Strongest Chain?
#76
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
This thread just fails so many times it's not even funny. 3 pages of garbage and all you really needed to do was read dutrets post. I've already posted innumerous amounts of time on chain failure.
You're realistically only going to break a chain in two ways -
1) extreme wear
2) improper installation
You're realistically only going to break a chain in two ways -
1) extreme wear
2) improper installation
#79
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Measure with a 12" ruler. On a new chain it should line up exactly in the middle of each roller. This distance only grows larger as the chain wears. Some people call this "stretch", which is a misnomer. It isn't stretching. It's wearing.
1/16" past the 12" mark is usually a good time to start changing the chain. At 1/8" you're probably looking at a whole new drivetrain.
1/16" past the 12" mark is usually a good time to start changing the chain. At 1/8" you're probably looking at a whole new drivetrain.
#80
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
#81
Measure with a 12" ruler. On a new chain it should line up exactly in the middle of each roller. This distance only grows larger as the chain wears. Some people call this "stretch", which is a misnomer. It isn't stretching. It's wearing.
1/16" past the 12" mark is usually a good time to start changing the chain. At 1/8" you're probably looking at a whole new drivetrain.
1/16" past the 12" mark is usually a good time to start changing the chain. At 1/8" you're probably looking at a whole new drivetrain.
Good link for measuring chain wear using the ruler
Last edited by bigbris1; 11-09-08 at 04:30 PM.
#84
I use a lot of KMC K710 BMX/SS chain (1/8th) and have racked up a crapload of hard miles with no problems whatsoever on my fixed gear bikes, single speed coasters, and my 3 speeds.
It has a rated strength of 1300 kg.
It is strong as hell and very quiet and has become a favourite of mine and many other ss and fixed gear riders here as it is simply bombproof.
For 3/32 chain I use KMC X8.93 7 speed chain or Z51 7 speed chain and again, have had no issues.
I get my chain at cost but even at retail prices... a decent chain is all of $15.00.
It has a rated strength of 1300 kg.
It is strong as hell and very quiet and has become a favourite of mine and many other ss and fixed gear riders here as it is simply bombproof.
For 3/32 chain I use KMC X8.93 7 speed chain or Z51 7 speed chain and again, have had no issues.
I get my chain at cost but even at retail prices... a decent chain is all of $15.00.
Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 11-09-08 at 06:29 PM.
#85
[QUOTE=idiq;7818563]BADUMP TTT!
Actually, you do. Having the NJS stamp has absolutely no bearing on the strength / toughness of a chain. NJS is a quality-of-production standard. Similar to ISO9000 in this regard, ISO9000 says nothing about how good a business process actually is, rather it simply assures that the process is to the same quality standard of other processes. So, having the NJS stamp does not follow by necessity that it is any stronger or tougher of a chain.
True, NJS is a certification of Quality, But it also has guidelines for Materials used. While the NJS stamp doesn't correlate directly to strength measured in pounds of kilo's, I think that we all can agree that Starting from High quality Materials and having High Quality control and consistency can only form a product reflecting those qualities. Plus, If you know anything about Japanese culture, they still have great honor vested in the craftsmanship of their products. So while the ISO regulations are simply put in effect to cut down on corner cutters, NJS is a branding of the standard of excellence.
Actually, you do. Having the NJS stamp has absolutely no bearing on the strength / toughness of a chain. NJS is a quality-of-production standard. Similar to ISO9000 in this regard, ISO9000 says nothing about how good a business process actually is, rather it simply assures that the process is to the same quality standard of other processes. So, having the NJS stamp does not follow by necessity that it is any stronger or tougher of a chain.
True, NJS is a certification of Quality, But it also has guidelines for Materials used. While the NJS stamp doesn't correlate directly to strength measured in pounds of kilo's, I think that we all can agree that Starting from High quality Materials and having High Quality control and consistency can only form a product reflecting those qualities. Plus, If you know anything about Japanese culture, they still have great honor vested in the craftsmanship of their products. So while the ISO regulations are simply put in effect to cut down on corner cutters, NJS is a branding of the standard of excellence.
#86
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
For what's it's worth, I've seen a car transmission hung from a swingset using a 1/8 chain. Like a bazillion people have mentioned above in 4 pages of comments, chains are pretty impossible to break when used properly. The Izumi track chains are louder than hell by the way.
#88
Since no one else has posted this it might be helpful re KMC chains...
K710 Kool Chain
For the "Kool" guys KMC makes this chain with an impressive tensile strength of 1,300 Kg.
It fits most sprockets/freewheels/cogs and is smooth on the outside so it doesn't get stuck on
a handrail or coping. It is also available in the K710SL (Super Light) version, which is nearly 20%
lighter than the K710!
K910 Kool Chain
The K910 is a bigger version of the K710 Kool chain with a tensile strength of a whopping 1,500 Kg.
BMX Freestyle has lots of street riders who cannot use a normal chain, simply because the chains are
not strong enough for their type of riding. KMC makes this Fat Kool Chain for those whose main
concern is chain strength rather than weight.
Z510HX & Z610HX
This is a perfect chain for racing and Heavy Duty BMX use, the tensile strength is a good 1,200 Kg. It
can be used on almost every front sprocket and rear freewheel/Cog. Light but strong, this chain is a
bestseller in the BMX Freestyle world, but it is also becoming very popular in the mid-high end range
internal gear hub equipped bikes, because of it's long life and high reliability.

