Is there an easy way to do this? Can I use the same hub? I had thought that there was a way to simply remove the freewheel. I read sheldons site but I figured I would post here as I didn't find an answer to this question. Thanks for the help!

you need a special tool to remove freewheel cogs (i think, its been a while). you could theoretically just replace it with with a fixed gear cog but as there are no threads on the cog for a lockring youd have to rotafix it (maybe with some red locktite?), which ive never really trusted, though others seem to.

If it's a disc hub flip it over, drill out a shimano dx cog and bolt it on. Viola, fixed gear.

oh good point. i think the redlines come with disc hubs.

the moncog come with 110 spaced non disc hubs... bmx spacing.

depends on the year. IIRC the older ones were like that the new ones are not, and neither are the newer 29er monocogs.

I have one, and its got the 110mm hub, best way would be to find an old 110mm track hub, not common but they do exist. 2nd best way, cold set the dropouts to 120mm, not an ideal option but doable, although that 4130 cromo frame is pretty stout, aint gonna be real easy. 3rd and ugly option I dont really recommend but ive seen others get away with it, and thats screw on a fixed cog, followed by a BB lockring I think will fit on(maybe, 1.24" by 24tpi isnt it?) and lots of blue loctite.

If its got the newer hubs all you need to do is lace up a wheel with a ss/fixed hub, or have someone build you one.

Ive ridden someone else's fixed MTB, and it takes some getting used to, fat tires dont skid like skinny ones, and having a heavier bike to muscle around makes a difference. For off road fixed MTB is pretty insane, having to snap the cranks to horizontal all the time to clear obstacles can be tough sometimes, same as bunnyhopping a curb on a fixed just with a bigger and heavier bike plus dealing with bumpy terrain makes it quite challenging.

You could also respace a track hub if you could one with a narrow enough body. The chainline would probably need some adjustment in the front to.

Also as a side note here you need to run two brakes on it if you plan on ever taking it off road. To do otherwise makes you a piece of **** deserving of severe beating from anyone else who passes you on the trails. Even with brakes unless you are a very talented MTBer and know the trails you plan on riding on like the back of your hand already please just stick to ss.

A bit harsh no?

I love my front brake. Never ridden off road with a rear, and the other fixed gear mtn biker I rode with yesterday never has either; most of the trails out here are new for me too...I guess I'm deseving of your beating...please catch me on the trails first.

Back in MN I remember during a seriers of ice races that took riders out on to a lake, into the woods, and back again there were a brakeless fixed rider. He also did not know the trail since it was made that morning. Definitey fun to watch him rail. In fact I might have a picture somewhere.

No not really. People who tear up the trails or risk doing so becasue they don't want to shell out the $30 for a rear brake get dealt with as they deserve.

I am lukewarm to the whole idea of fg mtbing in general because it is far more likely to tear up the trails. What do you do on behind the saddle descents for instance? However the vast majority of the people who I have seen doing it are incredibly experienced riders who have the skills to do it well and have been riding the trails since thier inception so aren't doing much damage. Plus they could use the extra challenge. However I have little respect for others who do so before they have mastered the basic bike handling skills that are neccesssary to ride fgmtb without damaging the trails.

Not putting a back brake on is completely reprehensible no matter who you are(I have never seen an experienced MTBer do so only people who came from the street fixie side of things.) You often need to stop with both wheels while mtbing since there is so much less traction then on the road. A brake is much better at applying pressure to the wheel and therefore no matter how talented you are it will keep you from skidding at least sometimes. Skidding is never ever appropriate while MTBing ever. Since not having one forces you to skid more and tear up the trails more you are deserving of the aformentioned beating.

I'm gonna fix up a monocog 29er, but I'm building it up from the frame. The 110mm spacing isn't too bad of a problem if you're willing to build up a wheel with some track hubs that can be respaced. My Promax SBs have washers that can be removed to givea 110mm spacing. The only problem would be making sure the hubs were dirt-worthy. I wanted to run a disc rear on a fixed hub, and one nice solution are atomlab's Disk Adapters. The six bolt mount just threads onto the freewheel thread, and there's a caliper mount for your frame if it wasn't equipped with tabs.

