Do It Yourself (DIY)
07-24-09, 11:48 AM
#227
Elitist
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Hoping to bring this thread to life-Great thread- but I need some help/assistance here. I have an old Schwinn Varsity frame that I'm converting to a SS, but as of right now the bike weighs a metric ton. As you probably know most, if not all Varsity's had kickstands and I'm wondering if I could saw/torch that beast off(the kstand is welded on) without losing the integrity of the frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
07-24-09, 11:53 AM
#228
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yeah you can saw off the kickstand. no biggie. just don't cut it too close to the frame.
07-24-09, 12:14 PM
#229
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As a tool maker that works in a composite(carbon) facility, I get slivers all the time(metal and carbon). Iuse a disposable razor and shave them out. This is excellent for those nasty carbon slivers that you can NEVER grab with tweezers.
04-29-10, 09:04 PM
#231
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Fuuuuu*******kkk! I was never much into carbon fiber composites (impossible to inspect, sensitive to humidity) but this account definitely seals the deal for all eternity. Yea, yea, I know, you won't get those slivers if the part isn't broken or badly scratched. In an accident, though, I am happy if I "only" have to deal with the usual consequences - a nasty contamination with carbon slivers would be too much.
04-29-10, 09:11 PM
#232
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Fuuuuu*******kkk! I was never much into carbon fiber composites (impossible to inspect, sensitive to humidity) but this account definitely seals the deal for all eternity. Yea, yea, I know, you won't get those slivers if the part isn't broken or badly scratched. In an accident, though, I am happy if I "only" have to deal with the usual consequences - a nasty contamination with carbon slivers would be too much.
Most of the time when CF fails it just loses it's rigidity. You are in more danger of being sliced by aluminum/steel or severe road rash from in a crash than by some carbon fibers. I've seen several CF bikes crash and no one got "contaminated".
It's funny that you quoted artimus mentioning "metal", too. But, I'm sure that won't change your opinion on the matter.
04-29-10, 09:42 PM
#233
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04-29-10, 11:10 PM
#236
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I was going to agree that yeah, I may be a bit dramatic. I've been in a nasty accident and peace of mind goes a long way, nowadays, when I'm cycling. Another accident like the previous one, and the consequences would be many times worse (with the titanium bits in my head and arms, and a second concussion).
04-30-10, 03:47 AM
#237
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I read the De-anodising guide and polishing and I was wondering if I could do this with a set of Sugino Messenger cranks? Theyre anodized in blue but if I do the method and re-polish it, will they become silver?
04-30-10, 04:29 AM
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Yeah, I think so. I'm not certain, but I'm pretty positive they will come out silver since the deanodization will strip the color.
04-30-10, 09:31 AM
#239
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Yes, the blue is a dye added in a anodization process. If you remove the anodization you will remove the blue.
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I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
04-30-10, 09:37 AM
#240
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how come this isnt a sticky?
04-30-10, 09:57 AM
#242
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I've actually read the start here page, but totally missed this.
05-29-10, 11:57 PM
#244
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I tried to do the DIY polishing thing but i saw that my seatpost had this weird black rigid crap on it. Anyone know how to get rid of it before I polish it?
Edit: I tried the EasyOff but it didnt take that off
Edit: I tried the EasyOff but it didnt take that off
11-06-10, 02:11 PM
#245
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Custom bike seats: https://www.woodenraindrops.com/2010/...bike-seat.html
02-05-12, 05:40 PM
#246
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Bump NEEED MORE TUTORIALS!!!!!!>=D
01-22-14, 08:23 AM
#247
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De-anodising (anodizing - for the stateside) and polishing a Cinelli quill stem
(or any other aluminium (aluminum - as before) part)
The [165] with-beer method.
Tools
Beer. (Weird one my girls dad had. MVP?)
Oven cleaner. (Sodium Hydroxide is the chemical you need I believe)
Fine grade wet'n'dry paper. (This was 1200 grit.)
Cup of water for the wet'n'dry.
