New wheel set
#1
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Cross Check, GT Outpost, Haro Z16, Trek 1000
New wheel set
So, I asked this question over in the mechanics forum too but wanted some FG/SS specific views on the matter too...
I'm collecting parts for a new wheel set and want to know if you think it will be strong enough? I weigh around 250 and have ridden deep-vs in the past due to my busting wheels. My current back wheel, however, is some random 36 hole Alex rim and has held up surprisingly well. I also plan on riding some track on this new wheel set too. I would rather not have deep-v rims if I dont need to. I have been looking at the velocity fusions as a happy medium.
My question is, if I were to go with the fusions (using double butted spokes) will I need to stay with the 36 hole or could I safely go down to 32 holes. From what I understand you can safely run 32 hole on the deep-v rims and 36 is super bomber. Also will I lose wheel stiffness by using the double butted spokes? Another question is would any of this work with Mavic Open pros (32 or 36 hole)? Or are they not suited for my size no matter what?
Thanks again
I'm collecting parts for a new wheel set and want to know if you think it will be strong enough? I weigh around 250 and have ridden deep-vs in the past due to my busting wheels. My current back wheel, however, is some random 36 hole Alex rim and has held up surprisingly well. I also plan on riding some track on this new wheel set too. I would rather not have deep-v rims if I dont need to. I have been looking at the velocity fusions as a happy medium.
My question is, if I were to go with the fusions (using double butted spokes) will I need to stay with the 36 hole or could I safely go down to 32 holes. From what I understand you can safely run 32 hole on the deep-v rims and 36 is super bomber. Also will I lose wheel stiffness by using the double butted spokes? Another question is would any of this work with Mavic Open pros (32 or 36 hole)? Or are they not suited for my size no matter what?
Thanks again
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
It's hard to compare wheelsets because the build quality is such an important factor.
There used to be a joke in the auto raceing crowd that Colin Chapman designed the Lotus 23 chassis by removing one tube at a time until it broke. Then he added one back. My advice is to build the Open Pros. If they break, you can move up to Fusions for your next build. Either way, you'll know for sure if they're strong enough.
There used to be a joke in the auto raceing crowd that Colin Chapman designed the Lotus 23 chassis by removing one tube at a time until it broke. Then he added one back. My advice is to build the Open Pros. If they break, you can move up to Fusions for your next build. Either way, you'll know for sure if they're strong enough.
#3
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
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From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
If your Alex wheel is still going strong I'd keep it as backup. Most important thing about wheels is to make sure the spokes are evenly and properly tensioned. Fusions or Open Pros will work fine; I'd stay with 36 spokes in 3-cross pattern and use some good hubs like Shimano. Use good quality stainless steel spokes and brass nipples.
Roadies go for these crazy low spoke wheels then gripe and moan when they taco them because one spoke lost some tension. I came up on a big rider in a charity century ride and he was cussing out his wheels because he'd broken a spoke for the umpteenth time. I suggested he ride the broom wagon in because his rear wheel was about to fold but he didn't listen.
He did end up on the wagon because he broke another spoke which tacoed the rim and caused him to crash. Road rash and a busted $1k wheel but at least when he first got the wheels they looked good.
Roadies go for these crazy low spoke wheels then gripe and moan when they taco them because one spoke lost some tension. I came up on a big rider in a charity century ride and he was cussing out his wheels because he'd broken a spoke for the umpteenth time. I suggested he ride the broom wagon in because his rear wheel was about to fold but he didn't listen.
He did end up on the wagon because he broke another spoke which tacoed the rim and caused him to crash. Road rash and a busted $1k wheel but at least when he first got the wheels they looked good.
#4
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Dallas, TX
Bikes: Panasonic NJS Keirin x2, Level Professional, Bianchi CUSS, GT Pulse
If 36h hubs/hoops are avaliable, take the extra insurance and at least build the rear 36.
Open pros are solid rims. Eyeletted and welded will increase longevity. Half of it is just learning to be a light rider.
Open pros are solid rims. Eyeletted and welded will increase longevity. Half of it is just learning to be a light rider.
#5
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Cross Check, GT Outpost, Haro Z16, Trek 1000
the issue is, is that the 36 hoops available are the deep-v rims... I'm trying to stay clear of them if I can. Thats why I was asking about the fusions in 32. The open pros were just hypothetical, wondering if they would work for me. I'm thinking of them for a possible future set...
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