Source: https://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=bu_bicycle#a
For the "Kool" guys KMC makes this chain with an impressive tensile strength of 1,300 Kg.
It fits most sprockets/freewheels/cogs and is smooth on the outside so it doesn't get stuck on
a handrail or coping. It is also available in the K710SL (Super Light) version, which is nearly 20%
lighter than the K710!
K910 Kool Chain
The K910 is a bigger version of the K710 Kool chain with a tensile strength of a whopping 1,500 Kg.
BMX Freestyle has lots of street riders who cannot use a normal chain, simply because the chains are
not strong enough for their type of riding. KMC makes this Fat Kool Chain for those whose main
concern is chain strength rather than weight.
Z510HX & Z610HX
This is a perfect chain for racing and Heavy Duty BMX use, the tensile strength is a good 1,200 Kg. It
can be used on almost every front sprocket and rear freewheel/Cog. Light but strong, this chain is a
bestseller in the BMX Freestyle world, but it is also becoming very popular in the mid-high end range
internal gear hub equipped bikes, because of it's long life and high reliability.

Source: https://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=bu_bicycle#a
#89
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
#90
I have a Regina CX chain & just did this ruler (tape measure) test & my chain falls exactly 1/8" below the 12 mark. What's up?
Good link for measuring chain wear using the ruler
Good link for measuring chain wear using the ruler
It's actually false belief that one can accurately gauge the wear of a chain based on the measurement between pin to pin. Because the brute of the wear only occurs on the pin (rivet) where the roller is over, it does not effect the external measurement, but rather the measurement that actually effects the Drivetrain. Also, Chains very, very, very rarely stretch @ the plates, further discrediting the user of a ruler. My suggestion, either user a vernier caliper or an actual chain measurement tool to accurately gauge what chain stretch your cogs & chainrings are feeling.
#92
bigbris1 and Operatior,
It's actually false belief that one can accurately gauge the wear of a chain based on the measurement between pin to pin. Because the brute of the wear only occurs on the pin (rivet) where the roller is over, it does not effect the external measurement, but rather the measurement that actually effects the Drivetrain. Also, Chains very, very, very rarely stretch @ the plates, further discrediting the user of a ruler. My suggestion, either user a vernier caliper or an actual chain measurement tool to accurately gauge what chain stretch your cogs & chainrings are feeling.
It's actually false belief that one can accurately gauge the wear of a chain based on the measurement between pin to pin. Because the brute of the wear only occurs on the pin (rivet) where the roller is over, it does not effect the external measurement, but rather the measurement that actually effects the Drivetrain. Also, Chains very, very, very rarely stretch @ the plates, further discrediting the user of a ruler. My suggestion, either user a vernier caliper or an actual chain measurement tool to accurately gauge what chain stretch your cogs & chainrings are feeling.
False belief my ass.
You could use a precision caliper but it begs the question WHY ?
When the pin to pin measure is 12 1/16 you replace your chain.
Period.





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