fixed it.

Always, always, always get your lockring tightened after the first ride. You can tighten down a cog so much more upon your initial ride than you can with a whip-tool. You put all your weight down on that cog and it probably moved a millimeter into the hub creating space from the lockring that needed to be dealt with.

Also, by your account, you skidded and then hit your front brake? Meaning you had to have been leaning over the handlebars, correct? Hitting a front brake with that much forward weight is sure to throw you over the bars. Why did you skid? Why not just break? Even on a FG you could have stopped.

No wonder your drivetrain failed. You must have been going a decent clip and the act of putting on that reverse force on your cog in an effort to skid you must have started to unthread the cog.

Even with the cog unthreading, if you had just relied on your break as the main stopping agent, had you just leaned back and let your legs move with the pedals, you'd have stopped just fine.

I'm sorry you crashed, but if PB is going to do all that for you as reparations then I'd lighten up on them.

yeah, I have been thnking about it, and perforance is definitely going the extra mile. I talked to a friend that only deals with a high end lbs here in town, and he said they wouldn't have done anything beside sell me a new wheel. I'm not gonna say customer for life, but I'll probably be there for a while. And yeah, I tried to go into a skid, that didn't work so I leaned back and grabbed the brake, but by that point I was too late. I really wasn't moving that fast, as stated earlier, I had ridden a lot (for me), and worked 12 hours in a physically demanding job. I was cruising. If I had been in ss instead of fg I would have been coasting. Thanks for the help everyone. I know I'm new around here but I dig this forum. Lots of helpful people and constructive criticism.

Just double check that when you use the same Performance mechanic in the future, he's brought his glasses this time.

yeah he was wearing them when I dropped it off an when I picked it up. Everything is cool now. I don't have the $$ at the moment to get a lockring tool so I'm not riding fixed until I get one. Recommendations? I'm thinking about the pedro trixie. I like all in one things.

I too am pre-lockring tool at the moment. Last time I changed to a bigger cog I used some tools at the local shop. They had these: https://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1...ng-pliers.aspx, which were the absolute best at loosening/tightening the lockring. Any of the one-pronged tools just stripped the hell out of the lockring.

I don't know why buying a $40 tool is such a hangup for me, but I have yet to buy it for myself. The shop dude wanted me to buy a tool first before I could use any of theirs, which I did (chainwhip), though he didn't realize it was a 3/32" until I made many failed attempts to use it, at which point he felt embarrassed for his mistake and refunded my money. It was a fairly awkward experience.

The reason not to spend $40 on a lockring tool is that you're probably not riding on the track, and if you're not riding on the track there's not much reason to be changing your cog all that often.

Get one of the $12 combination chain whip / locking tools and call it a day. Sure the 1-prong things might not be as easy to use as the pliars, but if you're just a little careful with it they work fine.

The Pedro's tool is a decent for general home use. While you may only need to use it once in a blue moon, it's good to have the tools to maintain your bike.

I've always found that a chainwhip is not the best way to tighten a cog. The best way IMO to tighten it is by installing the wheel on the bike and standing on the forward pedal with the front wheel pressed against a wall. Then remove the wheel and tighten the lockring. I only need the chainwhip when removing the cog.

^ +1

I've used mine plenty of times and it works well. So yeah, it's good to have as just a DIY street rider

this thread is very relevant to my frustrations. yesterday i went to a very reputable shop that ive never had any problems with before. paid top dollar to get a new cog and have them put it on. a few skids later i can feel it slipping...got off and had to walk it home...

Like someone said before chances are the hub is shot from riding with the lockring loose and thus the cog free to spin on and off a couple threads, and probably stripped them. A good mechanic would catch this, an amateur mechanic would catch this. Sounds like your "mechanic" is dumb as sh*t and the store shouldn't be allow him to be working on peoples bikes if he is as inept as you made him sound. Go back and settle this with performance, you could have gotten seriously hurt or killed because the mechanic, employed by a large company nonetheless, was unqualified.

my home tool is a trixie.

See my post above. You always get more tightening action from some of your initial mashes on the pedals. Also, upgrade to a steel ring... aluminum lockrings are ****e.

the day after I picked up my ride I had a major accident. I'm just having a run of bad luck I guess... I was on the lakefront trail here in chicago, and at one of the crossings a car stopped as I was pulling up (the roads have stop signs, the trail has no signs or slow signs, depending on where you are.) and I thought the driver was going to remain stopped so I kept going. She pulled away from the stop as I got 10 feet from the car. Panicked, locked up the rear brakes, hit the front, still didn't stop in time and used my left shoulder and hip to turn her rear door into one big dent. A dislocated shoulder, bruised ribs, bent front rim, and 2 vicodins later I realized that my $20 bell ukon saved my life.looks like I'm taking a couple weeks off riding. In the meantime, I think I'm gonna get a new bottom bracket and maybe a crankset. I currently have FSA Vero cranks and whatever BB it came with. Any suggestions?

FYI, it took me 10 minutes to type that. I hate only being able to use one hand...

Dude...maybe you shouldn't be riding a bicycle.

Do you ride all year? At this rate you won't last till spring.

On the upside here's your shot at a matched set of wheels.

I see a new shirt in your future

scrod, my wife agrees. Dan, no I don't. I have actually only been riding in an urban environment for around a month. Before that I hadn't been on two wheels in about 9 years. I think I just need to get back into the swing of it. BB advice?

That sucks about the crash. I had a car almost do something similar tonight. They had a stop sign I didn't but they pulled up really quick and I could see the guy whip his head left and right really quickly so I figured he may not of seen me so I kept an eye on him. Sure enough he goes to pull out and does the whole fake pull out then slam on brakes thing. Well I'm thinking he's about to run me over so I swerve outward and almost got clipped by a car on my right.

I hate cars... and cyclists who use the sidewalk (especially when there is a bike lane along the street they are using.)

yeah, I had a quick decision to make: swerve left and possibly hit the car stopped behind her, swerve right and nail the lady pushing a stroller, or go straight and try to stop in time. Well, I think next time I'll take out the kid. On the plus side, I got my first night off work in 2.5 weeks, insurance is paying to fix it all, and my bag is gonna be replaced (old ampac that got the strap ripped off). I enjoy biking too much to quit because of a run of bad luck. There have been other things too, not involving bikes. September always seems to be the month that my negative karma for the year cashes in. I enjoy the freedom, the exercise, the community of it all.

So about the bike, what is it and do you know what BB it has? A common example would be 68mm with English threads.

• Are you in for a new Crank and BB or just the BB?

I see above you have the FSA Vero. Is it the Track crank with the 42t ring?

You should've went with the kid.



I kid, I kid.

Get a Shimano UN54 with something like Pake, EighthInch, Origin8 crank set.

If your looking for a better than JIS style BB the SRAM Courier is nice if your frame will take the cups. It's a much stronger spindle design that's self extracting with a single allen wrench, an 8mm IIRC
https://cgi.ebay.com/SRAM-S-300-Couri...item45f479afcb