Your aluminium part. (Disassembled as much as possible)
Metal polish cream. (Not pictured sorry. Mine was Autosol)
2 Cotton rags. (Old pyjamas pictured)
Old bucket or tray. (For the oven cleaner)
This stem was bought off Ebay and was a little shabby. Few knocks and scratches and
generally dull looking with it's factory anodise.
Step 1
Remove all parts/bolts and put part to be de-anodised in an old bucket/tray.
Spray on oven cleaner making sure not to get it on you or in your lungs.
A good coating helps. I don't think you can have too much. I had to turn
the stem with a stick to get at all the sides. Leave it for 10-15 minutes and have some ale.
Step 2
Rinse off all the cleaner a couple of times before you touch the part.
The part should be dull all over. If there are still spots of anodise, hit it again.
Step 3
Use the wet'n'dry to sand out any deep scratches, a general all-over rub works well at getting a
smooth surface. Avoid sanding any logos/pantographs if you care. The part should now look like this.
Step 4
Here is where the rubbing begins. You might need more beer. I did.
The method I find works best is to wrap an index finger in cotton cloth and apply a small blob of
metal polish cream to the fingertip. Rub the part like crazy all over for as long as you can bare.
Then get a clean rag (your 'dry' rag) and buff the polish off. The more times you repeat these
steps the more mirror-like the finish. I actually find it really satisfying but beer does help.
Bling
Your new shiny part.
Hope this helps. I tried using a dremel on a Campy Aero post a few weeks ago and find this method works better.
Now I just need the rest of the bike! Pics when finished.
Cheers.
JOL
(or any other aluminium (aluminum - as before) part)
The [165] with-beer method.
Tools
Beer. (Weird one my girls dad had. MVP?)
Oven cleaner. (Sodium Hydroxide is the chemical you need I believe)
Fine grade wet'n'dry paper. (This was 1200 grit.)
Cup of water for the wet'n'dry.
Your aluminium part. (Disassembled as much as possible)
Metal polish cream. (Not pictured sorry. Mine was Autosol)
2 Cotton rags. (Old pyjamas pictured)
Old bucket or tray. (For the oven cleaner)
This stem was bought off Ebay and was a little shabby. Few knocks and scratches and
generally dull looking with it's factory anodise.
Step 1
Remove all parts/bolts and put part to be de-anodised in an old bucket/tray.
Spray on oven cleaner making sure not to get it on you or in your lungs.
A good coating helps. I don't think you can have too much. I had to turn
the stem with a stick to get at all the sides. Leave it for 10-15 minutes and have some ale.
Step 2
Rinse off all the cleaner a couple of times before you touch the part.
The part should be dull all over. If there are still spots of anodise, hit it again.
Step 3
Use the wet'n'dry to sand out any deep scratches, a general all-over rub works well at getting a
smooth surface. Avoid sanding any logos/pantographs if you care. The part should now look like this.
Step 4
Here is where the rubbing begins. You might need more beer. I did.
The method I find works best is to wrap an index finger in cotton cloth and apply a small blob of
metal polish cream to the fingertip. Rub the part like crazy all over for as long as you can bare.
Then get a clean rag (your 'dry' rag) and buff the polish off. The more times you repeat these
steps the more mirror-like the finish. I actually find it really satisfying but beer does help.
Bling
Your new shiny part.
Hope this helps. I tried using a dremel on a Campy Aero post a few weeks ago and find this method works better.
Now I just need the rest of the bike! Pics when finished.
Cheers.
JOL
Its hard to tell what exactly im looking at, but it looks like some of my parts. You should try some wet sandpaper. maybe start with a 320 grit and work your way up to 1400 or 1500. Let me know how that works out for you.
01-22-14, 06:58 PM
#248
Elitist
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Wow. Can you believe that this thread is 7 years old?? Can you believe that I've been around that long? 
It needs to be retired. I have started a new version: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...lf-(DIY)-again
Feel free to repost your ideas, solutions, and finds there.
Thanks! Carleton
It needs to be retired. I have started a new version: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...lf-(DIY)-again
Feel free to repost your ideas, solutions, and finds there.
Thanks! Carleton
