Got a frameset on the way- spacing should be 130mm, IIRC. I don't know what reasonably-priced SS hub or wheel is currently available in that spacing (I don't think I can get a 42mm chainline with a 44t ring on those stays), so my plan was to just get a road wheelset and use cassette spacers and a splined SS cog.

Here are my questions:

1- Is the hub type a problem with track-style ends? It seems to me that a QR would work just as well for this application as it does for SS conversions, the only difference being the direction of the opening.

2- If I use the QR method, do I need to add MKS chain tensioners for safety?

3- If the QR idea is NOT safe, can I use a hub that's had the axle replaced with a solid one and track nuts (I don't know if anyone does that sort of work any more, but it came to mind).

Thanks!

From what I've seen you should be fine doing QR with the SS, no matter what since your chain ought to keep your wheel from falling out the back and even if the QR does slip forward the worst thing it will do is contact the brakes or ST and your just slow to a stop.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong - there might be other problems with that setup, but AFAIK you ought to be fine.

As for #2, chain tensioners might help (?) but probably aren't necessary. As for #3, many hubs use a standard axle that can be changed out one way or the other, if you've every used a cone wrench you can do it yourself.

Run a QR with a Surly Tuggnut. It works like a champ on my Klein Fervor.

And if you're just going to run it SS, I wouldn't even bother looking for a SS specific wheelset. You can find a solid cheap freehub wheelset for the same/less money and it'll run better than a cheap ass BMX freewheel.

Oh, and both IRO and Surly make affordable 130mm hubs, or you could always replace the axle on any 120mm hub.

Why don't you wait until you mount your crank and ring and see what your hub options are? If you can the the ring in as close to achieving 42mm your options are wide open. Formula hubs come with long axles so you can space them out and even dish the wheel if necessary.

1-problem?...no

2-need?...no

3-the qr is NOT a problem, don't let anyone tell you different.

Thanks for the quick responses. The crank, bb and hs are part of the purchase, so I'll be able to measure chainline when it arrives. I think the ring's on the inside, so I'll be buying a bottom bracket that will allow me to put it on the outside, or if the spider (I think they're 130 BCD) won't clear the stays, trying out one of the 110/74 cranks I have lying around here. Once I've got that fitted, I'll start looking for a wheel. I don't expect to be able to get 42mm with the smallest chainring I think looks good on the frame (42 or 44), tho.

The stock San Joses use a 42t chainring on a ~42mm chainline without a problem, I don't see why it wouldn't work for you.

I'm not 100% sure what the spacing is on those.

I should think any ol' wheelset with a track hub will work fine with the San Jose. The stock Alex wheelset with flip-flop works great on my SJ and my Aeroheads and Mavic Open Sports with Formula hubs also fit it just fine.

Never say never. I was one of those people who thought that QR isn't a problem on SS for years and years. Then I built up this Klein and it slips like crazy. I'd venture to guess that it has a bit to do with the gearing and a bit to do with the smoothish dropouts. I just got a Tuggnut and it's been fine.

okay, got the frame. It's about 44mm, and the ring is about as close to the stays as it needs to be. I'll keep the stock crank and I'll keep the ring on the inside, because I found a place to get silver chainguards (thanks, justinb for the tip). I guess that cancels out any flip-flop option, but a road wheelset with cog spacers and a SS cog should work fine. Am I right on both counts (no one makes a 44mm chainline flip-flop hub, and that a road cassette has enough depth cogwise to allow me 44mm)?

incorrect, when the tire hits the seat tube or chainstay it stops fast, and since the only time when you are putting that much pressure on the wheel is when you are out of the saddle it extrasucks. Your pedals(at least on a fix) come to a dead stop and your ass is over the handlebars before you can define defenestration

just clarifying

This is a singlespeed. It will skid to a stop. You're right though, best case scenario, you skid or slow to a stop. Worst case you grind a little dirt into your chainstay or seattube and lay the bike down. But if you go over your handlebars it isn't because of the rear wheel.