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Nitto Jaguar stem

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Old 09-18-07 | 09:23 PM
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Nitto Jaguar stem

So, I'm wondering how you get your handlebars into/out of the Jaguar stem. From looking at pics on the tubes, it seems like it just has that one bolt. Do you spread that opening to switch out bars? Seems like that would weaken it quite a bit. Or, do you have to slide your bars through the hole? Seems like that would require unwrapping/grip removal. What's the deal?
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Old 09-18-07 | 09:25 PM
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You shouldn't have to. As you loosen the bolt, the diameter of the hole gets bigger. You do have to remove your grips to change bars/ stems.
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Old 09-18-07 | 09:52 PM
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no, you don't spread the stem normally, you just have to rewrap bars/ take grips on and off to put the bars on or take them off. Just as a hint, there's a good possibility that you'll get flamed for having such a "stupid question". Just a heads up...
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Old 09-18-07 | 09:57 PM
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i was gonna flame you for this question until i saw the last post and it kind of made me feel bad.
but no. the bars slide in there real easy when they're the right size and are free of brakes / grips / shifters / tape.

before they made pop top stems, single bolt was the only game in town. and it worked for a while.
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Old 09-18-07 | 09:58 PM
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Yeah, this is up there with that "what's this thing on my saddle?" post. You know, where the guy had the post clamp still attached to the rails?

It's like you've only ever seen a face-off stem. Is that the case?
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Old 09-18-07 | 10:18 PM
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Hey duderz, Nitto actually makes a tool to spread the clamp apart it works pretty nice likehttps://https://www.benscycle.net/inde...f1c71d2e8eaf0d
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Old 09-18-07 | 10:22 PM
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... yeah bike companies tend to make a lot of tools that you'll never ACTUALLY need.
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Old 09-18-07 | 10:27 PM
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you shouldn't need to spread for your bars if you are running Nitto risers, steel or alu Nitto drops in various sizes....and that's all i've ever used with a Jaguar.
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Old 09-19-07 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mathletics
Yeah, this is up there with that "what's this thing on my saddle?" post. You know, where the guy had the post clamp still attached to the rails?

It's like you've only ever seen a face-off stem. Is that the case?
No, I've seen plenty of single bolts but have only switched bars on the bike I have now which has the face-off stem.
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Old 09-19-07 | 01:47 AM
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I actually had to use that Nitto special tool for my Nitto ProAA stem and Nitto B123 CrMo bars. I tried to pry a little with an open-ended wrench but put a ding in the stem (damn!). So, I went to a local shop and the owner let me borrow the tool for a minute. It worked like a charm.

Gale
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Old 09-19-07 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by LoRoK
Seems like that would weaken it quite a bit.
aluminum does not fatigue like steel.
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Old 09-19-07 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gbarchus
I actually had to use that Nitto special tool for my Nitto ProAA stem and Nitto B123 CrMo bars. I tried to pry a little with an open-ended wrench but put a ding in the stem (damn!). So, I went to a local shop and the owner let me borrow the tool for a minute. It worked like a charm.

Gale
Love those tools. Like a prybar for the gentry.
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Old 09-19-07 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by dmotoguy
aluminum does not fatigue like steel.
not exactly sure what you're trying to say here. the statement is correct at face value, but should be clarified by noting the fact that aluminum is significantly *more* susceptible to fatigue...especially the high-tensile heat treated alloys often used in bike parts.
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Old 09-19-07 | 11:11 AM
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You shouldn't have to expand the clamp opening to mount any of the standard Nitto 25.4 mm track bars. You WILL find that you may have to rotate the stem around to find the position at which the bars slide through it -- the stem has to be behind the bars at one point, in front at another, etc. Just feed it through gently so you don't nick the bars and if it doesn't slide right through, back off and try another angle. This ain't rocket science.
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Old 09-19-07 | 12:04 PM
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you do not need a tool, once you get the bar all the way onto the 25.4 diameter section, just wriggle it back and forth until it is centered.

I have even got a painted 25.4 straight bar onto a jaguar stem with no scratching. Plenty of detergent though, and a little prying just to make sure.

Like 114 said earlier, the stem hole has to rotate around the bar at certain points of its epic journey to the center of the bars.
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Old 07-07-10 | 05:23 PM
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Bikes: I have a red 88 Cannondale R800 Criterium still all original and in great shape. And my daily rider is my 80 somthing Black Ross Gran Tour Fixie with burgundy grips and saddle and black deep v rims. SHARP!

What stem length should I get?

Ok I'm 5'8", 31" inseam. I ride a 55cm frame and the stem I have now is 90mm long. I feel fine on this set up, no back or neck pain from the position. The stem I have now is a typical road style stem as far as angle goes. The Jaguar has a pretty steep drop, a 58 degree angle I believe. I plan on running a NITTO B201AA Riser bar and it has 50mm rise. I suppose it should compensate for the drop some. Now, will I need to get a different length stem or is 90mm sufficient?
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Old 07-07-10 | 06:07 PM
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This thread is three years old. Please just start a new thread.

If you need help either ask a friend or go to a shop. This is difficult to do via the internet. We are talking centimeters and millimeters here. There is a reason stems come in 1cm increments. 1cm can make a big difference.
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Old 07-07-10 | 10:02 PM
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Bikes: I have a red 88 Cannondale R800 Criterium still all original and in great shape. And my daily rider is my 80 somthing Black Ross Gran Tour Fixie with burgundy grips and saddle and black deep v rims. SHARP!

Preesh
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