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#26
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
I saw these bikes at a bike shop in Bayonne the other week. Seemed nice, not too heavy. They guy wanted low $300 for it.
How you liking it so far? What part of NNJ are you from? Im in Ridgewood. Used to have a Kilo TT, but ended up selling it, well due to me needing rend money at the time, and also because like you said, these NNJ hills are killer. I just wasnt having as much fun on it. I would take to the bike path by my, rusn 12 miles back n forth, and that was fun. but out on the roads with thehills, i could do them, just wasnt as much fun. So now i'm currently building a geared bike.
How you liking it so far? What part of NNJ are you from? Im in Ridgewood. Used to have a Kilo TT, but ended up selling it, well due to me needing rend money at the time, and also because like you said, these NNJ hills are killer. I just wasnt having as much fun on it. I would take to the bike path by my, rusn 12 miles back n forth, and that was fun. but out on the roads with thehills, i could do them, just wasnt as much fun. So now i'm currently building a geared bike.
#27
:)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,391
Likes: 1
From: duluth
Bikes: '07 Pista, '09 Fantom Cross Uno, '8? Miyata, '67 Stingray, '0? Zoo mod trials, Tallbike, Chopper, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '67 Triumph Chopper, '69 CB350, '58 BSA Spitfire, '73 CB450
Get a new (big) cog and chain. Look for a gear inch calculator and compare ratios to what you would normally run on a geared bike.
#28
Just smang it.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 1
From: Bellingham
Bikes: Felt F1X, Kilo WT, Dawes Deadeye
If you're planning on skidding with this bike, look at how many skid spots you'll have with a new cog/chainring setup. The calculation is pretty simple. Make a fraction with the teeth on the chainring on top and the teeth on the cog on the bottom (55/16 in your case) and reduce the fraction as far as possible. The bottom number of the new fraction is how many spots on your tire will get worn from skidding (the more the better). 55/16 is irreducible so you would have 16 skid spots. If you were to get a 48 tooth chainring, 48/16=3/1 so you would only wear out one spot on your tire. The most foolproof way to go is to get a 17 or 19 tooth cog in the back since they're prime numbers
edit: blast from the past
edit: blast from the past
Last edited by EpicSchwinn; 04-04-11 at 03:35 PM.
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: Madison, WI
Bikes: Trek Madone, Araya commute
So... I counted my teeths and turns out i am running 16t cog on 55~t chainring x.x i mean, wtf? but i dont think my dad will let me get a new crankset nor the bike shop will accept a full refund because the tires are prettty dirty. It'd take atleast one or two months before i can buy a new crankset with my own money. The ratios are really weird huh? Can't believe i've been riding these intense nj uphills in this bike x.x
If you would like more information about "GI" or "Gear Inches" check out the stickies area in SSFG forum HERE. There is some really good info that is pretty easy to understand. Basicly, a low GI number makes it easier to accelorate but takes away top speed. A higher GI number gives you more top speed but makes acceleration harder. Finding the perfect GI's for your type of riding is what most of us FG guys are always on the hunt for.
Hope this helps,
.Chris
EDIT: Got pwned by dates. Thanks for pointing that out Squirrelli!