Okay. The Monocog 29'er is new this year, and has standard 135mm MTB spacing, same as the new '06 monocog. The older monocogs had 110mm rear spacing, and came with disc hubs starting around '03 or '04 I believe. They all came with V-brakes though.

The atomlab Disk Adapters that thread onto the freewheel threading will work for braking, and you can still have to bolt on a fixed cog to the stock disc-mount. You can use the stock wheel, flip it, bolt on your adapter+disc on one side, and bolt on a cog, and have a fixed, disc-brake equipped 29'er MTB very easily. Even less hassle than you planned on.

<i>The older monocogs had 110mm rear spacing, and came with disc hubs starting around '03 or '04 I believe</i>

maybe the monocog flight but I'm pretty sure mine is an '04 and it has a free/little free hub.

I already have a 135mm Surly fixed/free on the way and I'll just build my wheel with that. Not sure if I'm gonna run a disc brake on the fixed setup as I have a Nashbar ss hub that is disc ready. What can I say, I like building wheels. I don't know if we've established what spacing the OP has, I was just throwing my .02 in. You've always been pretty helpful with the 110mm spacing or disc-to-fixed solutions. The atomlabs adapters (their spelling) just blew my mind in how someone comes up with an elegant solution to a problem.

It's called controlled spin with front brake applied, ride it out, or hike down it. You speak as if I and my other fixed mtn bike friends have never ridden trails before You and I have both seen newbie riders or even just your weekend warriors tearing up trails far more often then any fixed gear rider by locking up a wheel, riding around obsticals or puddles and widening the trial, etc...

Agreed in regards to experience. I don't know of any rider that takes a fixed geared bike out into technical trails when learning to ride dirt. Hell, I think most of us were dirt riders long before learning to ride fixed. I know I didn't start riding fixed until I got tired of waiting for the trails to dry out after a MN winter so I took my spin to the road. Although I disagree about "and have been riding the trails since their inception". Experienced riders learn how to adapt to new trails and surfaces whether for fun or for a race regardless if they are riding fixed or a coaster. The original posted never mentioned their background in dirt skills but you assumed they had none and then go one to call them names and threaten a beating if they don't run two brakes. For that sir you are a complete and utter tool.

Let me take a complete and utter guess here.....you've never ridden fixed off road have you? For the few people that I know that did have a rear brake on while riding fixed off road all of them have complained about how it throws your mojo off and all have since removed it. When you're up for a challenge and want to take your trail to a new level swap a cog on and give it a whirl. After a while you may also find your opinion on a rear brake may change

Keep it spinning.

Indeed, other people tear up the trails too but that doesn't mean you should. Beginners will always do so and its unfortunate but everyone has to learn good bike control somehow. Weekend warriors and fg riders being skidiots are both equally reprehensible. I don't cut them any more slack this is just an thread about fg riders.


Unfortunately I have heard of this happening and there is no excuse for it. Yes noobs will always tear up trails but even they have a responsibility to keep it to a minimum. I think it will become more and more common as the group of people who have little to no biking experience outside of fixed gears has grown so large. There is a reasonable portion of this board for instance that got into cycling in thier late teens or twenties on fixed gear bikes. When people like this decide they want to try their hand on the trails a fair number of them may be tempted to do so on a fg which is not a good choice for them or the trails.

I didn;t mean that riding the trails since thier inception was a prerequisite but rather that you should at least figure out whats around every corner before you ride a new trail fixed.

I did no such thing. I don't even know if he plans to ride it off road period. My original post merely states that he needs to keep the brakes on it and if he is not already an accomplished rider he should stick to ss until he is.


Not being able to lock up my wheel and throw my bike around on super tight switchbacks throws off my mojo on fast descents. I still don't do it(except on private trails on private land) though becuase I'm not a jackass. I don't care how much more pleasant it is to ride without a back brake unless you can apply smooth enough pressure so that you skid no more then you would with a brake you are a peice of **** for putting your own enjoyment over the trails health.

