Park Tools' website has a very handy repair guide.

The bosses are silver brazed onto the frame; if you try to remove them you're likely to damage the tubing. It's very thin -- just a little over half a millimeter thick -- at that point. Just leave them alone.

Damn, I think your right. Sorry, I concede. I've obviously spent far too much time in the touring section, and not nearly enough in the rest of the catalog.

You know how the frameset fit into this numbering system, is a frame labeled 700 going to be a 720 or a 760?

720's... mmmmm !

Vintage steel Treks are some of the nicest bikes ever made... I traded away a 720 that was too large for me and got my 1954 Raleigh Sports and gave a another early Trek 610 to my friend.

If I ever come across one in my size I won't be parting with it.

yeah, i was able to get the shifters off cleanly without damage and it looks fine with them on there. i mean up close it looks kind of weird but it is totally fine.

You have a very desireable bike there and the advice not to cut / grind or alter the appearance of the frame is very sound as it could fetch a good price if it was intact.

Neither. During the late 70s and early 80s there were two basic frame geometries: the n00 (where n is 5, 7, or 9 depending on material), which was a "sport touring" geometry; and the n30 which was a "racing geometry with shorter chainstays and less fork rake.

The 720 frame is a true touring design with 44cm chainstays, double eyelets on the dropouts (for fenders and racks) and generous fork rake. The 760 design was quite similar to the old 730 geometry.

I guess you can say I am somewhat learning this as I go. I have standard shop tools and I have, because of this project begun amassing a collection of bike tools. Can someone please tell me what specific tool I need (maybe add a link, picture, or some sort of brand name and model number) as well as some direction on how exactly I would get this damn thing out? I have looked around at various web tutorials and websites but it seems like the bbs are always a little different than mine, so I have added pictures below of the actual unit. Thank you for your help!!!!

https://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=93

you need a lockring spanner and a pin spanner. the pin spanner engages those little holes in the cup in the first picture, and the lockring spanner grabs on to the ring around it (the lockring). they are tightened against each other, with the lockring tightened against the bb shell. you want to loosen the lockring from the bb shell - then you'll be able to loosen the cup.

The tools you need typically come in a set:



Remember, the fixed cup will be a left-hand thread (righty-loosey).

i have looked around on the net for these but i keep getting some pretty expensive and expensive looking ones. could someone link me up to these exact tools? hopefully for a more reasonable price?

also, i purchased a "spin doctor tool kit" but apparently it doesnt have those tools.

this is what it looked like,

https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=25&item=HCW-5

https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=25&item=SPA-6

these two tools will do the job and more and cost $33.00 together at my LBS

You did great for $90. I sold the frame for my old 1985 Trek 560 (too small) for $175.

It was a great rider, with a high bottom bracket. I could fit 700x32 on it with no problems.

Here's a pic:

Apparently modern consumer tool kits assume that you will have a cartridge type bottom bracket, and thus don't include the tools required to overhaul traditional bottom brackets. The Park tools mentioned above will work fine. The only thing lacking is the fixed cup tool, which you won't need unless you plan on replacing the fixed cup.

Those buggers tend to be pretty tight, and the consumer grade tools don't always work well with really tight fixed cups. This is the tool I prefer to use to install and remove fixed cups:

would you suggest having my lbs help me take it out and just completely replace the bb with a new style one? or should i stick to this one and purchase the tools?

for ease and convenience i would suggest a new modern sealed cartridge BB, but be sure to clean, re-grease and save the original with all the other original parts.

I love the old Treks. My last Trek was a 660, around the same vintage as yours. I got it because someone had gone to the trouble of fully equipping it with Campy Record parts which I intended to scavenge and translplant onto an old Benotto frame I had recently picked up. But after a taking the Trek for a test ride I found I couldn't do it. I've rarely ridden a bike that had such a supple and lively feel to it, the Benotto might have looked prettier, but it just wasn't as good.

Enjoy your 560,

found an 84 trek 560 in my grandparents old barn while cleaning it out. it used to be my uncle's until he parked it 20 years ago. reynolds 501 tubing (precursor to 531) and decent components. i cleaned the frame to bare metal (was rusted pretty bad), decided it was salvageable, repainted it with a metallic flake black paint, and before i went any further, decided to leave it geared and put on a modern 105 group. it is now my race bike, and it feels great. still riding a conversion, but might just be brazing my own track frame this summer.

Minor correction: 531 tubing was introduced in the 1930s; 501 tubing was introduced in the 1980s. 531 is a Manganese-Molybdenum alloy, drawn into seamless tubes; 501 is a Chromium-Molybdenum alloy formed from rolled sheet, welded and drawn to the proper diameters. 531 was Reynolds' top of the line tubing for decades, until they introduced the heat treated version as 753. 753 tubing was never widely used because of its difficult nature and price. 501 tubing was introduced to compete with other second-tier tubing such as Columbus Alelle, Tange Mangalloy, and TrueTemper.

Good for you to restore that 560; it should be a great bike for you.

TrueTemper has many tiers of tubing, some comparable to Columbus SL and Renyolds 531, do they not?

interesting. never had the time to research 501- just assumed it was older than the 531 they switched to a few years later. now i won't feel bad if i end up beating on it in a few years!

it will continue to be ridden, but who knows what form...

just to let you guys know, the bottom bracket issue was much easier handled at my lbs for ten bucks. they had the proper tools to take it off and they measured the bottom bracket shell and fitted me up with a newer sealed bracket, which i actually have the tools for. in all, i spent 35 bucks for the new bottom bracket, which was as much if not less than the price of the tools. so i got the old one off, a new bottom bracket, again that i have tools for, and i got it all for the price of the tools to take the old one off. my lbs didnt even have these tools for sale as they said they never sell them. they told me they have them in their chest exclusively to remove old bbs and repair them or completely replace them with sealed bbs which is what they suggest.

here is a little update on my conversion/restoration. i have completely stripped the bike down, refinished the frame and sanded away all of the rust, primed it and painted it. i did the paint job myself, as im not really trying to make it look all flashy, just get rid of and seal up the rust. check it out!