short.

what kind of tires are those, and how have they held up?

I like that fork crown.. alot.

got 3000 miles on mine, holding up fine for me. they may be replaced but not for now

there are a few options eg. laser, waterjet but yeah i used to make jewlery so im used to cutting out things like it with a jewlers saw.

You too huh?

frame design is almost complete. i just need to go back over it and verify that everything is as it should be

Edit: scroll down for corrected drawings i f'ed these up when i saved em.

It looks like there could be some mean toe overlap...

I dont know how proficient you are in graphics but if youre looking for some help with logos or stickers i can help you out with that sort of stuff. That bike should be amazing when its done.

wow you are right about the toe overlap. i f'ed up the bike cad file when i went to save it and changed how it calculates TT length here it is corrected.

some more designs for the bike


since it wont have a rear brake this is going to be the brake bridge, it will be cut from 3/16 stainless plate. the clearance on it will be pretty close, i am estimating ~1/4" with 23c's at 120psi


this will be the BB cutout. serves 2 purposes 1. drainage 2. shows off the sex that is a Phil bb

I heart The Locust

The bridge is ****ing hot.
I'm totally going to copy you when we build my bike

i heart you to keicker. if i had framebuilding insurance i would totally build you a long distance fix for your 585mi ride. you know i bet some day you will do raam on a fix, i can totally see you doing it. it cant be that much harder than doing 13,000 mi. in 2 weeks on a motorcycle. or mabe its waay harder i have no idea but i do know you are crazy enough to try it.

yeah i am pretty happy with the way the design is coming together. BTW i was at Wheel and sprocket for a couple hours last night riding some $5000 colnagos and a couple treks madone,5000 ect. and a real nice felt F4 just to see what type of geometry i liked best, so now i have a good idea of how the fit will come together on my bike and i think i will stick with the geo numbers i have in my design right now.

but my only problem is i cannot make up my mind about the parts for the final build.

phil's = high flange or low
cranks = stick with the stronglights or buy SG 75's
bars =drop or bullhorns ergo or classic

plus all the other little things like bar tape color paint scheme and stuff like that is keeping me up at night... fun but annoying, i jut need to get the tubes and start filing and then that stuff will take care of its self when the time comes.

all the parts arrived today except for the BB shell which will be here next week some time.

the final peice is here now comes the fun part.

i will start by drilling out the majority of the locust and then finishing it up with needle files and a dremel tool.

so hot. I want to see this thing done

Definitely hot. If you give a description (brief, even) of how you make that headbadge, that would be awesome. It seems like the sort of task that would be within reach of the not-too-hardcore hobbyist. Someday I'd like to make a hammer and sickle to put on my Sputnik.

ok to make a headbadge what you need to do is get a good pic of what you want to cut out. first, simplify it as much as possible, the sickle and hammer will be perfect for this.

scale it down so it will fit on your headtube, then print it out onto sticker paper.

buy a sheet of 16ga. stainless and stick the sticker onto the stainless.

then buy a jewlers saw and drill some holes near the edges of your design. insert the saw into the hole and start cutting.

a long time later you will have a rough design. then you must clean up the edges of the design with jewlers files.

now you must polish the stainless. use successivly finer grits of sandpaper untill you are down to 1000 grit.

then find a pipe the same size as your headtube and use a rawhide mallet or rubber mallet to bend your cutout design around the pipe.

then get some silver brazing wire and braze the design to the headtube being carefull not to overheat the design.

polish with polising compound and have your frame painted or powdercoated.

You're the man, locust / You're the locust, man. That doesn't sound too hard. I'd probably skip the brazing part, though, and just go with rivets/screws. I'm not quite ready to repaint the whole frame.

Good luck with your bike! I'm looking forward to seeing it on the FGG.

so if you haven't yet decided on parts for your build, especially crankset, I'm gonna go ahead and recommend the Miche crankset w/ chainring. Couple with a set of silver polished high flange Phils, wow ...

If you're going to be using this for long distance riding, I'd probably stay away from the drops. Ergo bars would probably work with some dummy hoods on 'em; I really love my Profile Design TT bars for their numerous hand positions.