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SS to Fixed Conversion

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

SS to Fixed Conversion

Old 08-02-06 | 01:14 AM
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SS to Fixed Conversion

Hey,

Always wanted a fixed and this SS came along and I figured I could get it and convert it no problem. I read a little about this but there wasn't enough detail, and I can't find an article on it. Here's my current setup:



Looks like the original hub with spacers and freewheel still there. What parts do I need and how can I do this? I wouldn't mind getting a new part even if I don't need it, cause right now the gearing is a little easy for me (45-18). I'm also concerned about chain line. Will it stay straight, and how do I even know if it's straight?

Mostly I'm wondering if/how I can do it. If I can do it, I'll do it myself. I don't mind resorting to locktite if I need to. Cheaper=better. I run a brake so no worries.
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Old 08-02-06 | 01:49 AM
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Bikes: Full Fendered Bareknuckle, Faggin with 10spd Centaur, 1973 Raleigh 3spd Cruiser.

loctite and a lot of trust in... well, loctite. Or, a welder
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Old 08-02-06 | 01:57 AM
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Bikes: Land Shark, Level Professional, Tsunami singlespeed, Giant Reign 1

you could get a Sub 11 Hub Converter - that will run you $70

you could get a brand spanking new hand built wheelset for $135 and sell the front

or look in the trade/for sale threads for a less expensive used rear track wheel.
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Old 08-02-06 | 02:00 AM
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Bikes: Full Fendered Bareknuckle, Faggin with 10spd Centaur, 1973 Raleigh 3spd Cruiser.

I'm riding a loctited hub as of now, (only cuz my old ride got jacked) and I'm now confident enough in the loctite to let it roll brakeless... so yeah, a tube of loctite = cheaper? meh...
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Old 08-02-06 | 02:22 AM
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That is a cassette hub, so you can't do the loctite method on it. Probably can't even weld it, due to differing metals. Replace the rear hub with an old style freewheel hub, track hub, or disc brake hub, or the entire wheel with one that has one of those hubs.
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Old 08-02-06 | 05:08 AM
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Yeah, that's a cassette hub. Pretty much the worst possible candidate for fixing.
I think there is a fix/track kit for fixifying cassette hubs, but i wouldn't go that route.
If you're on a budget, get a dirt cheap freewheel type hub, and fix it with a track cog, BB lockring and lotsa loctite and even more torque. Or get a track wheel.
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Old 08-02-06 | 10:17 AM
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Gah, oh well. Thanks for your expertise! If I get a new hub and rebuild the wheel, will I need new spokes to fit a different spacing, or what?
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Old 08-02-06 | 10:37 AM
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just get a new wheel and save that one.

replacing the hub is almost as expensive as a just getting a whole new one.

plus that way if you f up your wheel you'll have a backup.
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Old 08-02-06 | 10:43 AM
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Yeah, it's guarateed that you'd need new spokes, at least for one side; but then using 18 new and 18 used spokes would really be half-assed. So you will need new spokes.
If it's a good rim and you are somewhat mechanically inclined then rebuild it yourself as per

sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild

It's a nice learnig experience and a basis for boasting.

Otherwise, buy a complete wheel because any US LBS will charge you an arm and a leg for a wheelbuild, so you're better off buying a complete wheel and selling this or keeping it as a spare.
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