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Mounting a rear rack on a Kilo WT

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Mounting a rear rack on a Kilo WT

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Old 01-16-10 | 07:02 PM
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onegun, I guess you're right about there being a possibility that the rack eyelets are set up differently on some frame sizes. I suppose that's the case for any frame. But since the posted pic shows lots of clearance and has a much clearer angle than the other shot, I'm not inclined to be too worried for op. Whatever differences might come from smaller frame sizes, it would have to put a pretty big dent in that clearance to become a problem. Looking closely at that first pic, it appears there is clearance anyways on the inside of the arm that holds the cable stop.

Here, read this.

Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
When to Use The Rear Brake
Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time, but there are instances when the rear brake is preferred:
  • Slippery surfaces. On good, dry pavement, it is generally impossible to skid the front wheel by braking. On slippery surfaces, however it is possible to do so. It is nearly impossible to recover from a front wheel skid, so if there is a high risk of skidding, you're better off controlling your speed with the rear brake.
  • Bumpy surfaces. On rough surfaces, your wheels may actually bounce up into the air. If there is a chance of this, don't use the front brake. If you apply the front brake while the wheel is airborne, it will stop, and coming down on a stopped front wheel is a Very Bad Thing.
  • Front flat. If you have tire blowout or a sudden flat on the front wheel, you should use the rear brake alone to bring yourself to a safe stop. Braking a wheel that has a deflated tire can cause the tire to come off the rim, and is likely to cause a crash.
  • Broken cable...or other failure of the front brake.
  • Long mountain descents, when your front brake hand may get tired, or you may be at risk of overheating a rim and blowing a tire. For this situation, it is best to alternate between the front and rear brake, but not to use them both at once.

Last edited by mander; 01-16-10 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 01-16-10 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mander
Here, read this.
Mander, Sheldon Brown and I disagreed on many issues when he was alive, and nothing's changed now. He was a great guy, and avid cyclist, and someone who gave selflessly of his knowledge. But his orientation was the touring side of things while mine was racing, so our philosophy of cycling was 180 out. The biggest difference is that I raced, wrenched on a racing team, and coached (at least one) multi-year, multi-discipline state champion, and Sheldon simply wrote about such things.

Bottom line is that because Sheldon said it is so doesn't make it so. We disagreed on many things from bike handling issues to bike geometry issues to how to build the best wheels. Sheldon was not God, (and he would be the first to tell you that), and neither am I. (And please don't ANYONE mention Jobst Brandt next!)

Anyway, I'm done with this thread. I stand by my remarks, and probably own jerseys that are older than the people here telling me I don't know how to use a brake.
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Old 01-16-10 | 08:50 PM
  #28  
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The tubular struts on Tubus racks can be bent gracefully.
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Old 01-16-10 | 08:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Onegun
Anyway, I'm done with this thread. I stand by my remarks, and probably own jerseys that are older than the people here telling me I don't know how to use a brake.
I've got one from 1987...

On the subject of brakes, on all of my motorcycles (except the Goldwing) I've been able to modulate the front brake hard enough that the back tire makes a brief chirp after leaving the ground for a moment.
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Old 01-16-10 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian
I've got one from 1987...

On the subject of brakes, on all of my motorcycles (except the Goldwing) I've been able to modulate the front brake hard enough that the back tire makes a brief chirp after leaving the ground for a moment.
Heck, I can do stoppies with my VTR1000F....

Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 01-16-10 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 01-16-10 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Heck, I can do stoppies with my VTR1000F....
I don't know whether that's easier or harder than on a Harley. With the Goldwing, I've gotten the front wheel off the ground, and I've scraped the floorboards on both sides. But no stoppies. Might have something to do with that flat six sitting so low. Great bike, but anything under 80MPH was a waste of its potential.
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Old 01-16-10 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian
I don't know whether that's easier or harder than on a Harley. With the Goldwing, I've gotten the front wheel off the ground, and I've scraped the floorboards on both sides. But no stoppies. Might have something to do with that flat six sitting so low. Great bike, but anything under 80MPH was a waste of its potential.
Oh, definitely easier. It's a sportbike ala Ducati with a short wheelbase and the seating position is high and forward. Brakes are good too and I've upgraded the stock pads to Ferodos. It's got a mild hopup to about 120 rear wheel HP, and top end at the track is 165 mph. I don't do a lot of wheelies cuz it fries the clutch.

Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 01-17-10 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 01-17-10 | 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Onegun
Mander, Sheldon Brown and I disagreed on many issues when he was alive, and nothing's changed now. He was a great guy, and avid cyclist, and someone who gave selflessly of his knowledge. But his orientation was the touring side of things while mine was racing, so our philosophy of cycling was 180 out. The biggest difference is that I raced, wrenched on a racing team, and coached (at least one) multi-year, multi-discipline state champion, and Sheldon simply wrote about such things.

