Pedal removal -> Stripped crank :(
#1
Pedal removal -> Stripped crank :(
I'm so bummed, I was switching the one sided MKS AR-2 pedals from my friend's SS build with the Sakae platforms my fixie and now my drive side crank is stripped. I couldn't get the pedal off so I took it to a shop, he said it was on unusually tight. It's obvious because the crank face showed damage. He said he could try "cleaning it up" with a tap but it looks so cleanly stripped that I think I need a new crank.
The crank is a Sakae, actually the same exact one that came on the SS Miyata. I'm guessing it's pretty common, or I can at least find something similar for cheap. The problem is that I'm leaving for Boston for the summer June 1 and I don't know if I can wait around for eBay. What should I do? Can I buy a new square taper crank easily?
Pics of the crank:
https://velospace.org/node/2335
https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2007/apr/MaxHoyle.htm
If you guys can help I'd really appreciate it.
The crank is a Sakae, actually the same exact one that came on the SS Miyata. I'm guessing it's pretty common, or I can at least find something similar for cheap. The problem is that I'm leaving for Boston for the summer June 1 and I don't know if I can wait around for eBay. What should I do? Can I buy a new square taper crank easily?
Pics of the crank:
https://velospace.org/node/2335
https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2007/apr/MaxHoyle.htm
If you guys can help I'd really appreciate it.
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#3
Originally Posted by blickblocks
I'm so bummed, I was switching the one sided MKS AR-2 pedals from my friend's SS build with the Sakae platforms my fixie and now my drive side crank is stripped. I couldn't get the pedal off so I took it to a shop, he said it was on unusually tight. It's obvious because the crank face showed damage. He said he could try "cleaning it up" with a tap but it looks so cleanly stripped that I think I need a new crank.
The crank is a Sakae, actually the same exact one that came on the SS Miyata. I'm guessing it's pretty common, or I can at least find something similar for cheap. The problem is that I'm leaving for Boston for the summer June 1 and I don't know if I can wait around for eBay. What should I do? Can I buy a new square taper crank easily?
Pics of the crank:
https://velospace.org/node/2335
https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2007/apr/MaxHoyle.htm
If you guys can help I'd really appreciate it.
The crank is a Sakae, actually the same exact one that came on the SS Miyata. I'm guessing it's pretty common, or I can at least find something similar for cheap. The problem is that I'm leaving for Boston for the summer June 1 and I don't know if I can wait around for eBay. What should I do? Can I buy a new square taper crank easily?
Pics of the crank:
https://velospace.org/node/2335
https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2007/apr/MaxHoyle.htm
If you guys can help I'd really appreciate it.
#5
Originally Posted by trons
helicoil?
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#8
Originally Posted by BRANDUNE
WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU GUYS TALKING ABOUT?!
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#9
All around nice guy
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Sunny Seattle
Bikes: THE KIND WITH TWO WHEELS AND ONE GEAR
Originally Posted by old and new
Yes helicoil, anyone's interested in the procedure, it'll work. My job was a heli-coil installer for a spell.
I'll wait and see what this post brings first though.
I'll wait and see what this post brings first though.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 1
A heli-coil is a brand, now it's a general term used for a thread repair procedure. the kits cost 12 to 20 bucks. Easy to do but harder to explain, you need a drill and well..not much else.Before I go on, interest and drill are required.
#12
Originally Posted by old and new
A heli-coil is a brand, now it's a general term used for a thread repair procedure. the kits cost 12 to 20 bucks. Easy to do but harder to explain, you need a drill and well..not much else.Before I go on, interest and drill are required.
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#13
Originally Posted by blickblocks
I asked the shop guy about that and he didn't know about them. I don't know who I'd turn to for that, or if it's even worth it.