See there you go again assuming that I and any other fixed mtn biker are new and/or skidding up the trails. Yes this is a thread about FG riders; I was merely making a comparison that a new dirt rider, regardless of bike, will most likely make more trail damage then an experience FG mtn bike rider. For that my comparison is valid and noteworthy. I have not had any experience with these "skidiots" that you speak of.

There you go assuming again. Why not set the example and instead of assuming, calling names, and making threats. Take the bigger role and lead and or suggest proper trail etiquette. Even the noobs don't know any better until we talk to them and also invite them out to help us work on the trails together.

Like I said before any experienced rider no matter what bike they are riding (fixed or a coaster) should have the proper skills to adapt to any trail they ride. I know in many of the races I've done pre-riding the course is not always possible especially when you do races that are long/er, like 40, 50 or 100+ miles. And some courses you are not allowed to pre-ride like at the SSWC.

You can not deny that you didn't call someone names and make threats..... ...and to be honest that's what really made me reply and dissect your post. Show some respect get some respect.

I think you misunderstood me a bit. Think of it more as trying to climb on a FS bike without being able to lock out the squish....mojo. Also you go assuming again that just because you don't have rear brake that you're skidding on the trails. You just don't get it. Riding fixed whether on the street, track, or in the dirt (yes I do all of them) is moreso about about a controled spin. Skidding does not improve one's braking ability; controlled spinning does. Train your legs my friend and learn to be one with your legs and wheels. Oh and please keep your astrict name calling to yourself. It really is unnecessary.

Don't worry about some loudmouth on a message board telling you you need a brake on the rear of your fixed mtb. From someone who's raced both run of the mill mtb races and one of the 24hr variety fixed, lets just say its up to you. And that I don't personally know any fixed offroaders running a rear brake.

We're all just fine, and I guarantee more experienced than this dutret dude. Give it a rest, we're not harming your first-born by not letting you inspect our bikes for an approved build first.

As for how to convert your Monocog, I'm a big fan of the bolt on fixed cogs that fit a 6-bolt disc mount. Riding fixed offroad you are using much lower gears than on the street, and thus much more torque is on the fixed mount (be it threads or bolts). The bolt on versions seem to hold up a bit better than traditional threaded mountings.

...back to your regularly scheduled soapbox derby...

Where exactly did I say that? I even pointed out that vast majority of fg mtbers are amazingly talented riders. The difference between you riding without a brake and a new mtb rider is they have no choice over thier damage because they lack the bike handling skills neccessary. You on the other hand skid because you decided not to have a brake(You have yet to refute my statement that not having a rear brake increases the amount you skid.)


What did I assume now? Noone should be riding fg anyway if they haven't been riding long enough to know proper etiquette.


indeed but a race is a different situation from every day riding.


I did indeed call people who willfully damage trails more then is neccessary both pieces of **** and jackasses. I stand by that. I will however deny that I made a single threat. I did say the above mentioned jackasses and POSes deserved repeated beatings but that is not a threat. Plenty of people deserve beatings but very few actually get them and I'm not about to start handing them out. If I came off a bit harsh at first is was to stress the difference between riding brakeless on the street where you endanger mainly yourself and doing so on the trails which you damage for everyone.

The difference between bouncing around on suspension or not does not effect other riders. Nor does it effect you if you have a brake and don't use it. That is therefore not a good comparison. The fact is you can't control a rear wheel as well with "controlled spinning" as you can with a brake. Your legs are just not built to do that. The skidding I speak about here is not the intentional skidding to stop you but rather the unintentional skidding caused by you not being able to apply smooth pressure like a brake can. Having talked to some very experienced riders who ride fg combined with my own fg experience I am convinced that for all except maybe a handful of riders in the world leaving off a rear brake will lead to more skidding. For those times you can control your speed don't use it. I am willing to bet it will still be used sometimes(if not why would it effect your mojo)


[QUOTE=Devolution], and I guarantee more experienced than this dutret dude. [/Devolution]

Really? How old are you? When did you start riding?

