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Lightest track crankset?

Old 12-06-08, 05:34 PM
  #1  
Waychel
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Lightest track crankset?

I'm in the market for a new crankset, and I want to try to get something really light. I don't push a huge gear, so most cranks are stiff enough for me. What do you recommend?

Truvativ Omnium
FSA Carbon Track
Sugino 75
Sugino Grand Mighty
Campagnolo Record
Dura-Ace 7600
Dura-Ace 7710

Which of these is the lightest? Any other suggestions? I'm leaning toward the 7600.

Thanks a lot.
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Old 12-06-08, 05:38 PM
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If you want light cranks, get a road crankset and use 3/32" chain.
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Old 12-06-08, 06:14 PM
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Sugino messenger cranks are only 458 g. or at least that's what the interweb is telling me
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Old 12-06-08, 06:24 PM
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Factor in the bb into those weights as the Truvativ Omnium has a lighter bb than the others I believe.
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Old 12-06-08, 06:25 PM
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You can always mill + drill too.

A good diet and exercise will always provide better results than a lighter crank tho




Yeah, I'm no help.
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Old 12-06-08, 06:42 PM
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i'm sure zipp makes something stupid light if you are looking to spend your money on that sorta thing.

i agree that getting a road double will find you with a lighter crank than true track cranksets. i agree with looking at the BB weight too. the move has been most recently to external BB's in road cranks, providing a larger (stiffer) and hollow (lighter) axle.

for instance (these are road weights):
DuraAce FC-7800: 761g
DuraAce FC-7701 crank: 599g + DuraAce FC-7703 BB: 211g = 810g
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Old 12-06-08, 07:07 PM
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really light option that would be somewhat cheap.. but lacking in the bling dept would be to get a recent 2 piece road crank (with external bb). i got my tiagra crankset used for something like 60 bucks, in a 165 length. don't know weights though.

for real weights, check weightweenies. or get a sram red road crank, put whatever gear you want on it.
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Old 12-06-08, 07:18 PM
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Not that it's totally relevant but my Stonglight Pulsion is 540 grams with the ti bottom bracket and single ring.

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Old 12-06-08, 08:52 PM
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http://www.gottaridebikes.com/Mercha...t_Code=CCR0007

ouch.
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Old 12-06-08, 10:09 PM
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rings

Needs one of these

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Old 12-07-08, 07:29 AM
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u want something REALLYlight, but in all honestly most of the cranks you listed have a nominal difference. there are other , more logical, places that you can save weight
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Old 12-07-08, 08:47 AM
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Heh. do a google image search for "stronglight pulsion fail."

Apparently the first generation or whatever of these had some serious problems.

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Old 12-07-08, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MIN View Post
If you want light cranks, get a road crankset and use 3/32" chain.
I'd definitely be into trying a road crankset. Two problems: 1) I know nothing about road bikes. 2) I'm very committed to 165mm cranks, and most road cranks I find on eBay are 170mm +.

Any suggestions? I'll look into the Tiagra.

And to convert a double into a single, all I need are shorter track chainring bolts, right?

Last edited by Waychel; 12-07-08 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 12-07-08, 11:07 AM
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I found new old stock Campy record road in 165 mm at Nashbar last year for $120! If you use road cranks, don't use outboard bottom bracket so that you can use the outside ring position and adjust your chainline with bb spindle length.
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Old 12-07-08, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MIN View Post
I found new old stock Campy record road in 165 mm at Nashbar last year for $120! If you use road cranks, don't use outboard bottom bracket so that you can use the outside ring position and adjust your chainline with bb spindle length.
Can I run a two-piece crank designed for outboard bottom brackets with a regular bottom bracket?

Something like this?

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...0Road%20Cranks

Or are you saying that I should stick with regular three-piece cranks?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Also, I'm planning to run the smaller ring. Would that cause a problem?
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Old 12-07-08, 11:40 AM
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If you use outboard BB road cranks, you would need to use the inside ring position (goofy aesthetics) to maintain a decent chainline since the BB spindle is permanently attached to those cranksets . I would use Isis, Octalink or square taper bottom brackets.
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Old 12-07-08, 11:41 AM
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with the outboard bearings, you can't just grab a different bottom bracket. however, if you are doing a conversion (or anything with a 126 or 130 mm rear spacing, you have the ability to move the chainline between 6 an 10 mm, respectivly, in order to get it straight. normally, within 2 or 3 mm is acceptable. you will probably have to fiddle with the rings on the inside or the outside of the crank, and use a few different washers. i have not used one on a fixed gear, but don't see any major issues as long as you aren't chainline anal.

that 105 crank you linked does not include a bottom bracket, so be ready to factor in another $40, and at that price you are back into seguino 75 territory, hardly worth it in my opinion. check out the for sale forums of this board and craigslist in your local area for real deals, or if you can a bike co-op. we sold a set of ultegra cranks (used, but decent shape- octalink bb) for $35. i picked up my square taper 105's for $20, but they aren't shiny at all.

I am running an 80's 105 road double (square taper), with a zen messenger ring on the inside crankarm. have no idea what spacing bb came on the bike, but it lines up damn near perfect with my surly cog on a formula hub. now, i have had friends who have tried all sorts of crap trying to get theirs reasonably straight, but mine just worked fine.
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Old 12-07-08, 12:08 PM
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How about these:

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...0Road%20Cranks

With the matching BB. Using only the inner ring mounted inside of the spider.

643 g (crankset) + 222 g (bb) - 85ish g (outer ring) = 780 g

Is this lighter than most high-end track cranksets? This should give me a reasonable chainline?
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