is it possible for a machine shop to "thread" a 1-inch threadless fork steerer?

i want one of gene's (spicer) track forks (undrilled/flat crown) save for the fact that they're threadless

reason being i can't seem to locate a 1-inch threaded track fork

Make sure the shop has experience in doing this, and doing it a lot. Not something to be winged.

I think I remember hearing something about the walls of a threadless fork being thinner, and therefore being too thin for threading, but I'm not sure. Somebody will probably chime in soon enough that knows more than me.

For what it's worth, I would just run a road fork if you're having that much trouble finding a track fork.

i hear ya

i've got a decent benotto road fork

i'm just seeking the minimum rake for the correct geometry and tolerance; not to mention appearance

see if you can find the wall thickness of the fork. Then see if you can find the thread depth of a typical 1" thread. You want the wall thickness to be at least twice the thread depth.

Whip out a caliper and measure the wall thickness. Then measure some threaded forks, or ask around on BF what the recommended min, thickness is... Or find a good shop and have them do this part as well.

BTW, what you are about to do is a crime against cycling. WTF do you want to go back to an inferior design when the fork can do better? From the price of thread cutting you could get a threadless stem... If this is for track racing, def. go -less for stiffness.

Ló "quill stem hater" Farkas

sound advise - many thanks

why threaded?
personal "style" preference and restoration correctness

why not threadless?
my specialized s-works langster (my race bike) runs threadless as does my bareknuckle (daily ride)

happy?

Not happy, but less sad

great!

now i can sleep

Crimes against cycling and wall thickness aside, yes, it can be done. But I would look into the thickness thing.

I ordered a chrome Cinelli track fork a while back from American Cylcery in SF. It definitely wasn't cheap though. https://www.americancyclery.com

email spicer and ask if he has any threaded track forks lying around. last time i checked he had a bunch of yellow ones that were drilled that he offered to fill the brake hole and powdercoat black for like $135 i think?

i opted for getting a track fork custom built from a friend though.

It's not just thread depth that you have to consider, but how deep the groove is for your locking washer and the chance that you might deform the thinner steer tube walls with the expanding base of the quill stem.

I remember a while back (more than a year) someone on here talking about having a frame builder modify their Soma fork by cutting it close to the race and welding on a thicker steer tube that had the correct tolerances for such a task. Might be worth a search.

Those Spicer forks do not look so good up close. Also, I think they have a fairly substantial amount of rake to them... Yojimbo's in Chicago has the threaded cinelli forks in stock. Far more expensive, but a much nicer fork. Heck, Yellow Jersey has 3rensho forks...

If you're dead set on the idea, you'd be better served to take the thing to a frame builder and get an entirely new steerer brazed on. I believe that Mikkelson has done this for a few people on the forum for around $40.

However, for the time and/or effort you're going to put into this, you could probably get someone like Johnny Coast or Moyer or any other less-established frame builder to make you a fork. The spicer fork is what, $100? Add another $20-50 to get the thing threaded and then you're at the point where for another $50 or so you could get something custom.

Oh yes. I dunno why I didn't mention that I actually ride a fork with a cut-and-welded steerer (converted to threadless). Totally doable. We have a semi-retired frambuilder here (he used to build track bikes, actually) who will weld in a new steerer for a ridiculously low fee. He did mine (and supplied the new steerer) for $7. Very high quality, reliable work as well. He sanded down the area after welding and I swear I can't locate the weld. I was a bit ashamed to pay that little...

The cut is not very close to the race... with mine the guy left as much of the original steerer as he could, which is a clever idea. Less leverage on the weld.

Of course, if you do a swap, just have a threaded steerer welded in. It can easily be chopped off of a threaded fork.

I asked Gene last week about the forks, here was his reply (Spicer are great people):

Hi Naz,
thanks for the email. The only threaded forks I have are yellow that are drilled for brake. I think there are eyelets on fork ends too. I would have to know the head tube length of your frame to see if I have one that works (just head tube and not cups too) I just have one ore two I think.

I have a few chrome 1" threadless in 42 rake and some 1" black threadless in 38 rake, neither are drilled.

I have tried to thread and it is about impossible to get good depth of threads and straight using hand dies.

thanks,
gene

how about the bikeworks fork?

go custom

i'm stuck at work today (24hr shift)

i'll give gene a call tomorrow

i thank you all very much for your insight and efforts - it's appreciated

btw---https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2005/may/ColinFairbairn.htm

i have had a threadless steerer hand-threaded and it was absolutely fine and problem free. there are tools made specifically for this, and as long as the person operating it knows what they're doing it's straightforward work, if labor-intensive.

I've always heard that the steerer tubes on the threaded forks are thicker in the threaded area as to compensate for the threads.
And thus, threading threadless forks is not always a good idea, since this extra thickness doesn't exist.

I've also loved the 2 bikeworks forks I've used. They are drilled for a brake, however.

am i missing something? cutting a steer tube, welding on a new piece, and threading it? all to use a quill stem? thats just plain stupid in my nobody really cares about opinion

Well he really wants to run a fork with no brake hole. This is important stuff.

bondo

Do you know if they rolled or cut the threads?