Bottom line is that because Sheldon said it is so doesn't make it so. We disagreed on many things from bike handling issues to bike geometry issues to how to build the best wheels. Sheldon was not God, (and he would be the first to tell you that), and neither am I. (And please don't ANYONE mention Jobst Brandt next!)

Anyway, I'm done with this thread. I stand by my remarks, and probably own jerseys that are older than the people here telling me I don't know how to use a brake.
That's fine, and sorry for my brusque earlier comments (have you got a jersey older than 1979?). But very few people who know what they're doing will say that it's ok to ride an ss with no rear brake, that a rear brake is only useful for tandemists on descents, and that Sheldon only thought otherwise because he was a tourist and didn't race. Every rider in the pro peloton runs two brakes, as required by both UCI regs and common sense.

Last edited by mander; 01-17-10 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 01-17-10 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mander
That's fine, and sorry for my brusque earlier comments (have you got a jersey older than 1979?). But very few people who know what they're doing will say that it's ok to ride an ss with no rear brake, that a rear brake is only useful for tandemists on descents, and that Sheldon only thought otherwise because he was a tourist and didn't race. Every rider in the pro peloton runs two brakes, as required by both UCI regs and common sense.
Simple physics that can be taken from automobile racing: braking into a turn with only front brakes may cause excessive understeer. Understeer on a bike will probably cause you to fall down hard. Thus, a rear brake will help balance the braking forces on the bicycle, allowing for more stable braking, and less accidents. There's a reason modern cars are equipped with brake force distribution mechanisms.

But what do I know, I'm not really avid cyclist.

That being said, anyone else think $400 for a new Bianchi Pista is a decent deal?
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Old 01-17-10 | 09:17 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Onegun
...I've been riding all kinds of bikes since 1972...
We're all really impressed but your age doesn't change the laws of physics. There are many people who use and love the rear brakes on their freewheeling (and sometimes even fixed gear) bikes. I appreciate that it is your opinion that rear brakes are unnecessary but you must recognize that it's just that- an opinion. Everyone is entitled to one.
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Old 01-17-10 | 09:41 AM
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The relative politeness of this thread is making me uncomfortable. I'm going to go read tarck for a bit, to restore some balance.
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Old 01-17-10 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mander
(have you got a jersey older than 1979?)
I just looked thru my collection and yes. Yes I do.

I have a hideous wool light blue, dark blue and orange "Cool Gear" jersey that dates from the early 70's. (Hell, they went out of business before 1979!). I have NO idea why I kept that one!

I also have your birthday jersey from Kucharik. In 1979, (John) Kucharik was commissioned to make the USA National Champion jersey, which he did. He also was allowed to sell copies of it minus the stars in the blue field. That's what the second one is. (Pics below)

MY, I was thin then!

Originally Posted by mander
But very few people who know what they're doing will say that it's ok to ride an ss with no rear brake, that a rear brake is only useful for tandemists on descents, and that Sheldon only thought otherwise because he was a tourist and didn't race. Every rider in the pro peloton runs two brakes, as required by both UCI regs and common sense.
hehe! "Common sense" is an oxymoron.

I run two brakes on my road bikes as well. The lever gives me a place to rest my right hand, and having the brake attached to it keeps the lever from flopping. I suppose I could run dummy levers like on the back of the tandems, but since most bikes come with two levers already ....

Every rider in the pro peleton, by UCI and "common sense" rule, wears a helmet. Do you?

By USCF rules, if you are a licensed rider at a race and go down the SIDEWALK to visit a buddy using your bike as a scooter, (without sitting the saddle or the other foot even clipped in!), you must have your helmet on and the strap clipped or it's a FINE!

UCI and USCF rules are, (to some degree), designed by lawyers, not riders.

Now the pics.





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Old 01-17-10 | 10:20 AM
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Ha ha, I'd wear either one of them all day for $10. I don't wear a helmet here in Edinburgh except when on my "serious" group ride; unlike at home in North America, it's only a requirement of common sense here among roadies and geekier commuters. I still think it's unadvisable to ride a bike with no rear brake though, and that the instability of a bike set up like this isn't merely a matter of convention or opinion. Whatever though, I don't think we will resolve this disagreement.

Last edited by mander; 01-17-10 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 01-17-10 | 10:24 AM
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I suppose this thread got derailed into rear vs. no rear brake, but a comment on the OP.

On your rear seatstays, right above the brake bridge, there are two screws poking out on the left and right sides. On my MTB, these can come out and allow you to bolt on some types of racks. Maybe you can do that to the Kilo.
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Old 01-17-10 | 11:26 AM
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The Tubus Fly uses a single brake bridge strut and overall has that minimalist look.
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