Hottest chain ever.

i seem to recall that halflink chains are unidirectional, suggesting that they might be inappropriate on a fix. not sure though.

This is incorrect.

not entirely

yea its the top pic that i saw...looks SO Fing heavy!!

How are these chains unidirectional ?

They are not unidirectional in the sense that you cant back pedal, but they are designed to be mounted in a specific direction, they are not symetrical like regular links.

https://www.theshadowconspiracy.com/instr/chain.html

The chains rollers are at a constant pitch (equidistant) and are sized equally.

It make no difference which way around the chain is mounted.

Consider the thought experiment that would be turning your bike (and its symmetrical drive chain) over and mounting the chain whilst your bike is upside down.

EDIT

Logic inference has kicked in:

The reason it is recommended that the chain should be mounted one way is that the curved/shaped lower part (as opposed to the flat upper part) allows its use on very low tooth count sprockets (down to 9T) - as the curved/shaped lower part of the chain allows it to bend/wrap around small diameters.

This does not mean you cannot mount the chain backwards - just not upside down.

On larger rear sprockets even this consideration can be ignored.

Hope all that makes sense !

my spatial intelligence blows

ill take your word for it ^

edit: we came to an agreement whilst I was trying to put my thoughts into words

But I still think that the chains were only intended for freewheel applications and that the shape of the plates and the pulling force applied to them is what determines the direction they should go

the one time i threw my chain on my fixed i just flintstones stopped no problem

so i switched the chainring to the inner part of the crank and the chainline was dead on, i took it out to do some testing and it seemed like everything was working until the cog striped right off! i was going propery like 20 and locked it up, but i am thinking it is just the hub in general that sucks.

guess i have to go get another wheel built, i will check around to see what people are saying at good for hubs,


oh and the cog is still on, it is just crossing all the threads...

Sounds like a bunch of bad luck... But at least the stripped hub will keep you off the streets brakeless with a faulty chain . What kind of hub was it?

shimano..

looking around for a new one now and stumbled upon this.

What's the hub spacing, is it 135?, or a level?

Also, as I already know I'm not cool ... What's this ted-shred ****?

-Rob.

The problem is most likely a combination of wear on the cog and chain ring, this is most often caused by a streched chain. My KMC chain was streched a little over a 1/4th of an inch before I replaced it. <-- bad idea. 12 full links of chain should be exactly 12 inches.If there is over 1/16th of an inch of stretch, you should consider getting a new chain, 1/8 of an inch of strech, it should be replace ASAP. the cog/chainring should be replaced as well

my chain tool says the chain is fine..

already removing the spokes and looking for a new hub, dont mind spending $$ if it will be dependable.

jesus man, it never ends.

Alright, ****, this is irrelevent but it is bothering me. It's once IN a while. Like I waited a while and it happened once, then I waited a while again, and again it happened once. Right? It is also properly drive TRAIN, right? You have a chain that is part of your drivetrain, but your drivetrain is not just your goddamn chain. If it was we would just say chain. Am I right and and ass hole, or am I just an ass hole?

What if my chainring is bent? Is there a relatively easy way to bend it back and fix it or will I just have to buy a new one?

It involves pliers, a level surface, and a lot of patience.

I run a KMC 710... I love it.