Kinda a stupid thing to say seeing as you don't know me or my experience. It is completely possible that you have more experience then me but if so it is only due to my age. If you do I am quite impressed but I still trust those whom I have met and ridden with over some dude on the internet any day.

i may certainly take some of this back in the morning as i've just finished working all evening, ... but as far as speed reading through most of it 'cause i'm lazy... here i go.

and please, if yer gonna take me down, promise you'll take kiecker and i down together, we'd both enjoy it more that way ; )

me = super newbie mtn bike rider
always been single speed.
to this day, a whole lot of that fixed gear.

ruining trails? seriously, when i'm out riding i see geared guys trying to "not do that" 'cause they're "not supposed to", and they know it, while doing that. all the time.
and for some reason it makes them smile.
testosterone.
that's what it is.
when i'm riding trails fixed, i never touch my front brake, back doesn't exist, and i mess with no integrity of trails. i ride slower, some, and i learn the techinical stuff, way better than i ever have not fixed.
i'm inclined to think i've become a better rider because of this. in a shorter amount of time. if you're riding a fixed gear you don't need a rear brake, whether you're on the street or on the trails.
so long as you're not a jerk.

you do, and should, in either case, need a front, though.
makes ya smart.
instead of smrt.
or maybe i'm just old and practical.
or don't care what others think of me.

make sense??

if not, call me a jerk in the morning for being too tired too read all of this.
and i will either agree, or not.
either way i end up on the ground with kiecker.
and i'm ok with that.

Jeesh guys... prescription 1 chill-pill each.

Front brake should do nearly all your braking for you. In the cases where a rear brake is needed, skidding isn't necessary, and resisting is probably perfect. Listen to pigtails here:
pink pigtails: Do you know Ken Cox? Just wondering...

No that entire post made very little sense try rewriting it.

Wait how slow do you ride? How can you possibly descend without touching your front brake? How flat are you rides?

Maybe the difference here is the type of rides y'all go on. If y'all ride super slow and on pretty flat stuff I can see how it would be possible that you could resist effectively wihtout accidentally locking up the rear wheel. At higher RPMs I simply don;t think its possible to smoothly apply a reasonable amount of pressure to the rear wheel. And at least among people I have met I am in pretty good company on that opinion.

that is my experience. No rear brake off road is the way to go fixed. just a front mech disc. Once you start skidding your rear wheel for braking purposes, what's the point exactly.

So dutret, you have yet to answer one fundamental question, have you ever ridden fixed mountain bike? Those are the only credentials worth talking about in this thread.

So far we have a bunch of people that ride fixed mountain bikes giving real advice, and you shouting names. Speak up. Any real experience on your part, or just conjecture?

No, but I have ridden with fg riders. And have ridden other fg bikes myself sometimes offroad. I have over a decade and a half of MTB experience that has taught me what exactly is needed as far as braking goes on trails. Unlike on the road the poor traction conditions on many trails necessitate the ability to use both wheels to stop. Noone no matter how talented can apply even pressure to a rear wheel through the cranks all the time. My experience riding with and talking to very talented fgmtb riders has convinced me that for the vast majority of riders at least it is impossible to apply enough even pressure to ride on steep technical trails without skidding.
skidding the rear wheel to stop but rather unintentionally skidding due to the inability to apply even pressure to the pedals especially at high rpms.

Maybe you don't ride such trails I don't know. Maybe you just ride really slow with a very low gear ratio and walk down alot of stuff. I know for instance muni riders are able to succesfully control their contraptions with only thier pedals. They however walk alot, never go very fast and are geared at 1:1(often with a 24" wheel.) If you ride more like that then I can see how a rear brake would be superfluous.

Since one of the people who rides fg claims to "never touch his front brake" I think I can safely say that my experience is more valuable then some peoples fg experience.

For the last time. I am NOT talking about intentionally skidding the rear wheel but rather unintentional skids that could be avoided if you had a rear brake.