I've had to use a propane torch and 5' cheater bar on some really stubborn pedals before and never buggered up the threads removing them (I have killed one or two with sloppy installs long ago)
You can probably find at least 20 ways to fix your crank arm, including helicoils, via https://www.mcmaster.com/
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,047
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: Custom Holland Ti road bike, Custom track bike I traded a painting for.
parktools site has an ask the mechanic section and i think there was a post about this. might want to check there
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you succumb
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#17
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
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HeliCoil.. pronounced HEELY Coil, is a kit actaully,it contains little springy things (inserts). You Ream-Out or over drill the hole. You use a "tap" that comes in the kit that's over-size thread on it's outside and the same as your pedal spindle thread on the inserts INSIDE.Nuff said, easy to figure out. The size you need is 9/16 " YES inches NOT metric, lucky that way, it has a "pitch" called SAE or Fine thread, NOT the most common,not an odd-ball either. Parts stores have it.If the parts store seems confused or seems to wanna make YOU feel odd, find another store. I used and sold SO many, I kept them within fast reach.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
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OH another thing, if the LEFT side crankarm is the bad one, you'll need to get a right side , right-hand threaded pedal too. Lefts have counter-clockwise thread,a pain ,really difficult to get stuff for,you need the pedal with RT.hand thread. IF your RIGHT side arm is the bad one,you're OK
#19
Originally Posted by old and new
HeliCoil.. pronounced HEELY Coil, is a kit actaully,it contains little springy things (inserts). You Ream-Out or over drill the hole. You use a "tap" that comes in the kit that's over-size thread on it's outside and the same as your pedal spindle thread on the inserts INSIDE.Nuff said, easy to figure out. The size you need is 9/16 " YES inches NOT metric, lucky that way, it has a "pitch" called SAE or Fine thread, NOT the most common,not an odd-ball either. Parts stores have it.If the parts store seems confused or seems to wanna make YOU feel odd, find another store. I used and sold SO many, I kept them within fast reach.
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#20
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,017
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From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
Originally Posted by blickblocks
Which would be cheaper, a kit or a crank?
I would look at it as a chance to upgrade. Surely you can Craigslist some decent square taper road cranks for not too much dough.
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
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if it's the left side that's bad, save the cost of a pedal and trouble, get a crank or arm. If it's the right, OK I see that now, it IS the right. Call around for a HeliCoil, or "thread repair kit" of another brand, cost 12 to 15 in that size.Make sure the tread on the pedal is good. HeliCoils work well but there IS another brand..S/S .Porche uses thread inserts through-out the engines, they work. You find the kit, PM me,I'll advise. The arm 'll be a bear to find, as far as swappin' the crank-out, perhaps but more work and $$$
#22
Biggity-bam
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 698
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From: West Lafayette IN, Ann Arbor MI
Bikes: Pista Concept, Fetish beater, Fuji road
It definetely sounds like the shop guy tried to tap-clean the reverse threaded crank arm with a normal thread tap. He should buy you a new crankset.
HeliCoil's are great, they are actually stronger than normal threads in most conditions. Like old and new said, Porsche uses them on their engine components, so does GM performance.
HeliCoil's are great, they are actually stronger than normal threads in most conditions. Like old and new said, Porsche uses them on their engine components, so does GM performance.
#23
Originally Posted by Learn_not2burn
It definetely sounds like the shop guy tried to tap-clean the reverse threaded crank arm with a normal thread tap. He should buy you a new crankset.
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#24
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Williston, VT
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-T, Soma Rush, Razesa Racer, ⅔ of a 1983 Holdsworth Professional, Nishiki Riviera Winter Bike
Yeah a helicoil would get the job done, but then again, would you spend $12 fixing a 20-something-year-old Sakae crankarm when you could probably get a similar used one for the same price, or a newer better one for $25?
#25
Well, I went to Shaker Cycle, Mitch only could find one old crank with the same BCD and it was a lower grade crank. So I ended up buying a new Origin8 track crank. I'll post pics when it's installed. I'm still a little fumed over this whole fiasco, I should've just left the pedals as they were.
edit - The old ugly Fuji crank was $22 and the new Origin8 was $50. I just looked it up and the Origin8 goes for $40-$65, so I think I got a decent deal.
edit - The old ugly Fuji crank was $22 and the new Origin8 was $50. I just looked it up and the Origin8 goes for $40-$65, so I think I got a decent deal.
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